Predictions: 15c in US?

J T wrote:

I can see Sean doing another 15c stateside once one gets established or gains some notoriety, but has Drew Ruana even climbed a 15a yet….?

He hasn't but he sport climbed significantly more when he was in high school and has sent 3 14ds I believe. He is in college and I think that pretty dramatically impacts his ability to go overseas and climb in ideal redpointing temperatures. I mostly think Drew and Sean stand a better chance at climbing hard outdoors since they seem to have a lot more exposure to climbing outside than the average climbing comp kids.

Being facebook friends with Drews' dad is also hilarious. Every god dam trad dad comments when Rudy posts in this weird passive aggressive way trying to somehow flex that Drew isnt doing real climbing/ or that drew isn't that highly skilled. Reminds me of mountain project. 

There are random walls around the country, which could hold the potential, especially if people are climbing 40-50m pitches. West face of Lions Head (200-250 feet)

Rumor has it some ladies also climb hard

The thing about Drew is he is in school in Colorado, where there exists one inconvenient 5.15. this is why he wanted to send every v12 and up in Colorado because that challenge is much more long lasting and present in his current situation. When he's done with college I think he will go back to more sport climbing.

Adam bloc wrote:

Rumor has it some ladies also climb hard

You have anymore input than that? Correct me if I am wrong but: 

Ashima, Brooke, and Kyra all seem pretty enamored with indoor climbing. Sasha has been injured and I have no idea what Margo is doing but she seems to always be in Europe. Puccio is repeatedly hurt and seems to vary rarely climb on a rope. Janya and the Japanese crew really don't give vibes of caring at all about outdoor climbing or even has the experience/desire to come to America and do it. 

Ashima seems to be the most likely to quit comps but she also seems to have a lot of non climbing interests as well. She also has the weird eye problem and I couldn't really tell exactly how that affected her climbing if a lot or a little.

Also, while not developers of sport climbs Drew is buddies with Paul, Sean B. is buddies with D woods, and Brooke is siblings with Sean R.

Adam bloc wrote:

Rumor has it some ladies also climb hard

Bruh?

Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

You have anymore input than that? Correct me if I am wrong but: 

Ashima, Brooke, and Kyra all seem pretty enamored with indoor climbing. Sasha has been injured and I have no idea what Margo is doing but she seems to always be in Europe. Puccio is repeatedly hurt and seems to vary rarely climb on a rope. Janya and the Japanese crew really don't give vibes of caring at all about outdoor climbing or even has the experience/desire to come to America and do it. 

Ashima seems to be the most likely to quit comps but she also seems to have a lot of non climbing interests as well. She also has the weird eye problem and I couldn't really tell exactly how that affected her climbing if a lot or a little.

Also, while not developers of sport climbs Drew is buddies with Paul, Sean B. is buddies with D woods, and Brooke is siblings with Sean R.

I‘m with you, there’s a reason females aren’t being discussed in this thread. I think females will be considered when they start climbing multiple 5.15’s. Margo is the only one I’m aware of that spends time in the US that has even climbed multiple 5.15’s, let alone 5.15b. Unfortunately men dominate statistically dominate this sport, even more so when talking about grades 5.14 and above.

I’m also curious, what does being friends with Paul (Paul who, cause Paul Robinson doesn’t sport climb), D-Woods (doesn’t develop sport routes), and Sean R (doesnt develop sport routes)…..

Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

Ashima seems to be the most likely to quit comps but she also seems to have a lot of non climbing interests as well. She also has the weird eye problem and I couldn't really tell exactly how that affected her climbing if a lot or a little.

What is the eye problem?

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

I’m also curious, what does being friends with Paul (Paul who, cause Paul Robinson doesn’t sport climb), D-Woods (doesn’t develop sport routes), and Sean R (doesnt develop sport routes)…..

I was unclear. I was more thinking about a media standpoint, like they are homies with people who make videos. Mellow would benefit a lot by having the first v17 and first 15c footage on their youtube channel and they have the skills to document it. Paul Robinsion seems also capable of documenting hard climbs. The rest of the females don't seem as connected with outdoor climbing media, though I am sure they could find sponsors the mellow crew seems to document in a way that favors hard projecting. Mellow also does have videos of at least empath, so they are not adverse to making film. 

J T wrote:

Edit: Forgot Seigrist, I'm such a fool. 

Jordan Wilson wrote:

Pretty sure Bibliogrphie got down graded to 15b.  

no it didnt

Brennan Vandyke wrote:

Edit: I'm an Idiot and how did I forget Seigrist. 

Brennan VanDyke wrote:

no it didnt

Stefano Ghisolfi suggested 9b+/5.15c. Not 9b, but down from the proposed 9c/5.15d. I think Stefano found better beta.

