Best beginner route up Tahquitz

Hi friends,

I would really like to take my sister and her boyfriend (both non-climbers) up the summit of Tahquitz. They vacation a lot in Idyllwild, have only hiked in the area, but are absolutely fascinated by that specific rock. I think it would be awesome to show them how rock climbing works and have them stand on top of it.

What would be one of the easier but most enjoyable routes up the rock? (Probably 5.4-5.5, at the max) I've looked at things like "White Maiden's Walkway", but maybe you all have other recommendations? I'll teach them how to lead belay and multi-pitch on the ground/ practice on less committing routes before I take them up. I think it'll be fun to have a "big multi-pitch adventure" be a goal to work toward.

Thanks!

On the other hand, I'll be moving to Southern California in a few weeks and would like to climb with actual climbers, so let me know if you want to get out.

The Trough is a good option. The friction descent may be a little dicey for absolute beginners. Maybe teach them how to rappel before so they can bypass some of it. 

Either Fingertip Traverse if you're looking to get them on something exposed but easy, or The Trough for something just easy.

Heads up, White Maiden's has sort of tricky route finding, but even if you're hopelessly off route I don't think its harder than 5.7/5.8. If you're over there, the north gully descent isn't as technical but a huge PITA. 

The Trough would be good but I agree their crux will be the friction descent. Especially since you may not know the exact way... If you go on a Saturday/Sunday with good weather, there will be heaps of people topping out - I'd suggest following someone down.

I'm always looking for solid partners for Tahquitz/Jtree. I'll shoot you a PM

White Maiden is a good easy route with nice position and nothing too difficult. It can be tricky to find the easiest finish. It is rather long and can be popular. 

I'd avoid any routes to the left of WM as the easier climbs can have loose rock or not ideal for guiding a group of two very inexperienced climbers.

Angels Fright is perhaps not ideal, nor Fingertip Traverse. Jenson's Jaunt is a possibility.

The Trough isn't really that good imo.

The Trough sounds great. It's also the 5.0 on the original 5.0-5.9 routes, and one of my goals is to do all 10 routes, so it'll be cool to check that off! I could probably take them up that and see how they feel and try something harder/longer if they have a good time.

When is Tahquitz climbable? I know it snows or gets too cold in the winter. I'd love (personally) try to get one route in before winter hits it. I've only had the chance to do one route, "Whodunit" and I remember it being phenomenal, so I'm really excited to get back on.

Ry Cwrote:

The Trough sounds great. It's also the 5.0 on the original 5.0-5.9 routes, and one of my goals is to do all 10 routes, so it'll be cool to check that off! 

When is Tahquitz climbable? I know it snows or gets too cold in the winter. I'd love (personally) try to get one route in before winter hits it. I've only had the chance to do one route, "Whodunit" and I remember it being phenomenal, so I'm really excited to get back on.

Climbing the original 5.0-5.9 routes sounds like an interesting objective. Open Book is the 5.9 entry, but what are the other routes in the list?

Re: winter. The sunny stuff from Open Book rightward is great during sunny weather in the winter, provided a few days to dry out after storms. Check with locals for current conditions  The shady stuff to the left is generally too cold (and can be snowy or icey) during the winter. When those become good again in the spring depends on the year. Fortunately the sunny routes are great, so you'll have this to keep you occupied until then. 

White Maidens will be more of an exposed, rock climbing experience vs The Trough, which is more of a scramble up a... trough.  Crux will probably be getting them down the friction descent, if they are uncomfortable with exposure.  Bring gear and have a backup plan to deal with that, if it becomes an issue.  

The rock might get a little snow this coming week..  By this time of year it all depends on the weather system that moves through... could be fine for another month or more, or maybe not, depending on your cold tolerance.  May-November is generally really nice, if you can handle the summer heat.

If you do white maidens, I would have them scramble  all the way to the top of the rock, and then go down either the north gulley or down the Southside avoiding the friction route descent.

Regardless, it would be best if you were to climb some of these routes first to best gauge what climbs might be best to climb with two inexperienced climbers.

Given the current drought conditions, climbing at Tahquitz is definitely possible during winter, but it can be quite cool on the west and North facing sides.

The main problem with guiding two inexperienced climbers up Tahquitz in winter is the very short days.

