New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #18

S. Neohwrote:

Same climb, different climber doing it for different reason(s).  In 1986.

Photo from Heinz Zak's collection.  He went on to solo it himself in 2005.

What a stunning human.

Today I just did a few laps of my usual 21 on TR. Working it with a young fellow, discussing beta. I have my very specific beta (I've climbed it hundreds of times) but today was introduced to new beta from another friend. 

I have a very bad back, my lower back muscles keep spasaming resulting in waves of pain... 

Bob Gaineswrote:

PS: 

On a little side note, both Ron Kauk and Wolfgang Gullich were hired as climbing doubles for Sylvester Stallone in the movie Cliffhanger. 

Wolfgang was hired after I showed Sly a video of Wolfgang in training, doing one-arm one-finger pull ups.

I attended an initial production meeting in Hollywood with Sly, Ron and Wolfgang. Ron and Wolfgang had been housed in a Hollywood hotel, fed 5 meals a day, working out daily with a trainer to bulk up to replicate Sly's physique. When Ron showed up, he was whippet thin, climbing 5.14, and I think the last thing he wanted to do was bulk up.

Wolfgang was more receptive. At the meeting Sly mentioned that they might need a little "supplementation," which I took to mean something administered by injection, but I'm not exactly sure what went down. All I know is that Wolfgang bulked up considerably to more closely resemble Sly's stature and ended up as Sly's climbing double. Ron was so well-liked by everyone that he remained on the stunt crew for the duration of the shoot, on the payroll for about 4 months, occasionally doubling for some of the other actors.

Great story.  Thanks for sharing!

phylp phylpwrote:

Hi Mike, I go there regularly. I’d be happy to climb with you sometime. Pm me once you get settled in. Phyl

Thanks - I will :)

Helen, between us we can select Mr. December, January, etc.  Perhaps all the candidates should submit their best entry pics... voting soon!!!  

Helen, I found this new video that contains very simple exercises you and I can do at home so we will be ready for that little inversion route in April.  Totally safe for old people.  You should get started right away.  (Disregard the title, this is totally AARP approved.)

Also... I had forgotten all about the virtual routes... just lay there and visualize (the route, of course!   )  

The below picture is not for us.  We would have to remove one of those weights...  but Brandt can do these!  

Bob Gaineswrote:

Barry was one of the climbing stunt riggers. He's just an awesome guy, and a great alpinist and guide. After being Sly's climbing instructor pre-production, I was the Chief Safety Officer during the shoot, in charge of safety for cast and crew, when we were on location in the Italian Dolomites. Barry knew I was like a fish out of water on the snow and ice and would laugh at me when I floundered in the snow, or put my gaiters on backwards. We got along great, and I have a lot of respect for his accomplishments as an alpinist and ice climber- one of the best ever. I'm glad he's recovering well from a recent traumatic brain injury.

Yes, a super nice guy with lots of interesting stories.

Mike Kwrote:

After having a great few months last summer in the Gunks I have decided to move from south FL to Las Vegas.  I just have to have outdoor climbing in my life!

I would love to put some names to faces and do a little climbing with any of you fine folks :)

I am also hoping to do a few trips over the next year perhaps to Zion, J-tree, Gunks...?

If anyone would like to climb please reach out here or on Instagram where I am Killfatmike.

Hey, Mike: sorry that we never connected at the Gunks last summer.  Hope your move to Vegas goes well.  Feel free to try me again next time you go to the Gunks.

Mike Kwrote:

After having a great few months last summer in the Gunks I have decided to move from south FL to Las Vegas.  I just have to have outdoor climbing in my life!

I would love to put some names to faces and do a little climbing with any of you fine folks :)

I am also hoping to do a few trips over the next year perhaps to Zion, J-tree, Gunks...?

If anyone would like to climb please reach out here or on Instagram where I am Killfatmike.

Yay on powerful decision!  We’ll practically be neighbors.  Let me know when you get settled in.. sounds like you have a pack of friends here who will get out with you, too!  

