NIAD is not a " real thing ".

A. B.wrote:

Again I started this post with mad respect for the athletes and what they do but having recently done the nose and seeing what they do I can tell you that they are NOT  climbing The Nose.

I think we now know what this is all about.  Sick send bro, or whatever it was you hoped we'd all say.

A. B.wrote:

Nose in a day climbers are, without exception, impressive athletic superheroes.

But, they are not climbing " The Nose ".

They are climbing El Cap via an alternative path that skips some of the best and classic features ( see The King Swing ). Certainly, they are not climbing The Nose route. Nor are they either free climbing or aid climbing, they are yarding on preplaced slings to bypass the original route and difficulty, and doing two separate traverses that skip hundreds of feet of The Nose.

So, I'd be impressed much more if these so called NIAD climbers were actually climbing the route and doing the moves. They are not. 

If you did not climb The Texas Chimney or do The King Swing, you did not climb The Nose of El Capitan. If you are pulling on sections of slings that are 3-4 feet in length and preplaced by others to avoid tricky aid placements, you are rad, but you are not climbing The Nose. You are doing some misnamed variation.

Such an iconic route should not be devalued by those skipping the difficulties and claiming speed records to climb on and around The Nose.

They are El Cap speed climbers.  They are not climbing The Nose.

Agreed. There's a certain lack of "purity" among climbers, if they get to the top they think they've "sent". Mostly just cheating themselves.

As soon as you start aiding you cease to be climbing anyway. 

Pulling on other people’s gear?  

I have similar issues with the ride the divide people and continental divide hundred hikers.  The both groups take a much easier route the the actual continental divide because it is easier not because of access issues.

Still all these achievements are impressive. 

Cherokee Nuneswrote:

They’re not doing the Nose aid route. They are doing “The Nose in a Day” route. Both routes as well as the Free Nose all climb the feature referred to as the Nose of El Capitan.

please refer additional questions to customer service of this website.

Can I do the 'nose in a day' route over 3 days and still claim NOID? 

A. B.wrote:

Nose in a day climbers are, without exception, impressive athletic superheroes.

But, they are not climbing " The Nose ".

They are climbing El Cap via an alternative path that skips some of the best and classic features ( see The King Swing ). Certainly, they are not climbing The Nose route. Nor are they either free climbing or aid climbing, they are yarding on preplaced slings to bypass the original route and difficulty, and doing two separate traverses that skip hundreds of feet of The Nose.

So, I'd be impressed much more if these so called NIAD climbers were actually climbing the route and doing the moves. They are not. 

If you did not climb The Texas Chimney or do The King Swing, you did not climb The Nose of El Capitan. If you are pulling on sections of slings that are 3-4 feet in length and preplaced by others to avoid tricky aid placements, you are rad, but you are not climbing The Nose. You are doing some misnamed variation.

Such an iconic route should not be devalued by those skipping the difficulties and claiming speed records to climb on and around The Nose.

They are El Cap speed climbers.  They are not climbing The Nose.

You're conflating NIAD with the Free Nose with Nose Speed Climbing and mixing and matching to make a frivolous troll post.

A. B.wrote:

No.

She did a variation.

She also bolted the pancake flake.

Stop making up stuff. She placed a couple of bolts to protect the 5.14 Changing Corners pitch; she did not bolt the 10a Pancake Flake.

At least I was told it was her and those bolt studs still remain as some sort of grotesque reminder of why people should not drill next to perfect cracks

And you took that as fact without even applying a basic sniff test?

Marc801 Cwrote:

You're conflating NIAD with the Free Nose with Nose Speed Climbing and mixing and matching to make a frivolous troll post.

Are we totally sure he wasn’t on “the Real Nose”

I mean it took him almost 10 days and 24 gallons of water 

Quinn Hatfieldwrote:

Are we totally sure he wasn’t on “the Real Nose”

I mean it took him almost 10 days and 24 gallons of water 

You'd think that a snowflake would know that they produce more water when they melt and should have factored that into their daily water rations.

If everyone knows what a phrase means.

And then you say "no no no, call it something else just in case people who aren't getting confused get confused!"

...then I don't care.

I'm just hoping the guy who posted about "Nose and the day climbers" sees this so they know what's really up.

thought this was a joke then I read your tr and puked

https://abraingutters.blogspot.com/2021/06/the-nose-of-el-capitan-grade-vi-58-c2.html

We now realize that many of the faster parties are skipping much of the climbing by " cheating " by pulling on bits of rope left hanging from bolts to bypass the original difficulties. In a game with no rules, where the ethic is basically that what happens between belays is nobodies business but the climber, this still strikes me as a certain level of bullshit. We are trying to climb the actual route, from the ground, with nothing but a topo map to guide us.

you were aiding 5.10

k rwrote:

thought this was a joke then I read your tr and puked

https://abraingutters.blogspot.com/2021/06/the-nose-of-el-capitan-grade-vi-58-c2.html

you were aiding 5.10

And?