Gear you wish you never bought

greggryllswrote:

Petal attaches (I’ve had multiple get stuck)

These Attaches (and other Petzl screwlocks from this generation) should be recalled. They're practically a safety issue. Petzl's support sucks and they won't reply if you message them through their site but they _will_ reply if you send a message to `returns@petzl.com` (the same address from the GriGri recalls a while back).

W.R.T. BD headlights: I've seen the battery springs wear out on Spot from a few generations back. In general they're OK -- but I would highly recommend a AA-battery Zebralight (like the H53. The 18650 lights are great too but are way overkill for most normal rock climbing unless you're planning to epic)

Ry Cwrote:

Crash pad. Became obsolete as soon as I got a rope.
  

What kind of pad is it? I'd take it off your hands when I'm back in the area.

Edit: I regret buying  non bouldering gear. Kinda the opposite of a lot of you hahah

Kevin Mokracekwrote:

I drove a RHD manual  Land Rover for 15 years.  I flew to San Francisco to buy it and drove it home.  By the time I left SF I was pretty comfortable with it and like anything it just became second nature.   I really miss driving it.

Once you master driving ANYTHiNG in SF it seems easy elsewhere.

I've driven RHD in the UK and didn't have issues but it seems like an annoyance here. Glad to hear it didn't turn out to be. 

Mariah Williams wrote:

Can I ask what you didn't like about the vipers? I love mine for steep snow with small sections of ice. Bought them specifically for winter climbs on Mt. Hood and they seem right at home there. 

Mariah, I am sure they would work well for primarily snow climbs with small sections of ice as you describe.  I bought them for pure water ice climbs, I f have ound black diamond tools to be much more difficult to climb on ice with relative to other brands.  I think it has to do with their pick thickness but am not sure.  

I have not tried their most recent generation of picks so hopefully, they are better.  

I was done climbing with BD tools after I discovered in my Cobras that, after putting in new picks one day, the new picks had a few degrees of rotation/play in the head of the tool, even when the screws were cranked extremely tight. Pretty terrifying to discover on lead that I could rotate my picks a few degrees in the head of the tool with my hands! Explained why all my sticks felt really sloppy and insecure that day.

My BD Storm headlamp was terrible due to it being overly complicated to operate.  In any kind of mountaineering or climbing situation simplicity is key.  It didn't last very long because I forgot to take the batteries out while not using it, but good riddance.  I don't need to read an instruction manual to operate my Coast or Petzyl headlamps.

JJ Burnswrote:

My BD Storm headlamp was terrible due to it being overly complicated to operate.  In any kind of mountaineering or climbing situation simplicity is key.  It didn't last very long because I forgot to take the batteries out while not using it, but good riddance.  I don't need to read an instruction manual to operate my Coast or Petzyl headlamps.

Exactly. I had a couple BD headlamps that involve a complicated series of finger swipes to turn on and off. I can never get it to work right, especially with cold or numb fingers. I threw those things in the trash after the second time that happened.

My favorite headlamp is actually a PrinctonTec model. Bright as hell and totally reliable. 

Andrew Ricewrote:

Exactly. I had a couple BD headlamps that involve a complicated series of finger swipes to run on and off. I can never get it to work right, especially with cold or numb fingers. I threw those things in the trash after the second time that happened.

My favorite headlamp is actually a PrinctonTec model. Bright as hell and totally reliable. 

Totally agree! The last couple BD headlamps I had sucked worse than any I’ve ever owned. Complicated to operate plus terrible battery life. Great warranty policy, but who cares with such a piece of junk.

Now I use a Petzl Actik Core which DOESN’T suck. 

Andrew Ricewrote:

Exactly. I had a couple BD headlamps that involve a complicated series of finger swipes to run on and off. I can never get it to work right, especially with cold or numb fingers. I threw those things in the trash after the second time that happened.

My favorite headlamp is actually a PrinctonTec model. Bright as hell and totally reliable. 

I love my Princton headlamp, I have a tiny one I keep in my chalk bag pocket with a piece of paper over the contacts to keep it from draining.   

• Edelrid Adjustable Belay Sling. It is heavy, bulky, and far too specialized. A sling works better and is multi-use. It was cheap in Sierra Trading Post. Maybe I'll find a use for it aid climbing. 

 any sportiva shoes or boots. i have tried a few times but they are just too damn narrow for my feet... 

