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SHORT Ice Screws

Original Post
Bryce Dahlgren · · Boston, Ma · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 216

Looks like CAMP has come out with a 7cm screw this season. They look pretty nifty but they aren't rated, neither are 10cm screws, but they must hold enough to warrant CAMP selling them. A sunk 7cm screw is better than a 10cm sticking out 3cm. What do you guys think?

https://www.camp-usa.com/outdoor/product/ice-screws/rocket-xs-7/

Francois Dumas · · Chicoutimi · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 0

Blue ice 10cm are rated. They have a wider diameter than regular screw, just ordered a bunch, can't wait for the world to freeze over. 

Bryce Dahlgren · · Boston, Ma · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 216
Francois Dumas wrote:

Blue ice 10cm are rated. They have a wider diameter than regular screw, just ordered a bunch, can't wait for the world to freeze over. 

Pretty sure they aren't. Looking at this document under 'Instructions' on the Aero Light's page it doesn't appear that the 10cm is included in the certification. Maybe when their steel screws come out that 10cm will be rated.

https://content.admin.blueice.com/media/files/EU-Declaration-100216-Aero-Lite.pdf

Eliot Hack · · New England · Joined May 2020 · Points: 1

(Top left) Blue ice is also coming out with a super stubby steel maybe 6-7 cm, the aluminium 10 is prolly stronger Than like a bd 10 cause increased thread area.
LL Biner · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 0
Shiraz N wrote:

I have the xs9 and like it. Places well. Makes me feel better (although I'm still really new to leading). I'm pretty sure there's someone on these forums who takes old bd expresses and cuts them down really short and puts new points in them for thin ice. 

I believe you're talking about Gunkiemike.

There was a Spanish company E-Climb that had a 5cm screw, the handle was configured differently to allow proper orientation in a fall situation

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687
Shiraz N wrote:

I have the xs9 and like it. Places well. Makes me feel better (although I'm still really new to leading). I'm pretty sure there's someone on these forums who takes old bd expresses and cuts them down really short and puts new points in them for thin ice.

I do that, as do a couple others I know of. Bryce hit the, um, screw on the head: a 7cm screw all the way in is better than a 10 that goes in 7 cm. If you want more security, place them in pairs. (I'd say half of the stubbies I've made over the last couple years were for people who bought 2. Or even 3. Sickos.)

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Sweet! Count me in!  I often have five 10cm screws on my rack. just imagin how stoked my partners will be when they see my rack is half 10cm and half 7cm :)

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Bryce, that thing looks just like a Petzle? 

Bryce Dahlgren · · Boston, Ma · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 216
Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Bryce, that thing looks just like a Petzle? 

Well they’re CAMP Rockets. I think I’m going to wait for BI’s short screws to come out next year (which seems more like 5cm based on what I’ve seen) since they will have 3 teeth instead of CAMP’s 4 tooth design.

Graham Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

If you haven’t used the Rockets, they are fantastic screws. FWIW… 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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