We had a really wonderful day out climbing today. We climbed  Arturo’s Special  and Tiptoe to Topanga. I didn’t find either route impossibly hard, just beautiful and sustained.  My new motto on this kind of rock is “Do more with less.”  On the first lap of the morning I’m thinking this cannot be climbed, but six hours later I’m working well with tiny crimps and divets and just in a lovely flow. 

I’m starting to apologize for being so drawn to this type of route but it truly is my thing, I guess, and I feel like I am in training to climb some of these others we’ve talked about in the 11s. But it is time to diversify and focus on some other kinds of Climbing, maybe get back to some crack climbing.

This is the first time in a long time I stayed out for 6 whole hours. It went well and my Whoop score was 17 so I feel like I got a good workout. We now have a rower and a treadmill so once I’ve had a little time with those I think I will feel more confident about more upper body type climbing. 

Tomorrow we drive back to Orange for Tony‘s surgical follow up and he gets his “balls removed“ .    These are the two tubes that section out blood and he’s probably ready to have them taken out now. Bless his heart he is taking all of this very seriously , and I mean no bending lifting and twisting. Of course that means I have to bend lift and twist but that is OK. I’m so happy for him and the care he’s had this time—the best doctors and very tender aftercare and I believe there are better  things to come. Thank you everyone for your support.

Lori, that's a nice looking route, where it is?

And it's so nice to hear that Tony is doing really well!!!!!!

Jan Mcwrote:

Lori, that's a nice looking route, where it is?

And it's so nice to hear that Tony is doing really well!!!!!!

Thank you Jan. I am happy for Tony. We have only been together a little short of three years and in that time he has had three major surgeries, so it must be love because that’s a lot for a new relationship to endure. So, I didn’t know him in his macho truck driving days nor when he grew up in a big Italian family on the southside of Chicago. But I know the guy has swag and I want to see it in full bloom… And especially I want him to have it for himself.

The route is Tiptoe to Topanga (10b) on King Dome. To the right quite a ways is Bob Gaines’ Mission Impossible which I still haven’t seen up close but between Tiptoe and Mission Impossible  is  some beautiful rock that I would personally like to climb.  I wonder if maybe there is a new route there possible. I just couldn’t stop looking at the beautiful face and hope to go back and see what it’s all about.   

went for  hike after work today. It's Winter Solstice  so naturally it was pitch black out. As a result my Christmas tree looks a bit funny   ;)

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

went for  hike after work today. It's Winter Solstice  so naturally it was pitch black out. As a result my Christmas tree looks a bit funny   ;)

I love this tree, Nick!  This is what a Christmas tree should look like!  Beautiful lamp hanging over... is this home for you?  A cabin?  This is a really happy tree.    

After 6 hours of climbing yesterday I came home, feeling fine, but then several hours later became suddenly sore, stiff, in pain head to toe.  My ribs hurt, my lats (why?), my whole body was misery and every movement caused moans.  Tony offered me his vicodin and wanted to take me to see a doctor right away.  I told him this isn't an illness, this is a workout.  

I wound up drinking some tart cherry juice before bed.  I think it helped a lot, even though the night was long.  I believe it was Guy who counseled taking some ibuprophen and a shot of whiskey immediately upon coming home from a hard day of climbing.     

I'm still looking for the formula... the 'recipe'... for before and after hard workouts.  Even fueling 'during' climbing days, because I have virtually no appetite when I'm out... and I think it probably hurts my recovery to not eat (much). 

Lori Milaswrote:

I love this tree, Nick!  This is what a Christmas tree should look like!  Beautiful lamp hanging over... is this home for you?  A cabin?  This is a really happy tree.    

After 6 hours of climbing yesterday I came home, feeling fine, but then several hours later became suddenly sore, stiff, in pain head to toe.  My ribs hurt, my lats (why?), my whole body was misery and every movement caused moans.  Tony offered me his vicodin and wanted to take me to see a doctor right away.  I told him this isn't an illness, this is a workout.  

