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Is this the future of climbing?

Original Post
Cron · · Maine / NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 60

Edit: Someone else started the exact same thread 10 minutes before me. Please migrate to that one!

I got a kick out of the Access Fund email I received this morning. Does anyone recognize the crag?

Can we play a game of I-spy with this photo?

Matt Carroll · · Van · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 287

Orange Oswald wall at Summerville lake

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756

Im not allowed to comment in the other thread? 

This is total BS. The access fund is operating like some political propaganda machine when they do stuff like this. They deliberately create an unclear message, allowing the viewer to imply what they mean. They act like this is some kinda dataset without providing any actual information. This is quite literally the definition of fake news.

Then this will get passed around by the crowd that perceives itself as protectors of climbing on social media. They will complain relentlessly about how climbing is being destroyed then turn around and do this exact thing. 

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

… deliberately create an unclear message, allowing the viewer to imply what they mean. .

allowing the viewer to “infer”    
the AF is “implying”

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756
Mark Pilatewrote:

allowing the viewer to “infer”    
the AF is “implying”

As much as a political candidate implies.  They fail to articulate the actual problem but imply they are going to fix it. 

Teton Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 1

I am already missing the 'Let's Go Brandon'  thread.

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285
Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

Im not allowed to comment in the other thread? 

This is total BS. The access fund is operating like some political propaganda machine when they do stuff like this. They’re  deliberately create an unclear message, allowing the viewer to imply what they mean. They act like this is some kinda dataset without providing any actual information. This is quite literally the definition of fake news.

Then this will get passed around by the crowd that perceives itself as protectors of climbing on social media. They will complain relentlessly about how climbing is being destroyed then turn around and do this exact thing. 

What exactly is unclear or informative (thus making it “news”) about what they posted? 

Unless I’m missing something it seems like they were genuinely asking are those crowds what most crags could look like in the future and, consequently, how will climbers deal with that type of traffic/wear on the environment?

I can assure you that photo is representative of that crag on any given weekend with suitable conditions, as well as another dozen or so crags found in the NRG (orange oswald and Bubba City) or RRG (bruise bros, and the shire come to mind immediately) and these situations are only getting worse. Roadside at the Red has undergone shut downs and limitations over the years in large part because of usage such as the photo above.

I’m genuinely curious though as to why the AF posing this question has such disdain with you? Maybe I’m missing something.

Matthew Tangeman · · SW Colorado · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,128
Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

This is total BS. The access fund is operating like some political propaganda machine when they do stuff like this. They deliberately create an unclear message, allowing the viewer to imply what they mean. They act like this is some kinda dataset without providing any actual information. This is quite literally the definition of fake news.

Idk, I'd say that photo is a pretty good illustration of the general concept of overcrowding at crags that they were trying to get across?

Mark Frumkin · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 52

It's an Ad! They want your money.

Astrid Rey · · Lake Elsinore, CA · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 0

Which people in that photo does the Access Fund want to not be there?

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
Astrid Reywrote:

Which people in that photo does the Access Fund want to not be there?

The people in hammocks on cell phones with crag dogs.  

Obviously ;)        Donate Now. 

Short Fall Sean · · Bishop, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 7
Astrid Reywrote:

Which people in that photo does the Access Fund want to not be there?

If they're anything like me it's the guys who wear shorts that ride up under their harness and expose their gross, fleshy thighs. (But to be honest I perused the Access Fund's mission statement and didn't see any mention of this, so I'm just spitballing.)

Beth C · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5

AAC: IS THIS THE FUTURE OF CLIMBING?!   

Also AAC: Come to Craggin' Classic!

e: confused AAC and AF. To be fair, I read all the climbing email spam around 0500 while I'm on the toilet.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,083

Beth C has a good point, one that really bugs me with the AF.  Out of one side of their mouth it is "The growth in popularity of climbing is a good thing, come to the craggin classic, etc.".  Then, out of the other side of their mouth comes preaching about reducing impact, concerns about overcrowding, etc.

Getting back to their question - i would say that is actually the present of climbing at some crags (and a fair number of multi-pitch routes as well).

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756
Go Back to Super Topowrote:

Unless I’m missing something it seems like they were genuinely asking are those crowds what most crags could look like in the future and, consequently, how will climbers deal with that type of traffic/wear on the environment?

I didn't get that email but I don't think the link leads you to asking a question, I assumed it was a link for a donation. In my mind it is the equivalent of political candidate saying, "Look at these people, this is a huge problem everywhere." Maybe... But it seems rather than using a picture of a crag they could list crags where access has been limited or both.

I can assure you that photo is representative of that crag on any given weekend with suitable conditions, as well as another dozen or so crags found in the NRG (orange oswald and Bubba City) or RRG (bruise bros, and the shire come to mind immediately) and these situations are only getting worse. Roadside at the Red has undergone shut downs and limitations over the years in large part because of usage such as the photo above.

On one hand the access fund is saying crowding is bad and on the other hand they are actively fighting against crowding restrictions. At this point either there needs to be user restriction or further support for developing new climbs. Everything else is essentially a Band-Aid for the problem. 

JonasMR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 6

I really hope they meant, "to prevent overcrowding, we need to spend more time and energy making more crags accessible and safe." 

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285
Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

I didn't get that email but I don't think the link leads you to asking a question, I assumed it was a link for a donation. In my mind it is the equivalent of political candidate saying, "Look at these people, this is a huge problem everywhere." Maybe... But it seems rather than using a picture of a crag they could list crags where access has been limited or both.

On one hand the access fund is saying crowding is bad and on the other hand they are actively fighting against crowding restrictions. At this point either there needs to be user restriction or further support for developing new climbs. Everything else is essentially a Band-Aid for the problem. 

To me listing crags with access issues would do no good. Maybe listing crags they have saved/helped from having access issues would have been a better route? Regardless I think posing these questions with the allusion that they will help alleviate further issues is a valid one. The AF has solved far more access issues than they have created in my experience. The amount of crags they have purchased in numerous areas is quite extensive if I recall.


As far as your last point, I think the AF does a tremendous job supporting development of new climbs and new areas…a lot of there money goes to new bolts, anchors, climbing coalitions, etc….so by donating you would be in fact contributing to the very solution you deem as being potentially successful. 

djkyote · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 0

Not Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17
djkyotewrote:

Best meme I’ve seen in a while

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

I really don't see a problem. Those people all deserve one another and there they are, all together.

Keep them there, please.

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52

I used to climb at Orange Oswald at Summersville Lake.  That wall and the small area do get really crowded though, I don't think I've ever seen it this bad.  My guess is the AF staged it... In the winters when the lake is drained you have a lot more room to spread out.

A lot of college kids go to this spot in large groups because the sport climbing is great AND you can swim between burns. So AF, if people concentrate in one small area it SAVEs impact for other areas. Don't you know anything about LNT?
--
Edit: I read the email... the photo was definitely click bait and the content wasn't really tied to the photo.  Still want to call the AF out for this one...  activist..  smh

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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