Conquest wedge anchors

Anyone have experience with the quality/longevity of these guys? I bought some cause they were about a dollar per bolt kinda expecting not amazing quality. https://www.fastenersplus.com/products/3-8-x-3-Conquest-Wedge-Anchors-304-Stainless-Steel-Pkg-50

Previously I've been using the Petzl 316 stainless but those are more expensive even with my buddy's 50% discount.

They look good, I like the long sleeve.  

I would not trust my life to these bolts.  No ICC ES report, so quality of the bolts could be in question.  Spend the extra buck and a quarter per bolt for some peace of mind.  Check out Hilti, Powers, and Simpson.  All three make quality stainless bolts are have some minimum manufacturing quality standards to maintain their certs and reputation.

I guess increased caution is good but it is interesting that it wasn't too long ago that we were taking whippers on 1/4" bolts and sheet metal hangers and now something strong enough to hold a small car isn't good enough.  Im sure there are unscrupulous underground wedge bolt dealers out there but if I were a company selling a product saying it is suitable for car lift installations and I wanted to protect my company from liability I don't think I would be selling them.  I do however think its a good idea to buy certified bolts, especially if you will be putting up routes for the masses.  Still I think you would be hard pressed to push a 3/8" bolt to failure in a climbing scenario.  

Maybe I'll send a few to the bolt busters before I stick em in a cliff. Kevin that was my thought, but yeah, next time I'll probably get the Hilti ones or more Petzl coeurs.

I tried some of these out a couple years ago when the price of stainless started going up. Bottom line, I didn’t like them. The machining groves on the cone were super rough which would cause the expansion clip to catch prematurely. Also, the threads weren’t lubed which caused the nut to seize up pretty regularly. Most reputable manufacturers coat the threads with a dry lubricant to prevent this, stainless really doesn’t like to slide on its self without some help.

Thanks CW that was the info I was looking for

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

I guess increased caution is good but it is interesting that it wasn't too long ago that we were taking whippers on 1/4" bolts and sheet metal hangers and now something strong enough to hold a small car isn't good enough.  Im sure there are unscrupulous underground wedge bolt dealers out there but if I were a company selling a product saying it is suitable for car lift installations and I wanted to protect my company from liability I don't think I would be selling them.  I do however think its a good idea to buy certified bolts, especially if you will be putting up routes for the masses.  Still I think you would be hard pressed to push a 3/8" bolt to failure in a climbing scenario.  

I disagree with this sentiment. I understand why you're not worried about a bolt failure in the short term, but what about the future of these routes? Lower quality wedge anchors will result in more spinners, which will become a headache for someone to deal with.....

Dan The Man wrote:

I disagree with this sentiment. I understand why you're not worried about a bolt failure in the short term, but what about the future of these routes? Lower quality wedge anchors will result in more spinners, which will become a headache for someone to deal with.....

Absolutely, that's why I said if you are putting up routes for the masses use certified bolts such as Powers or Hilti.  I wouldn't hesitate using them however for an area that sees little traffic.   Ive had spinners using Powers and Hilti wedge bolts and I have even had the head snap off a Power 5 piece 3/8" on two occasions when tightening them down and that was not using much force just using a short wrench.  That scared me enough that I no longer use 5 piece unless it's 1/2".   Also with wedge bolts, they either are a spinner when you first put them in because the collar doesn't bite or they are solid in which case they are likely to remain solid.  I have yet to find a wedge bolt loosen later on to become a spinner unless it was used in soft rock and in that case a 1/2" 5 piece should have been used to begin with or a glue in.   I have had the nut loosen over time but can't recall a bolt that actually loosened to become a spinner though I am sure it happens form time to time.     

5  piece  3/8th bolts end up being spinners that you can't tighten up.  Wedge bolts tighten back up easily when the nut loosens. the culprit is folks lowering after a lead. the rope pulls the draws upward when lowering which twists the hangers up and  unscrews the nut.  Steep  half pitch spurt climbs that see a lot of lowering should be glue ins.  

NEVER place non UL or CE rated bolts.  You are installing life support equipment. Take it seriously or don't do it.  

Daniel Chode Rider wrote:

Anyone have experience with the quality/longevity of these guys? I bought some cause they were about a dollar per bolt kinda expecting not amazing quality. https://www.fastenersplus.com/products/3-8-x-3-Conquest-Wedge-Anchors-304-Stainless-Steel-Pkg-50

Previously I've been using the Petzl 316 stainless but those are more expensive even with my buddy's 50% discount.

I can get you some 304 Hilti KB-TZ 3/8x3 for the same price as the conquest. If you look around, you can often find high quality bolts at a reasonable price, although recently everything seems expensive.

I wouldn’t use those. Not very scientific, but I’ve played with torquing bolts till they break, and the difference between high/low end bolts of the same size is startling. 

Peter Thomas wrote:

I can get you some 304 Hilti KB-TZ 3/8x3 for the same price as the conquest. If you look around, you can often find high quality bolts at a reasonable price, although recently everything seems expensive.

I wouldn’t use those. Not very scientific, but I’ve played with torquing bolts till they break, and the difference between high/low end bolts of the same size is startling. 

Oh really! Messaging you.