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Hypothetical question: Continuous bolt ladder vs spaced out bolts, bat hooking in between, resulting in the need for a cheater stick?

Original Post
A. Roberts · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,135

Years ago I led the summit pitch on a 400' desert tower FA (AmazonTower) and came across a blank section for the last 25-30". We had limited bolts left and were using a hand drill. To get up the last bit I would drill a bolt followed by one or two shallow holes where I pounded in a pecker, and then I'd put in another bolt. By doing this I think I used 3 or 4 bolts as opposed to 7 or 8 that I would have had to. I don't think it's been repeated but to climb it now you would need a cheater stick to reach the bolts. If you came across a similar situation today and you had a power drill and plenty of bolts, would you just do a continuous bolt ladder, or would it be ok to equip the route like I had to do years ago, with spaced out bolts and the need for a cheater stick? I already know by having "bolt ladder", and "cheater stick" in the Topic Title that I am going to hear plenty of harsh opinions, don't worry I have thick skin (and don't really give a shit :). I am still interested in everyone's opinion on the matter. Thanks

Jake Messner · · NorCal · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 184

Couldn't someone repeating the route just bat hook in the shallow holes you drilled? I don't understand why they'd need a cheater stick. 

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

I would much prefer the bolt ladder.  The cheater stick option becomes terrifying as the bolt ages, and if repeat ascenders don't know about it they have to drill or bail.  Bathook holes aren't sustainable in soft desert sandstone.

I ran into a situation like this on the Forward Lookout Tower in Mee Canyon.  I was absolutely sure it was going to be a first ascent since i had scoped it extensively with binoculars and saw no signs of anchors.  After 2 virgin pitches we found an anchor at the base of the third pitch, so it appeared someone had been up there after all.  On the final pitch, I did a really frightening attempt to free climb around a blank section before finding an old empty bolt hole.  We debated a bit and felt weird about it, but we ended up drilling a short ladder.  At the summit, we found webbing tied around a tiny arch that was bleached as white as the rock - hence why i had never seen an anchor up there.  That arch was tiny and made of sugar rock so we ended up adding a bolted rap anchor to get off.

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645

For sure, you should add the missing bolts that you would have added on the 1st  I ascent if you had brought enough.

I think needing a cheat stick on a bolt ladder would be lame. And bathooks are not sustainable. 

There are a few routes on El Cap which have a cheat stick on the gear list, but you put a hook on the end. ;)

Examples: Lovetron on Scorched Earth, Tequila Straw on Disorderly Conduct

J C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 477

Given what I've read about the route Look Out, Danger and several Beyer routes in the desert, I wouldn't lose sleep over what you did. If you are trying to turn your FA into a popular trade route, might wanna go for the bolt ladder, but I think sandstone towers are a good place for shenanigans. 

Zamacs place well in soft rock.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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