We present the new route, Selecció natural. A6 - 7A

when circus acrobats get too old to fly out of a canon, if they wanna stay in the big top, l reckon they become circus clowns

Jim Beyer's may have done some hard climbing, but he is a vandal of historic routes and should be banned from Yosemite.

He has little credibility and is, ethically, the worst climber in history.

William Kwrote:

So is this FA a real thing or an elaborate troll?   There seems to be no information on route or climber or than what he linked in the OP.   The whole thing does have a distinctly Pelut vibe to it.  

I spoke recently with Richard Jensen, of Wings of Steel fame.  He said the authors of the route asked him to repeat it and verify. 

"A4+: More serious than A4. these leads generally take many hours to complete and require the climber to endure long periods of uncertainty and fear, often requiring a ballet-like efficiency of movement in order not to upset the tenuous integrity of marginal placements. Examples: the "Welcome to Wyoming" pitch (formerly the"Psycho Killer" pitch) on the Wyoming Sheep Ranch on El Cap, requiring 50 feet of climbing through a loose, broken, and rotten Diorite roof with very marginal, scary placements like stoppers wedged in between two loose, shifting, rope-slicing slivers of rock, all this over a big jagged loose ledge which would surely break and maim bones. The pitch is then followed by 100 feet of hooking interspersed with a few rivets to the belay.

A5: Extreme aid. Nothing really trustworthy of catching a fall for the entire pitch. Rating should be reserved only for pitches with no bolts or rivets (holes) for the entire pitch. Examples: pitches on the Jolly Roger and the Wyoming Sheep Ranch on El Cap, Jim Beyer routes in Arches National Park and the Fisher Towers.

A6: (Theoretical grade) A5 climbing with marginal belays which will not hold a fall."

https://bigwalls.net/climb/Ratings.html

I mean with a site named "bigwalls.net" it must be trustworthy. 

James Mwrote:

I mean with a site named "bigwalls.net" it must be trustworthy. 

Considering it's John Middendorf's site, I'd say yeah. Although I've had discussions with John regarding aid ratings and despite the archive on his site, he conceded that the move away from the number of bodyweight only pieces as a function of the scale contributed to grade creep without any benefit and contributing to the average climber having to deal with a steep learning curve when moving from trade routes to obscurities. 

Fail Fallingwrote:

the move away from the number of bodyweight only pieces as a function of the scale contributed to grade creep without any benefit and contributing to the average climber having to deal with a steep learning curve when moving from trade routes to obscurities. 

Explain that plz-

For those of us sitting in the back row

that is some pretty dense verbage.  how IS aid graded nowadays--if its not the quantity of body-weight-only aid wierdness, combined with consequences and scarcity of solid pro per pitch, what is it?