Gunks Antlion routes

Does anyone know what the status of the newly accessible Antlion crag will be with regard to publicizing routes? Will it be included in future guidebooks/on MP (like the rest of Millbrook), or more like Lost City (clearly established routes, but not published), or more like Bonticou (more or less choose your own adventure)?

Thanks to GCC and all the volunteers who are making this happen. 

I don't believe it is "accessible" just yet. Approach trail and other infrastructure hasn't been completed yet I THINK.

Mike is correct, the cliff is not open to climbing yet. 

I think there is going to be a Gunks App guide.

SethGwrote:

I think there is going to be a Gunks App guide.

This is the current plan.

But as others said hang tight it's not yet open. Subscribe to the Gunks Climbers Coalition mailing list to get progress updates and get notified when it is planning to open. 

There's a Gunks App for the Antlion crag currently listing 70ish routes, has instructions for parking (which you have to sign up for in advance), and a waiver that every climber needs to sign.  Enjoy!

Is there some other place that has the information about waiver, parking reservations etc, apart from the App?  GCC website still says the cliff is closed and I can't find any other information, despite hearing about the parking reservations from locals many months ago. I'm sure I'll get the App, I love GunksApp, but it shouldn't be gatekeeping access, especially for a crag that was promised to be free.

Ed

Ed - Great question and good point. I'll ask around and respond here...

I uploaded the Antlion area to MP late last month with the blessing of GCC chair Pete Cody. The parking reservation and liability waiver are in the "Access Issue" blurb that shows up on the top of every page within the area:

I also added the approach trail which is a GPX recording of when I hiked in a couple years ago. You can see it in the MP map view. The trail starts at the parking area and ends at the "Main Wall" area.

There is no gatekeeping... the MP ethic is to only add routes which you've climbed and can provide an adequate description of... so I only added routes that I personally remember enough I was confident to write up an adequate description... anyone else can feel free to expand with additional routes and areas :)

slightly off topic, but has anyone gotten on the route flying blind 12a/b? i’m wondering how it protects and any spray is appreciated!

Ben Bamfordwrote:

slightly off topic, but has anyone gotten on the route flying blind 12a/b? i’m wondering how it protects and any spray is appreciated!

Super good climbing, protects well with the second bolt added. When we we’re working it the fall was definitely spicier. Route name comes from the fact that both cruxes involve blind heel hooks… fun! Unfortunately don’t remember more beyond that.

Costin Anghelwrote:

I uploaded the Antlion area to MP late last month with the blessing of GCC chair Pete Cody. The parking reservation and liability waiver are in the "Access Issue" blurb that shows up on the top of every page within the area:

I also added the approach trail which is a GPX recording of when I hiked in a couple years ago. You can see it in the MP map view. The trail starts at the parking area and ends at the "Main Wall" area.

There is no gatekeeping... the MP ethic is to only add routes which you've climbed and can provide an adequate description of... so I only added routes that I personally remember enough I was confident to write up an adequate description... anyone else can feel free to expand with additional routes and areas :)

Nice, Costin! As someone who hasn't kept close track of Antlion I was super surprised to notice the Gunks Apps guide for it...I'd been wondering for like a year why there hadn't been any announcements about it from the GCC since the trail days, so it was weird to me that it has been open but not really announced. Still weird to me that they haven't announced it as far as I'm aware (speaking as someone who donated to the project), but psyched to see more work on opening it up.

Josh Swrote:

Nice, Costin! As someone who hasn't kept close track of Antlion I was super surprised to notice the Gunks Apps guide for it...I'd been wondering for like a year why there hadn't been any announcements about it from the GCC since the trail days, so it was weird to me that it has been open but not really announced. Still weird to me that they haven't announced it as far as I'm aware (speaking as someone who donated to the project), but psyched to see more work on opening it up.

There allegedly was an announcement regarding Antlion at the GCC bbq (I say allegedly because I did not attend) earlier this month or whenever it was. As for why the website hasn't been updated or why there has been no digital communication, feel free to speculate:

• The website/mailing list is entirely run by one person, they're busy
• The town of Gardiner has not yet approved the planned parking area due to resident concern(s?) of increased traffic on N Mountain Road (hence the current parking arrangements on private property) and the GCC is trying to be diplomatic by not opening the flood gates
• The GCC is trying to sandbag us out of pulling on some sweet sweet choss

In other not-yet-announced news, the Trapps falcon closure gets lifted tomorrow.

For anyone visiting Ant Lion -> make sure you cross the stream by the red chair and are on the correct approach path. When a partner and I went to check out the crag a few weeks back we turned out of the meadow too early and ended up way off trail, bushwhacking up a steep hill. Stick to the yellow blazes! 

We really enjoyed "Cloud 9" and "Antlion" proper. Some cool stuff there! 

According to Pete C., the GCC will eventually have parking registration and liability form info on their website so that you don't have to buy the app to register.