I wound up drinking some tart cherry juice before bed.  I think it helped a lot, even though the night was long.  I believe it was Guy who counseled taking some ibuprophen and a shot of whiskey immediately upon coming home from a hard day of climbing.     

I'm still looking for the formula... the 'recipe'... for before and after hard workouts.  Even fueling 'during' climbing days, because I have virtually no appetite when I'm out... and I think it probably hurts my recovery to not eat (much). 

My suggestion would be to take the ibuprofen BEFORE the workout.  That way it reduces the inflammation at the start.  I've been doing that for years and find that for me it reduces/eliminates the need for ibuprofen post workout.  And after hard climbing tequila is the preferred fluid replenishment.

Idaho Bobwrote:

My suggestion would be to take the ibuprofen BEFORE the workout.  That way it reduces the inflammation at the start.  I've been doing that for years and find that for me it reduces/eliminates the need for ibuprofen post workout.  And after hard climbing tequila is the preferred fluid replenishment.

I'm a naproxen fan.  Ibuprofen wears off before noon   .  I want that 12-hour protection!  Seriously, though, it makes a HUGE difference sometimes.  Plus lots of water, a lot of healthy snacks during the day, and the best recovery drink ever - low fat chocolate milk.  No alcohol.  Well, maybe one post-climbing beer, once in awhile.  The days of just going out and climbing all day without thinking about fuel, hydration, and recovery are loooong gone.

The subject is running, but the observations about performing at advanced ages fit right in to the discussions here.  Racing after 80

rgoldwrote:

The subject is running, but the observations about performing at advanced ages fit right in to the discussions here.  Racing after 80

Thanks for the link. A wonderfully poignant and insightful piece.

Great read, thank you!

Excellent article. Thanks Rich.

Second chocolate milk, and, I've had positive comments from some really strong guys about it.

Lori, a really hot bath (or the hot springs at COR) is my go to, post climbing, or just whenever that heat seems like it would be nice. I'm short enough I can get most of me in there, though. A friend, long ago, custom remodeled his "bachelor pad". He had a large espresso machine, furs laying around ....and a Japanese bathtub. Sit down, in deep water, like a small indoor hot tub! This is long before they started marketing walk in bathtubs for old people.

Thanks for the read, rgold!

Here, we have an abrupt change in the weather forecast, from yesterday to today. The 10 day has 5ish days of wet and gloomy and cold.....then next week a BIG drop in temps. Single digits overnight, and not even January yet!

Maybe I'll finally get the inside painting projects going?

Or cheesecake?

Hmmm 

Have a great Christmas, all! I'm really missing the Channukah candles this year. They usually hit a little ahead of the solstice, and that's really nice, a 10 day ritual of light, in the darkest, shortest days. But, the vagueries of the Jewish calendar put it just after Thanksgiving this year. 

Being sorta north, though? The daylight shifting back gets noticeable fairly quickly. And, we have had January climbing days, some years. We'll see.

At least there's a ton of fun planned for 2022!

Best, Helen

EDIT to add, check out this! It's really inspiring!

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/121791597/forget-ondra-this-is-how-to-belay-you-chumps#ForumMessage-121792183

Tim Schafstallwrote:

I'm a naproxen fan.  Ibuprofen wears off before noon   .  I want that 12-hour protection!  Seriously, though, it makes a HUGE difference sometimes.  Plus lots of water, a lot of healthy snacks during the day, and the best recovery drink ever - low fat chocolate milk.  No alcohol.  Well, maybe one post-climbing beer, once in awhile.  The days of just going out and climbing all day without thinking about fuel, hydration, and recovery are loooong gone.

Tim

Jean and I are also a fan of Naproxen. 12 hours is better than 4-6 hours.

We usually take a single Naproxen when we climb at the Gunks. We take them in the lower parking lot before we head up the mini stairmaster. 

On our rode trip out west this fall, I believe that we only used Naproxen 1-2 times the entire 2 month trip. Our bodies do not hurt as much when we climb out west. We do not know if it is the low humidity or not that we feel better.

John