A trad climbing riddle

Sport Draw:

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Trad Draw:

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Alpine Draw: 

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It used to be that trad or alpine draw used to refer to a tripled up 60cm sling but with the skinny sewn closed loop draws now on the market the distinction has separated further.

P Degnerwrote:

The first piece he placed is about 4 feet to my left... He climbs a few feet more, and places a piece around a corner that I can't see.

Note that this is a pendulum fall.  Forces in a pendulum fall are much weaker than in a straight-down fall.  E.g. a 90-degree pure pendulum (from 9 o'clock to 6 o'clock) would only generate 3 body weights of force even with a perfectly static rope (assuming no slack).

(unrelated to the riddle - I'm only trying to prevent any erroneous conclusions of knowing what a factor-2 fall feels like)

Serge Swrote:

Note that this is a pendulum fall.  Forces in a pendulum fall are much weaker than in a straight-down fall.  E.g. a 90-degree pure pendulum (from 9 o'clock to 6 o'clock) would only generate 3 body weights of force even with a perfectly static rope (assuming no slack).

(unrelated to the riddle - I'm only trying to prevent any erroneous conclusions of knowing what a factor-2 fall feels like)

AKA "why playground swingsets don't kill children".

For everyone saying carabiners can't unclip themselves during falls

rocknice2wrote:

Sport Draw:

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Trad Draw:

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Alpine Draw: 

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It used to be that trad or alpine draw used to refer to a tripled up 60cm sling but with the skinny sewn closed loop draws now on the market the distinction has separated further.

This is what I've always thought. It's confusing when someone is referring to an Alpine draw as a Trad draw.