Mountain Project Logo

Classic alpine rock routes in wasatch in winter?

Original Post — This topic is locked and closed to new replies
Mike Gagnon · · Rumney, NH · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 1,152

I mostly focus on sport these days, but also love getting on some more moderate alpine routes while I’m visiting areas. Have done a lot in Colorado and Washington, and all around the north east but never been to Utah so I’m psyched. Are there any south facing dry alpine rock routes in the wasatch in February?  Not picky on grades, but probably under 5.10 for the time being. Was looking at Lowe route, anyone know if that’s doable? 

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,129

That really depends on what you mean by alpine? It also sounds like you mean pure rock climbing in rock shoes? The Lowe's climbed a number of routes, but I assume you mean on Lone Peak?

If you answer those, you can get much more helpful beta.

Mike Gagnon · · Rumney, NH · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 1,152

I’m talking full rock routes in rock shoes yes. And I meant the 5.8 on lone peak 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Mike Gagnonwrote:

I’m talking full rock routes in rock shoes yes. And I meant the 5.8 on lone peak 

Are you into long approaches with significant elevation gain and lots of deep snow in avalanche terrain? At the elevation of the cirque on Lone Peak we've had 230" so far this year with a settled base right now around 100". So if you're prepared to deal with all that.......

Mike Gagnon · · Rumney, NH · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 1,152

I love long approaches, and have had aiare courses and am a back country skier. Maybe some suggestions for quicker approach climbs that are pretty accessible? 

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,129

As Marc is alluding, most of what you're after will likely be under snow (but with climate change, who knows what might happen by February). There is plenty of winter alpine to do in the Wasatch in winter, but it all tends to involve boots, pointy things, skis, etc. Summer alpine rock routes don't tend to come in until...summer.

However, if it hasn't snowed recently, nice climbing days can be had in Little Cottonnwood Canyon in February. Stick to low elevation and the north side (i.e. south facing) portion of the canyon. Pretty much everything from Bong Eater to the Gate Buttress and surrounds could be doable.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Currently this is what it looks like. Much of the terrain in this pic from Alta today is between 9500' - 10500' - about the elevation of the floor of the Lone Peak cirque.

This topic is locked and closed to new replies.

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.