How to report bad bolts?

During a multi-pitch climb on the Apron in Yosemite (Cold Fusion), I found the belay anchors to be extremely rusted.  So much so that rust flakes were dribbling out from under at least one hanger.  I hit the safeclimbing.org website to see if I could request replacement, and all I found was lots of links to donate...but not a single link to report bad bolts. I know the ASCA has done a lot of work replacing bolts in the past and that they run off of donations, but it seems very odd that all you can do now is give them money, not request replacement. Anyone know how to request replacement of bad bolts?

Go back up there and replace them yourself

You could send them a request at donate@safeclimbing.org.

Edit: ASCA provides the hardware; they don't replace bolts. They provide the hardware to locals that do the job (although I'm sure Greg has personally replaced many bolts).  Since there isn't a Yosemite climber's coalition that I am aware of, it's up to individuals to replace the bolts. Still, wouldn't hurt to ask them about specific needs. ASCA probably knows the right people to do the replacements.

ASCA is not in the business of replacing bad hardware - they support replacement of bad hardware by providing bolts to people who do that work. 

I've been seeing a lot more 'who do I report bad bolts to so they can be fixed' questions lately, and it does make me wonder what people expect. There is no bolt fairy and bolts aren't free. Bolt replacement is done by dedicated volunteers on an individual basis or through Local Climbing Organizations.

Find out who the LCO is (or who the individuals are that do this work out of the goodness of their hearts) in your area, and donate to them! Also donate to ASCA! 

Edit - Frank updated while I was typing. Also, Greg Barnes at ASCA will know who to contact for Yosemite.

Chris and Freda,

Were all three anchors bad and how were the protection bolts on the pitches?

Also, do you recall the size and type of bolt?  It makes it way better to know before hand what tools will be needed.

Thanks,

Roger Brown.

Yosemite asca bolt replacer 

Thanks everyone for your responses. I spent quite a bit of time on the ASCA website and elsewhere to see if I could replace them myself before I posted and, frankly, it is obviously not a task for the uninitiated - regardless of pph213’s advice. Roger, all three anchors are not very good, although the third one (on the ledge leading from the upper part of MM Slab) seems to be significantly worse than the other two. The anchors are the type of bolt with threads and a nut, but I couldn’t say what diameter. I would guess 1/4”, but that is just a guess. They have rusty chains tied together with a chain link - the type that you pound on to ‘close’ - for the rope. Oddly enough, although the bolts on the route are a mix of types - including some button heads if I recall correctly- they seemed much less deteriorated than the belay stations.

I can see that I need to pay closer attention the next time I find sketchy hardware if I’m going to ask for help with it.

Talking about sketchy hardware; the last of the ‘main line’ belay stations on Royal Arches (the ‘alternate’ between Supertopo’s #8 and #9) has one bolt with this sketchy little two-hole tab of metal, spinning on what looks to be a 1/4” bolt (standard head - not a nut) and the other is a regular bolt/hanger but rusted pretty good. We rappel with just a single rope so we use this belay station - but it really makes us nervous. I’ve got a picture of that one if you’d like (and if I can figure out how to ‘post’ a picture). 

Hi Chris & Freda, for now you can simply email me at greg@safeclimbing, we recently did a complete revamp of the website and we are slowly building functionality - a reporting bad bolts section is coming. Most of the time I'll  forward the report to a local rebolter or Local Climbing Organization that has active replacement volunteers (or even a formal replacement program), and if there's no one local I can often find someone who might be traveling through.

It can be really useful to take a close-up photo of the bolt(s) to help rebolters determine the likely bolt types. That helps determine the tools needed and the priority for each bolt. Obviously in this case anchors are the priority - whether they are 1/4" or 3/8", if rust flakes are falling out from under the hanger, that's a big red flag.

Please do post that photo of the belay station on Royal Arches if you can!

Below are the pics of the Royal Arches anchor; one picture showing both bolts then closeups of each. I apologize for not getting pictures of the anchors on Cold Fusion. We’re in the Valley for the rest of the week, so we’ll try to get back over to the apron and get a picture of at least the top anchor. 

Chris and Fredawrote:

Below are the pics of the Royal Arches anchor; one picture showing both bolts then closeups of each. I apologize for not getting pictures of the anchors on Cold Fusion. We’re in the Valley for the rest of the week, so we’ll try to get back over to the apron and get a picture of at least the top anchor.

That shit looks in most definitely serviceable condition.  

Geezus that would hold my truck.

Yeah, that looks better than a majority of stuff I've rapped off that wasn't roadside 

Those are both 3/8" 5-pieces (no longer made in non-stainless), and they are fine. The left hanger is a Pika (I think), not the greatest but not a Leeper or a thin SMC.

