The Nose hauling question

I'm looking to do the nose next spring, and am leaning toward fixing at sickle and hauling in the morning. There were mentions about doing 3 60m's tied together then throwing the ropes down and I was wondering, this just doesn't seem right? Does anyone have some beta for what they did going into the nose? I feel like hauling up those first 5 pitches is going to suck. One other person mentioned hauling up each of the raps, just curious on the take. 

Alex Langfieldwrote:

I'm looking to do the nose next spring, and am leaning toward fixing at sickle and hauling in the morning. There were mentions about doing 3 60m's tied together then throwing the ropes down and I was wondering, this just doesn't seem right? Does anyone have some beta for what they did going into the nose? I feel like hauling up those first 5 pitches is going to suck. One other person mentioned hauling up each of the raps, just curious on the take. 

There are 3x single rope 60m rappels. Fix each rope and rap down transferring at the rappel anchors. Ascend the 3 ropes the following day. 

Ascend the first rope with your haul bag fixed to this same line, transfer onto the anchor, haul and then transfer onto the 2nd rope, repeat this process and either drop your third rope to the ground for a friend to grab or pack into your haul bag. Your second rope is now your dedicated haul line. Ascend third rope which will now be your lead line. Does that make sense?

I'd recommend hauling after you fix to get a jump on the day when you start. To sickle without bags is easy and starting the day with a 400 foot haul sucks. What doesn't seem right about the tied together 3x60 haul? Then you can haul the whole thing from sickle after you fix. I think it also goes on two 70s tied together but I might be misremembering.

Russell Houghtenwrote:

There are 3x single rope 60m rappels. Fix each rope and rap down transferring at the rappel anchors. Ascend the 3 ropes the following day. 

Ascend the first rope with your haul bag fixed to this same line, transfer onto the anchor, haul and then transfer onto the 2nd rope, repeat this process and either drop your third rope to the ground for a friend to grab or pack into your haul bag. Your second rope is now your dedicated haul line. Ascend third rope which will now be your lead line. Does that make sense?

Yeah that makes total sense, if you throw your third down, you just throw one down and bring one static and dynamic 60m each then? To respond to the 3 tied together jug, I've just never done that before it seems wild, 3 overhands? or you go for the double fishermans on jugging lines like that?

On your method russel, you just fix at each rappel and just rappel from sickle then? 3 separate jugs.

You can haul from the ground through Pine Line. Its perfectly fine. Just watch the rope eating flake on the pitch to Sickle. It’ll save you a lot of time from having to go down to hook up after Sickle and then hauling 600 feet. If you’ve got a heavy pig, then maybe its better to do the 600 foot haul by space haul or 2:1 if you must. 

Alex Langfieldwrote:

Yeah that makes total sense, if you throw your third down, you just throw one down and bring one static and dynamic 60m each then? To respond to the 3 tied together jug, I've just never done that before it seems wild, 3 overhands? or you go for the double fishermans on jugging lines like that?

On your method russel, you just fix at each rappel and just rappel from sickle then? 3 separate jugs.

Exactly, doesn’t need to be static for the haul, can be another climbing rope(pros and cons to each) 

Yep, 3 separate single strand rappels. You would then jug and haul 3 separate times

Russell Houghtenwrote:

Exactly, doesn’t need to be static for the haul, can be another climbing rope(pros and cons to each) 

Yep, 3 separate single strand rappels. You would then jug and haul 3 separate times

Sick thanks man, I've always thought that you didn't want to jug on your lead line cause of damage and stuff. 

Alex Langfieldwrote:

Sick thanks man, I've always thought that you didn't want to jug on your lead line cause of damage and stuff. 

If you currently think this, you have a lot of work to do before spring. 

Adam Flemingwrote:

If you currently think this, you have a lot of work to do before spring. 

I mean, you will wear it down a hell of a lot faster doing that. Not gonna wreck your rope in one wall though most likely.

John Clarkwrote:

I mean, you will wear it down a hell of a lot faster doing that. Not gonna wreck your rope in one wall though most likely.