Andrew Ricewrote:

Exactly. I had a couple BD headlamps that involve a complicated series of finger swipes to turn on and off... I threw those things in the trash.
My favorite headlamp is actually a PrinctonTec model. Bright as hell and totally reliable. 

+1 on the Princton Tec headlamps. ^^ The plastic is certainly NOT drop proof, but if/when they break, PT sends you any parts, for free... to fix them.

To keep the thread moving, I had a nice Metolius Gear sling stolen... my reaction. Yep, oh well, next? In the few instances one needs to rack up on a sling (i.e. for a deep, tight dihedral (think Brail Book) just used a normal nylon sling and move on. 

Non locking hydro bite valve. By the time you notice it leaking all over your shirt... in a tight corner, your pants are already wet. 

BUFF. I am sure there will be rebuttals, but why make a multi-garment that should help absorb sweat, from plastic that wont absorb dingleberries? Overseas I had a stretchy cotton blend one that was killer. But stateside... the BUFF... not so much. (big sigh...)

Any multi-stage locking carabiner. Really? Great idea, but a two stage locker is all the redundancy you need... 99% of the time. And MUCH less of a PITA.
: - ) 

Great thread, keep em' rolling.

Scott Dwrote:

• Edelrid Adjustable Belay Sling. It is heavy, bulky, and far too specialized. A sling works better and is multi-use. It was cheap in Sierra Trading Post. Maybe I'll find a use for it aid climbing. 

Yep same exact purchase.  I've even carried it on a couple mutlipitches and still didnt use it.

All crag bags. RopeX has solved all of my rope and gear carrying problems, and it’s use as a bludgeoning tool means bears don’t F with me anymore.

Scott Dwrote:

• Edelrid Adjustable Belay Sling. It is heavy, bulky, and far too specialized. A sling works better and is multi-use. It was cheap in Sierra Trading Post. Maybe I'll find a use for it aid climbing. 

Seems like many people (me included) regret buying a personal anchor such as Metolius PAS, Edelrid Belay Sling or Petzl Connect. I personally dislike the clutter on my harness - I could carry two more pieces of pro instead!

When I sport climb single pitch and want to go in direct I normally just clip in with one or two quickdraws. When trad climbing or multi pitching I generally use the rope. Those of you who eschew personal anchors - what method do you use instead?

Mike Lofgrenwrote:

All crag bags. RopeX has solved all of my rope and gear carrying problems, and it’s use as a bludgeoning tool means bears don’t F with me anymore.

What's RopeX?

Not Hobo Greg wrote:

I wish these weren’t produced because anyone who really gets into climbing is gonna get a guide ATC eventually rendering the nonguide one useless. 

True in a way, however I use an ATC Sport for top rope gym climbing. In my local gym a lot of the ropes are so fat that ATC Guides and especially Alpine Guides suck for taking in and paying out slack.

-My first ice axe. It's actually more of a ski touring axe and it's way too light but I bought it because I thought it would make me look badass and it was cheap. 

-I bought a second-hand pair of La Sportiva Nepal Tops in a size too large, because La Sportiva is supposed to be tiny. It actually made me think I couldn't wear La Sportiva's for a while but it turns out it was just a size issue. Sold them after one blister filled tour and now I own a pair of Nepal Treks that I use for pretty much all summer alpine stuff without pain.

-Any softshell jacket with just one chest pocket. I've given a couple of them a try and so far sold them all except for ME Squall. That little thing is awesome. 

-Non GTX Salomon hiking boots. I thought using non GTX for summer hiking would be a good idea but Salomon uses a particular synthetic lining that make my feet and the boot smell like ASS. Still use 'em though, they're quite comfy. 

ATC with Guide. 

this might be controversial but i tried to use a rope bag but just can't manage to stick with it. yes the tarp would be nice sometimes but it just dosent fit my style. we often top out in which case the rope gets  coiled and backpacked. get back to the base of the cliff and gather up the rope bag, stuff it in the pack and carry it home. next time out the rope is allready coiled and the rope bag is not nessicary so its been hanging in the gear room for about 15 years.... 

Mats Cwrote:

What's RopeX?

Judging from the description, this abomination: 

(Edit: I stand corrected, see other thread. "Abomination" still fits)