Anyway, no worries about that anchor, maybe worry after another couple decades of rusting. Most of the sport climbs in the Valley have those bolts but they are much older - I think the ones in your photo were added in early 2000's, while many Valley sport routes have the same bolts from around 1989-93 or so.

Greg Barneswrote:

Those are both 3/8" 5-pieces (no longer made in non-stainless), and they are fine. The left hanger is a Pika (I think), not the greatest but not a Leeper or a thin SMC.

Anyway, no worries about that anchor, maybe worry after another couple decades of rusting. Most of the sport climbs in the Valley have those bolts but they are much older - I think the ones in your photo were added in early 2000's, while many Valley sport routes have the same bolts from around 1989-93 or so.

That is the straiight scoop. Not the best but far from dangerous.

Plated washers and nuts tend to not be plated so well. A rusty washer is just a rusty washer. 

Those rings look to be hollow aluminum SMC. They should be replaced with a steel ring or chain link. Anyone can do that if the quick link will loosen.

I climbed Cold Fusion not too long ago and don’t remember any sketchy bolts. 

Thanks, Greg. I appreciate you taking the time to review these pictures and evaluating the bolts. 

Salamanizer Skiwrote:

I climbed Cold Fusion not too long ago and don’t remember any sketchy bolts. 

I agree; the bolts seem OK. It is the rust dribbling out from under the left bolt of the top belay station that caused my concern. Perhaps I’m over-reacting like on the Royal Arches belay station? In any case, I’m afraid I’m not planning on using that belay station again unless/until it is replaced. 

Greg, you are a hero. Thanks for everything you do with the ASCA! I agree that replacing bolts should be done by folks who know what they're doing. To piggyback of Erika's comment, the best way to help is to contact a local climbing coalition and donate regularly both to them and to the ASCA. Beyond the cost of the bolts, the people who go work on these things are using their free days where they could be climbing to thanklessly replace hardware for the rest of us. That work deserves both more recognition and more funding! 

Bumping this thread as I just added an unsafe hardware reporting page to the ASCA site. It is accessible from the home page and allows photo uploads too. 

Keep in mind that the ASCA does not have a paid replacement team, we distribute high-quality hardware to a network of volunteers, (Greg and I do a significant amount of rebolting ourselves too, we are not paid for that work) we hope to one day be a large enough organization to employ specialists that focus just on rebolting and on-site training work across the country. We will have to grow our fundraising significantly to do, for now, the vast majority of our funds raised go to purchasing the best climbing-specific hardware in large quantities and distributing it.

Because of our large volunteer network, it is likely that we can find an individual or LCO who can address dangerous gear as it is reported - but we do not guarantee this, especially if it is a super obscure area. 

Cheers and be safe out there!

Nate Lileswrote:

Bumping this thread as I just added an unsafe hardware reporting page to the ASCA site. It is accessible from the home page and allows photo uploads too. 

Keep in mind that the ASCA does not have a paid replacement team, we distribute high-quality hardware to a network of volunteers, (Greg and I do a significant amount of rebolting ourselves too, we are not paid for that work) we hope to one day be a large enough organization to employ specialists that focus just on rebolting and on-site training work across the country. We will have to grow our fundraising significantly to do, for now, the vast majority of our funds raised go to purchasing the best climbing-specific hardware in large quantities and distributing it.

Because of our large volunteer network, it is likely that we can find an individual or LCO who can address dangerous gear as it is reported - but we do not guarantee this, especially if it is a super obscure area. 

Cheers and be safe out there!

This is a great resource. Much thanks for creating it. But where can we go to see what has been reported? As someone who does replacement work the ASCA, I’d like to know where or what might need taking a look at in my area. 

Salamanizer Skiwrote:

This is a great resource. Much thanks for creating it. But where can we go to see what has been reported? As someone who does replacement work the ASCA, I’d like to know where or what might need taking a look at in my area. 

For now, we will just email rebolters/LCO that work in the area that sketchy hardware was reported. I would like to add a volunteer portal in the future though, with route lists, hardware reports, logging for work done, time spent, etc. We are already doing this in some areas with easily sortable collaborative sheets (screenshot attached) and it is a great resource, but the initial data entry is very time-consuming. If you have any interest in building one of these sheets for the area(s) you steward, shoot me an email (nate@safeclimbing.org) and I can give you access to a model to work from. 

Once I get my to-do list on the website whittled down a bit I will start looking at options to integrate some more resources for volunteers. Thanks for your stewardship work out there!