Edelrid Ohm - Lowering Issues

Who's had issues lowering on the ohm (friction device engages even when slack is given)? How frequently does this happen? Why does it happen? How do I avoid it?

Background: I (105lb) tried to lower my partner (175lb) after he'd topped a climb outdoors. There wasn't significant drag in the system, he hadn't fallen on the route, and the ohm was placed properly. We tried providing plenty of slack, bouncing, belaying from different angles, etc. I eventually lowered him, but painfully slowly due to the ohm's friction. Per that experience, the shiny gadget remains unused. I already read this post, but regardless of specific peoples' experiences (mine included), I'd like a summary of why it happens and how to avoid it. I know I could get out and explore different methods again but.. aint nobody got time 4 dat

Anyways, my roommate puts cold water and pasta over the fire, instead of boiling water and THEN adding pasta. How can I best approach this issue?

Why are you using an ohm with so little weight differential is the better question.

Edit: I can't read good

I would suggest a thinner rope. 

I used to use the ohm quite a bit, and the lowering issues sucked. On some routes it was fine, but if any rope drag is in the system or if someone lifted up the rope too fast the device locked up and can be hard to disengage. 

J W wrote:

When the lighter climber is just over 100 pounds, a 70 pound difference isn’t remotely insignificant.

Yup. I am an idiot. I read that as 150, not 105. 

Put your roommate over the fire and cook him next time. Sounds like a lost cause, you might as well get a good meal out of it

Ohm works due to change of angle in the rope - when the rope is taught or under tension, the more angle changes at the device, the more friction you will have. If the rope runs straight, there will not a whole lot of assistance, if that angle is too large, you will have too much friction. 

IIRC manual suggests to stand a couple of feet away from the wall. That is just a guideline - if the terrain is overhanging, you might want to stand right under the 1st bolt, where Ohm is clipped. And, depending where the bolt is even a couple feet might be too much - again, it is all about angle between rope strand going into the Ohm, and out.

How thick is your rope? My guess is you have something thick, maybe too thick for an ohm. I’ve never had a problem lowering on the Ohm. It provides friction, sure! That’s what it is supposed to do, when in it in the engaged position, after the heavy climber takes, or falls. But in my experience it provides just enough friction for me to comfortably lower my husband at a good speed, without lifting me off the ground.

I’m 110, he’s 220-230, and I’ve used Ohm with at least three different ropes at this point: Bluewater, Petzl, and Black diamond, all 9.4mm.

Might have used it on other ropes, too, climbing on partners ropes, but the three ropes listed above are ours, so most often used with an ohm. 

Pasta doesn't start actually cooking until about 180 degrees F. Letting it sit in water below that temperature does near nothing to affect the end result (at least for dried pasta which need to rehydrate anyways). And putting both the water and pasta on the stove at once let's you use a minimal amount of water, saving both energy and a ton of time. Makes me cringe when I see people boiling thrice as much water they need on their camp stove to cook pasta, only to dump it all out later.

Your roommate is 100% in the right here.

You could experiment with the length of the dogbone/quicklink attached to the Ohm. Changing this would also change the effectiveness of the "grabbability" of the Ohm. The longer, the less grab.

slo tawrote:

Pasta doesn't start actually cooking until about 180 degrees F. Letting it sit in water below that temperature does near nothing to affect the end result (at least for dried pasta which need to rehydrate anyways). And putting both the water and pasta on the stove at once let's you use a minimal amount of water, saving both energy and a ton of time. Makes me cringe when I see people boiling thrice as much water they need on their camp stove to cook pasta, only to dump it all out later.

Your roommate is 100% in the right here.

Pasta will rehydrate in liquid water of any temperature (super handy for making easy cold backpacking lunches), which will reduce the amount of time you need to boil the pasta later. Probably negligible in the time it takes to bring water to a boil. Completely irrelevant if you just test a piece for doneness like a civilized human.

Thanks for the input everyone. My roommate and I were unable to resolve our conflict over the pasta issue so I’ve moved out momentarily to get some space.