New Route on the Incredible Hulk!

Chase “Swami” Leary  and I just completed and sent our new route, Up in Smoke, on the Hulk. It is the leftmost route on the far left side of the Hulk, “The Dark Side” as it’s called. The route is 6 pitches, is rated 5.13a, and has some of the steepest climbing on the Hulk. Like it’s older brother Green Thunder on the right side of this north face, Up in Smoke never sees the sun on it, making it a very enjoyable place to climb in the intense heat of summer. The route has two 5.13a’s, two 5.12a’s, and two 5.10a’s , clocking in as one of the technically harder routes in the high country. All belays are bolted and most have very comfortable ledges to chill on. The route follows obvious overhanging corner systems with mostly traditional gear protected thin cracks. The two crux pitches feature awesome movement on super clean mostly bolt protected overhanging granite. So stoked to find and establish another mega line on the Dark Side! Check out the MP entry for more details.

Up In Smoke

Outstanding achievemen!

Sounds sweet, I hope to try it some day! 

Please do spray away about 5.13 alpine multi pitch FA's. Wayyy better than 95% of the posts on MP, especially a new line on the Hulk.  

Anyway sick route, cool photos, way to go! 

Nice job, way out of most of our abilities!

But MP you should recognize your constant hypocrisy on the subject. FA of a new route close to home the general response is "It is a pile of choss total waste of time, you are dumb and I hate you". FA of a new route far away outside peoples limits, "such brave bold inspiring stuff."

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

Nice job, way out of most of our abilities!

But MP you should recognize your constant hypocrisy on the subject. FA of a new route close to home the general response is "It is a pile of choss total waste of time, you are dumb and I hate you". FA of a new route far away outside peoples limits, "such brave bold inspiring stuff."

is it really surprising to you that fas on roadside choss piles are less interesting than hard alpine fas on the hulk

k rwrote:

is it really surprising to you that fas on roadside choss piles are less interesting than hard alpine fas on the hulk

It is not about interest, it is about how mountain project treats people. Even if it is uninspiring to you, MP regularly takes a dump on people for posting about routes people will actually climb.

caughtinside wrote:

It is brave bold inspiring stuff. It's perfect granite at altitude. That kind of thing used to make the cover of climbing magazines.  Its ok to not think of it the same way as the 40' roadside 5.7 pile that gets gang roped by dozens of beginners each weekend.  Just because you can't tell the difference doesn't mean its hypocrisy.  

My point is more that all routes deserve some praise. Yeah this is cool but if you are thinking about the net good of the community a 5.7 roadside pile of choss serves 10,000 as many climbers. Andy did great but mountain project should be pro rock climbing and not just pro obscure rock climbs they will never do and forget about next week. What is your ratio of climbing choss to climbing on the hulk?

Edit: Don't let me distract this thread. Praise andy, just next time you see an FA your not psyched for just don't comment. 

Andy Puhvelwrote:

So stoked to find and establish another mega line on the Dark Side! 

And we are stoked for you!  All of the routes on the Hulk are on my tick list for one of my future reincarnations, but even in this current life, I love to hear about exciting, new, high quality lines at any grade.

I’m not gonna get into this. Great job Andy. This thread is for Andy and I’m distracting that.

Edit: Chuff you can DM if you want, otherwise its just a rock and if you read my pants thread you would know what kinda pants I wear.

Dope, well done! I've always wondered how much route potential lies on that face.

Please ignore the attention-seeking trolls - they seem to be disgruntled that somebody other than themselves started a thread.

"I got blistas on me fingas."

Super impressive and an inspiration, whether I can climb it or not. Like phylp says above, on my tick list for next lifetime!

It should have been called Up in Malignant Narcissism. Oh, wait, that’s just Trevor!

Sounds like a rad route, in a definitely rad location. Wish I climbed hard enough to sample it!

don'tchuffonmewrote:

The fact that it is an FA that is far outside people's limits is what makes it inspiring.  Your complaint is hyperbole.  Until you find someone that actually says what you have in quotations, then you're not actually quoting anyone.  Look up the purpose of quotations marks.  You sound like someone that just likes to whine when the slightest thing doesn't go your way.  Perhaps you should just write your congressperson about how badly you were offended on a completely voluntary website on which no one forces you to comment or participate.  Let's get some woke hashtags going and #cancelmountainproject LOL.  

Are you seriously comparing an alpine multipitch route at that grade being exalted above some pissant 5.7 roadcut afterthought that any gumby can master in the matter of an hour?  It's not the same ballpark or sport.  Are you also mad that people don't covet Hyundais as much as Teslas or Mercedes?  Does it just burn you up when overweight women don't have men drooling over them as much as Instagram models?  Do you often ponder why top notch construction for real estate in low crime neighborhoods is much more expensive than a 1/4 acre lot in a posh trailer park right outside of Detroit?  

You are dumb.  And I hate you. (I'm actually not serious about these last two sentences but get a chuckle out of picturing you rage-shitting your $300 Arcteryx pants that you used for that sick photo shoot of your 40' 5.7 FA)  Now you can properly quote someone.  There is no hypocrisy.  Some accomplishments are greater than others.  Some humans are stronger than others.  Some humans are more beautiful than others. Some people are inherently more talented, or smart or whatever (insert any one of tens of thousands of human skills and traits here). Find peace and happiness where you can because it's in short supply- especially with perpetually unhappy people seeking to make everyone in the world homogenous and "equal".  What you're bitching about isn't a thing.  Grow up.  This is climbing.  The harder and scarier it is, the more it will be awed and respected.  If you don't like that, stick to badminton or bowling or social justice or whatever the fuck it is you did before climbing.  It's human nature.  You and the other wokies can try to change millions of years of evolution if you want to, but it's an exercise in futility so have fun with that.

Next time a simple FU would probably suffice. 

God bless!