I’ve wrecked (the end of) a rope jugging in it a single time! Learned the hard way to pay more attention to the rope running over edges.

Jeebus... this is why... everything... idk what to say...

Please do something besides the nose as your first real wall. It's been said a million times before, and it applies to you as well.

Alex Langfieldwrote:

Sick thanks man, I've always thought that you didn't want to jug on your lead line cause of damage and stuff. 

how else were you planning on climbing the nose? follower top ropes every pitch?

Alex Langfieldwrote:

Sick thanks man, I've always thought that you didn't want to jug on your lead line cause of damage and stuff. 

Your ropes will take a beating but it’s fine. I used an old climbing rope for my haul and a had a new climbing rope for our lead/following line. As others suggested doing an easier/smaller wall will help your chances of success on the nose. The south face of Washington column is much easier, you should try that and see how you do. 

Alex Langfieldwrote:

Sick thanks man, I've always thought that you didn't want to jug on your lead line cause of damage and stuff. 

I’m sorry but this comment shows a serious lack of knowledge of wall climbing techniques. The Nose, as crowded as it is, isn’t the place to learn to wall climb. 

Russell Houghtenwrote:

Your ropes will take a beating but it’s fine. I used an old climbing rope for my haul and a had a new climbing rope for our lead/following line. As others suggested doing an easier/smaller wall will help your chances of success on the nose. The south face of Washington column is much easier, you should try that and see how you do. 

Between now and the nose I have 4 smaller walls planned including Washington column and west face. Thanks for the constructive criticism Russel. I've climbed thousands of routes on gear, just never aided big wall. If you're interested in educating people, feel free to message me I'm always open to constructive criticism. 

Alex Langfieldwrote:

Between now and the nose I have 4 smaller walls planned including Washington column and west face. Thanks for the constructive criticism Russel. I've climbed thousands of routes on gear, just never aided big wall. If you're interested in educating people, feel free to message me I'm always open to constructive criticism. 

Alex what people are trying to say, is that you have no business asking about Nose beta, if you currently think that you “aren’t supposed to jug on your lead line.”  

It’s cool to be stoked this far in advance, but you really should focus on learning basic wall technique. YGD

The lower part of the Nose is low-angled. Hauling one heavy pig can be brutal. I suggest hauling two smaller ones. Be sure to pack them so the inevitable abrasion doesn’t cause too much damage. 

Before attempting my first wall I read Andy Kirkpatrick's aid climbing book cover to cover...seemed like a lot of information at the time, some of which i may never use (Russian aider systems, etc.) but it really helped me wrap my mind around different systems, safety, things to think about, etc. After reading a book like that, then scouring forums like this one really helped me understand what people were talking about and further understand specific systems (like docking the bag, hauling, etc.). But then nothing compares to actually going out and putting the knowledge to use. Even just aiding a single pitch will reveal how complicated and foreign these systems are when all you've done is free climbing. There is no need to try and learn these systems on a big wall, but rather practice them first. Then when you are able to understand each system (leading, following, hauling, etc.) and execute them smoothly, you can go try a wall and have fun rather than be overwhelmed by the process.  

George Bracksieckwrote:

The lower part of the Nose is low-angled. Hauling one heavy pig can be brutal. I suggest hauling two smaller ones. Be sure to pack them so the inevitable abrasion doesn’t cause too much damage. 

Wait-

Are you suggesting 2 individual hauls? And carrying 2 separate haul lines?

Or are you suggesting that 2 lighter bags connected to one haul line creates less friction? 

Quinn Hatfieldwrote:

Wait-

Are you suggesting 2 individual hauls? And carrying 2 separate haul lines?

Or are you suggesting that 2 lighter bags connected to one haul line creates less friction? 

Two individual hauls with two separate haul lines. Eventually, you’ve consumed, collapsed, and consolidated, such that everything fits into one bag. 

George Bracksieckwrote:

Two individual hauls with two separate haul lines. Eventually, you’ve consumed, collapsed, and consolidated, such that everything fits into one bag. 

That seems unnecessary