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España advice

Original Post
Pasquale Verrastro · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 190

I will be spending a week in Spain at the end of November and I'm trying to figure out the best way to spend my time climbing. I'm torn between staying in the Finestrat area and climbing in the Costa Blanca region or spending my time in Chulilla. My vote is Chulilla, however, my partner climbs a few grades lower than me and is worried there won't be much for them to climb in Chulilla. I love the location in Chulilla relative to the climbing. I'm afraid if we climb in the costa Blanca ill spend too much time driving around trying to find crags. So I'm looking for some feedback from people who live there or have spent time in either area. I want to be fair to my partner but I'm preparing hard for this trip and I want to be able to push it as well and be fair to myself. Cheers! Thank you in advance for any feedback      

blakeherrington · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 1,233

Chulilla starts to be good/decent at 7a or 7a+. Even those aren't particularly common and tend to be crowded. That's more or less true to limestone and destination-worthy sport climbing in general though. I don't know of any major sportclimbing zone (at least on limestone) with many excellent 5.10 or 5.11s.

If you or your partner is maxing out at 5.11s, stay more along the coast south of Valencia and climb on Penon de iFach or some of the smaller scenic oceanside or ocean view venues with some easier routes in this guide:

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

How committed are you to the Valencia or Costa Blanca areas? If you have flexibility, El Chorro to the south, easily accessed from Malaga and it's international airport, is very concentrated with a great spread of grades and quality  routes, even in the easier and moderate grades. To the north of the Costa Blanca, the Sierra de Prades (Tarragona Climbs guidebook), while more spread out then El Chorro, still has a large number of crags in quite close proximity, also with a good spread of grades. Siurana is the best known crag there, but others such as La Mussara, Arboli, etc. are all within a 1/2 hour drive of each other. The area is about a 2 hour drive from Barcelona.

I only climbed Chulilla for a few days (it was very hot), but, while beautiful, as others have said, it is not great for those climbing below the F7s.

Short Fall Sean · · Bishop, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 7

I spent a few weeks in Chulilla and didn't climb anything harder than 7b (or maybe one 7b+), and that was basically all at the same cliff. The whole "it's only good at 7c and above" thing is overblown. Of course, you didn't mention what grades your friend is climbing, but I would say if they're limited to 5.10 then maybe go elsewhere. But if they can get up 11s and have fun doing that then Chulilla would be a good time.

M D · · Durango, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 106

Just tell everyone you are from Grande Union and they should get the picture.... Have a killer time!

Mirka Kova · · ZigZag, OR · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 120

But margalef is so dang awesome. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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