JCMwrote:

Climbing the original 5.0-5.9 routes sounds like an interesting objective. Open Book is the 5.9 entry, but what are the other routes in the list?

• 5.0 - Trough
• 5.1 - Fingertip
• 5.2 - Frightful Variation of the Trough
• 5.3 - Lark
• 5.4 - Angel's Fright
• 5.5 - Ski Tracks
• 5.6 - Sahara Terror
• 5.7 - Fingertrip
• 5.8 - Mechanic's Route
• 5.9 - Open Book

From what I've heard, some of these are classics and some are total choss. Still gunna climb them all haha.

Randywrote:

If you do white maidens, I would have them scramble  all the way to the top of the rock, and then go down either the north gulley or down the Southside avoiding the friction route descent.

Regardless, it would be best if you were to climb some of these routes first to best gauge what climbs might be best to climb with two inexperienced climbers.

I probably will climb some of these, or at least more routes first to better get to know the area. I definitely want to make the trip as smooth as possible.

Kristian Solemwrote:

The main problem with guiding two inexperienced climbers up Tahquitz in winter is the very short days.

Absolutely true. Probably in the spring.

Sahara Terror has been the scene of one gory fatality and several major incidents due to loose rock. That thing ought to have a skull and crossbones sign at the start.

That list does look like something fun to do. Just watch your step on that Sahara Terror rig. Every other climb on the list is a classic at it's grade.

When are you planning on climbing with them?  If it's this season, as others have mentioned, it's going to be cold on the northern aspect of the rock, where the Lark is.  Route finding is also more of an issue.  I think your best bet might be Fingertip Traverse, which I think is better than the Lark if you're looking for a 5.3.  It's also shorter, only 4 pitches, so you can get up and down relatively quickly.  Plus it's got fun and exciting climbing for the grade. I'm not sure in what kind of shape your siblings are in, but don't underestimate the approach either. It's steep and punishes the unfit. I also agree with Randy that you should probably hike to the top and then head down the trail vs. trying to find and guide them down the Friction Descent.    

Left Ski Track!

It's on the warm sunny side, and the first pitch ends at a bolted anchor. If your mates aren't digging it, very easy to get back to the ground from here.

There is some light scrambling to reach the base of this climb, so you could use that as a warm up pitch to go over all the mechanics before embarking on the biz

^ Topout on The White Maiden^

The White Maiden’s Walkway is a beautiful climb, and if you go the easiest way, it’s easy 5th class. I free soloed it at age 15 in 1970, with very little climbing experience. You need to always be aware of inobvious route possibilities, in 3 or 4 places, and at the top of the route. It’s a classic, The Trough not so much.

The Left Ski Track is a classic and half the length.

I agree with the above. I've done all the routes in your list except Sahara. Left ski track is short and sweet and allows you to not have to do the "friction" part of the descent. White maiden was my first route up there and it does have variations on probably half the pitches. It is a good deal longer, and I agree, the trough is not memorable. 

I have not done the Trough, but I think White Maiden would be tough for an absolute beginner.  I was a little taken aback by the very first move of the route.  It wasn't hard, it just woke me up and wasn't what I was expecting for a route at that rating.  While WMW may be a better route overall, someone who has no experience is just going to love being up there at all, and ratcheting down the difficulty will make the day easier on everyone.  If they find it easy, you can always bring them back for a more challenging day.

If it is just the three of you, you need to teach at least one of hem how to belay and then trust them to catch a lead fall and not to short rope you too badly. Someone also need to clean the gear and not drop anything. They also need to simul climb following you, which is another incentive to keep the route as easy as possible, or you need to bring an extra rope. If you have not climbed at Tahquitz, communication can get really difficult over the length of a pitch.

Go in late spring and get an very early start.  Also, get up there with someone who can show you the friction descent.  You will probably have to set up at least one short rap at the top for them.

I agree that an early start is a good idea, to allow for 3 climbers and some route finding time, the belay ledges are good size for 3. The woman in the photos had only been climbing twice, and she was fine on it. Seems like we did it in 5 pitches.

The slab descent is slightly tricky to find and solo and it requires some route finding. It could be dangerous in the dark, even with a headlamp, if you’ve never done it. Same descent for the Left Ski Track, and The Trough.

Btw - those photos are shamelessly tilted to make it look steep!

White maidens all day long!