That leaves Adam Ondra’s Silence still up there, unconfirmed at 9c/5.15d. Would be really cool to see someone else make a run at it.

Jordan Wilson wrote:

 D Woods/J web/Mellow crew is not going to waste good conditions on a sport route when there is so much wine to drink and boulders to send, 

This is the problem right here. The top US climbers are all boulderers. It's like if Steph and Lebron quit the NBA to focus on Ice Cube's 3 on 3 league!!

J T wrote:

Bibliographie being downgraded to 15b is news to me. Kinda surprises me given it’s location and ascents. 

I could be wrong but, I thought Siegrist has done more 5.15’s than any American (other than Sharma) so I’d add him to the list of people climbing 5.15‘s long term. Especially how he trains.

Yeah, IDK where this impression that "any [American other than Steezy and Kinder] sending 5.15 seem to be doing multi year projects" comes from. Just to be clear, since the start of 2020, Siegrist has FAs of a 15a/b and two 15as and repeats of a 15a and a 15b, all of American soil. He also has 5 FAs and 3 repeats of 14ds over that time period... he's by far the most prolific American sport climber in recent times.

EDIT: Oh, I missed the part where they retroactively added Siegrist to that list. Carry on I guess.

J T wrote:

If they cared they would have filmed their boi Steezy doing bibliographie, which as you probably know is already 15c.

I assumed it was gonna take months to come out

 I think mellow has made it fairly clear they started their channel more for fun than publicity or to benefit them in any way. Their limited release of shirts is their main financial beneficiary I would assume.

I feel like mellow is there to establish the chill "brand" for climbers and then get them sponsors

Also, Margo is dating Matty Hong who is an accomplished videographer, arguably more so than anyone on the mellow crew. She’s also obviously already had an immense amount of media for her ascents in Spain and France in the 5.15 range.

Did not realize they were in a relationship. Yeah but I feel like women climbing media favors gym comp performances above all or at least recently. Other than Margo's movie I can't think of many cutting edge climbing women films. We got sleepwalker, la dura dura, bibliographie, and silence for the men..

Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

I assumed it was gonna take months to come out

I feel like mellow is there to establish the chill "brand" for climbers and then get them sponsors

Did not realize they were in a relationship. Yeah but I feel like women climbing media favors gym comp performances above all or at least recently. Other than Margo's movie I can't think of many cutting edge climbing women films. We got sleepwalker, la dura dura, bibliographie, and silence for the men..

I feel like the amount of climbing videos focusing solely on women translates equally to the amount of women in the sport. I think you’ve just focused primarily on men climbing. We have many shorts focusing on women and even a feature film focusing only on women in  “pretty strong”.

In terms of shorts like the ones you mentioned, almost all recent reel rock films have had a female focused section or two. Michaela Kiersch’s FFA of Golden Ticket and Emily Harrington sending Golden Gate a few years back all come to mind without doing much more research. It also seems that females from other nations are accomplishing far more outdoors (which is where most media is focused) than American females, with the exception of Margo and arguably Brooke and Ashima. 

Unfortunately there are far more men in this sport and thus far more people to film doing the newest, hardest things 

Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

I assumed it was gonna take months to come out

I feel like mellow is there to establish the chill "brand" for climbers and then get them sponsors

Did not realize they were in a relationship. Yeah but I feel like women climbing media favors gym comp performances above all or at least recently. Other than Margo's movie I can't think of many cutting edge climbing women films. We got sleepwalker, la dura dura, bibliographie, and silence for the men..

Melissa Le Neve got one in Reel Rock for Action Directe. Nina Williams got another for highballing. I’m sure there are others…? 

I’d love to see one on Laura Rogora, who seems poised to take a run at Bibliographie. 

J T wrote:

Bibliographie being downgraded to 15b is news to me. Kinda surprises me given it’s location and ascents. 

That's because it wasn't lol. People are confusing d, c, and b

Dan Schmidt wrote:

Melissa Le Neve got one in Reel Rock for Action Directe. Nina Williams got another for highballing. I’m sure there are others…? 

I’d love to see one on Laura Rogora, who seems poised to take a run at Bibliographie. 

I should have specified cutting edge conventual metrics, which only the action directe meets that threshold. I was more thinking this is the hardest route at this grade in the discipline. So for women it would be films like Margos. I feel like Nina, and Emily's films are cutting edge but in a different way. I am more thinking women climbing either v16 or 15a/b. Of the 3 women to have sent 15b the footage has been maybe a 6 minute film. Also if you just look down the wiki page en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_…(sport_climbing) a lot more feature films about men come to mind than women.