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Ice belay with lockers?

Original Post
Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5

Checking an ice climbing video a guide was insisting to build the belay with lockers.
Is there any "litterature" to back that up? 

I always build my ice belay with regular biners (just like on rock)
Am I going to die? (just kidding ;)

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Well, if it is a fixed-point belay you’d want lockers.

Daniel Kay · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 147

Just differing practices.

I have a friend from Sweden who uses lockers or two non-lockers on every single attachment point on the belay. I guess that's how their alpine club instructs. I am happy using single non-lockers to attach the anchor points and a locker on the masterpoint.

I have no idea what the best practice is in Switzerland.
The best belay system is one which both partners feel comfortable and safe with :)

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687

IMO - if it's "mission critical" (Defined as - if it fails, the anchor or climber is GONE) then it gets a locker or 2 O&O non-lockers. YMMV.

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5
mbk wrote:

Well, if it is a fixed-point belay you’d want lockers.

I was, of course, refering to a "standard" ice climbing belay (ie.2 or more screws)

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5
Daniel Kay wrote:

I am happy using single non-lockers to attach the anchor points and a locker on the masterpoint.

I have no idea what the best practice is in Switzerland.
The best belay system is one which both partners feel comfortable and safe with :)

Agree with all of the above. 

As for "best" practice in switzerland I m not sure.
I guess there may be a link (pun intended) but my friends use non lockers and my acquaintances use lockers :)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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