Bought a Shiny New Rack

TLDR- I found it a much better value to buy new than used

For my birthday, my family bought me a trad anchors class and 2 days with a guide climbing multi-pitch trad at Lovers Leap and Donner.

So, me and my climbing partner have been looking for Trad gear.  I found a rack on Craigslist and the guy was nice, but his gear was very used and only about half was modern.  The rest were very vintage- lot of kinked wires and some frays.  They guy have a problem with negotiating and would not budge under $800.  

I found some nice used gear on Ebay, but the price was next to new all things considered. 

I ended up loading up my REI cart with C4s and Z4s and even though the bill is a little higher, I think the nice new organized rack is much better than an iffy hodge-podge rack. It's not like buying a modern mountain bike.    

I know we are cliche with a shiny new rack, but we had fun this weekend placing some gear on a easy sport route.  

Sounds like you made a good call! Even on this forum people seem to think their old climbing gear is worth 90%+ of MSRP... Don't worry, your gear will look less shiny in no time! ;)

If you can afford it, its much better to buy new gear than old/used gear for a high price!

Super nice of your family to give you the class and the guided climbing for your Bday too :-)

Nice! Good right up for people looking to get into trad. And if you find out it’s not for you, your gear is still worth 90% of msrp! Win win!

If you stack 25% off sales with the additional 8%-12% cash back via activejunky, buying new can be pretty affordable. For example, brand new Metolius Ultralight Mastercams come out to be just around $42-$45. 

I've bought really nice gear gear off of here and never had a problem, but I never pay more than 40% off retail. That's the only way it makes financial sense.

Never. Pay. Retail.

As someone who has had three cycles of updating gear from old and used up to brand new...determine what you really want/need, and then wait for sales and buy it all. 

The last go round i had in 2018, I knew I wanted BD C4, .4 to #4, and doubles in some other brand. I decided to go with DMM Dragon II's for the doubles/triples, and I kept my 4 C3's, and got the Metolius UL Master Cams in the smallest sizes. Of course I didn't have to buy new stoppers, those things last forever if you are kind to them. Soft goods is a "replace as needed" situation. 

Matt Nwrote:

Never. Pay. Retail.

Alternative philosophy: if you have the means, support your local retail shops, or your favorite road trip shops, as much as you can. If something is on sale, or you have a coupon, fine, but buy what you want, when you want. Climbing gear, especially hardware, lasts for so long, what difference does it make in the long run?

Chris Fedorczakwrote:

If you stack 25% off sales with the additional 8%-12% cash back via activejunky, buying new can be pretty affordable. For example, brand new Metolius Ultralight Mastercams come out to be just around $42-$45. 

I've bought really nice gear gear off of here and never had a problem, but I never pay more than 40% off retail. That's the only way it makes financial sense.

I will check out Activejunky.

I have become a REI fan because 10% dividend, free shipping, price matching and its easy to return to stores.  

Now if the smoke and fires would die down in California so I could use these blingy cams more than a fidget toy at my desk.  I think I'm driving out of state.  Lovers leap is dangerously close to the fire front of the Caldor Fire.  

Matt Nwrote:

Never. Pay. Retail.

Normally, I would buy used.  I actually love a deal on CL or Ebay.  Have for a long time as a buyer and seller

I just had a bad experience with, "Its still a good deal if you re-sling"

My climbing partner is much happier buying new.  

Years ago, I worked in the outdoor industry (bicycle industry) and typically you can get a "pro-deal" if you are an employee.  Not any more. While the benefit was fun, I make more now with all things considered.  

Preeti Pwrote: Years ago, I worked in the outdoor industry (bicycle industry) and typically you can get a "pro-deal" if you are an employee.  Not any more. While the benefit was fun, I make more now with all things considered.  

Check out Americans Alpine Club membership. Not “pro deals”, but some worthwhile discounts. Plus rescue insurance, etc.

Preeti Pwrote:

Now if the smoke and fires would die down in California so I could use these blingy cams more than a fidget toy at my desk.

Climbing gear really does make for awesome fidget items lol.

Preeti Pwrote:

For my birthday, my family bought me a trad anchors class and 2 days with a guide climbing multi-pitch trad at Lovers Leap and Donner.

Even better than your good decision to buy new gear is your investment in a quality trad education experience. Good on you.

yeah, good on you for opting for classes with a guide. To what location will your trad class be moved?

Ashortwrote:

yeah, good on you for opting for classes with a guide. To what location will your trad class be moved?

Already did the trad guide days and trad anchors class at Lovers Leap and Donner in June.  

Preeti Pwrote:

Already did the trad guide days and trad anchors class at Lovers Leap and Donner in June.  

Nice, glad you got to experience the leap before the fire. 

Ashortwrote:

Nice, glad you got to experience the leap before the fire. 

Me too.  So sad.  

I wanted to practice the routes that we already did next week.  Same with Donner, but Tahoe is to smokey commit to right now.  

Going to Smith Rock.  Hoping it's not too busy during the week days.  

Preeti Pwrote:

Me too.  So sad.  

I wanted to practice the routes that we already did next week.  Same with Donner, but Tahoe is to smokey commit to right now.  

Going to Smith Rock.  Hoping it's not too busy during the week days.  

Make sure to check out the lower gorge. 

Preeti Pwrote:

TLDR- I found it a much better value to buy new than used

For my birthday, my family bought me a trad anchors class and 2 days with a guide climbing multi-pitch trad at Lovers Leap and Donner.

So, me and my climbing partner have been looking for Trad gear.  I found a rack on Craigslist and the guy was nice, but his gear was very used and only about half was modern.  The rest were very vintage- lot of kinked wires and some frays.  They guy have a problem with negotiating and would not budge under $800.  

I found some nice used gear on Ebay, but the price was next to new all things considered. 

I ended up loading up my REI cart with C4s and Z4s and even though the bill is a little higher, I think the nice new organized rack is much better than an iffy hodge-podge rack. It's not like buying a modern mountain bike.    

I know we are cliche with a shiny new rack, but we had fun this weekend placing some gear on a easy sport route.  

You found a couple of sales that over-represented the actual value of the used gear.  It isn't that new gear is better than used gear, it is that this used gear was overpriced.  It is the same buying anything used.  The last 5 cars we bought for the family were all bought used, but I've seen cars for sale that seemed like a poor choice over new.

If I can't save about 50% off the price I could pay for new gear (not the list price, the price after sales/discounts) I would pass on the used gear.  There are plenty of folks who fairly price their gear, and there are those that either don't understand the value or don't care and want top $.  Buy from the former and stay away from the latter.

Rack is not longer brand new shiny.  When to Smith Rock and spent 3 days climbing.  Warmed up a couple days on short climbs and a sport climb that has some gear use opportunities.  

This is the 3 Pitch Super Slab, 5.6, that had one trad anchor. That gear is definably a lot more work, but fun.

We did Cinnamon Slab, 5.6, 2 pitches next, which I though was a grade harder than Super Slab.  I felt like I used most of my cams up the first pitch because I only used one nut.  I'm glad I bought doubles .5 to #3.  

Welcome to the tribe!