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Top Rope Access 5.10+ in Phoenix Area

Original Post
Victoria Lysenko · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0

Hey Guys! I am coming from Portland this weekend. I lead and TR. I am bringing my sister to belay me over the weekend. She has little to no experience. She knows how to belay on TR but not lead yet. Can anyone suggest TR routes or areas with 5.10+ routes with doable approach? Since she can’t lead belay, I need to something I can access from the back it’s way up anchors. 

Michael Palmer · · Scottsdale · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 57

here's some of the crags that have top access.  the weathers is great so its nice to be outside, but, expect to hike at least an hour round trip and spend a decent amount of time scrambling and  setting up in order to climb two or three 40 ft routes.

McDowells:

  • girlie man wall
  • morells parking lot wall
  • sven tower 1 or 3 (i've only been to 3)
  • glass dome (havent been)
  • half and half wall (wouldnt particularly recommend it)
  • crossroads wall (havent been)

from little granite mtn trailhead:

  • lost bandana wall 
  • the loaf

Pinnacle Peak:

  • Cactus Flower East wall
  • Loafers Choice slab
  • Chug a lug P1

Beardsley:

There are top ropes up the hill but you'll be a bit limited without a few cams. 

Lookout mountain: never been

camelback: could do the 4th class approach and solo tr headwall routes. never tried it. 

papago dog park (hobo house on mountain project): reaching the anchors via scramble is a little spicy.

bob ross wall at south mountain: could set up some top ropes on the lower climbs like the gremlins wall.  There are some ground anchor bolts along the top level you could probably use to get safely to the lip.

Victoria Lysenko · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0

Dude, super helpful. I appreciate all the information. Thank you so much!

J C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 477

Lookout Mountain is fun, and all the routes have top access. That said, I would not bring a non-climber/brand new climber there. Loose rock and loose scree approach.

Camelback also has Bobby's Rock. Routes aren't great or plentiful, but easy top access and easy place to bring your friend.

Cactus Flower East at Pinnacle Peak is a made to order TR crag. Mostly bolted anchors, but bring a #3 and 4, plus a rivet hanger/swaged nut (couple of hanger less bolts) and you can TR everything. 

Also at Pinnacle Peak you can scramble up to the top of Birthday Party and adjacent routes. Gear anchors.

Gregory Cooper · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 2,967

Lookout mountain isn't that bad of an approach. Haven't been there in a little while, but I doubt much has changed. Just make sure you are wearing proper footwear. There seems to be two approaches one is pretty unfriendly and the other is actually fairly chill. It's easy to miss the the chill approach if you aren't looking out for it. It's the first one you will come across. It starts near a drainage and a paloverde tree. I think the top is accessed on the far right side via a scramble. I've never done it though so don't take m word for it. I also don't think all the climbs are accessed from the top. You will have to lead some to make top ropes for others.

dahigdon · · phoenix, Az · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 195

trad or sport?

JoshW · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 6,541

Wear a helmet if climbing at Lookout, the one time I climbed there some non-climber hucked a huge rock down that landed a few feet from my friend.

Gregory Cooper · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 2,967

Ive had a water bottle nearly hit me there also.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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