Toproping solo? Dynamic or static

So I have been seeing lots of conflicting information regarding this. If I am doing single pitch solo top rope should I be using dynamic or static rope? Using the camp lift as main and petzl micro trax as sedondary

For me, any fall more than 12 inches on a static rope is uncomfortable. It is certainly posiible to have more slack than that in a TR scenario so I prefer a dynamic rope.

I have the same setup and prefer static rope. It seams to feed better and there is still a fair amount of stretch until your close to the anchor. I vaguely remember someone here saying the  camp lift could potentially cut the rope around 5kn, so I'm pretty diligent about having zero slack in the system, I use a makeshift chest harness (bungie chord) and make sure there's adequate weight on the bottom of the rope.

You can use either. Both have their own special considerations. It's really just personal preference.

I prefer dynamic,  but often I solo lead as well.

Having used both I prefer static, especially for a smoothly flowing setup like lift + microtrax. Easier to rap down after setting up the anchor. Also feels safer because the rope is not scraping itself over edges as it stretches (best to use some kind of rope protector whether static or dynamic).  

I use an old dynamic rope, which at this point isn't very springy so I guess it is somewhere in-between... 

Semistatic ropes exist too

Was going to say you shouldn't be using a full on static, you should be using semi static. I've got a 100m and find it almost annoyingly stretchy unless I'm 20-40 ft from the anchor. Also you should be plenty aware of the extra dangers of a stretchy rope over sharp rocks.

I’ve used both dynamic and static ropes fairly extensively over the last 20 years of top rope soloing.  If I’m coming in from the top or will be leaving the rope for any significant amount of time I will always use a static rope.    It would have to be an edge case for me to even contemplate using a dynamic rope in this situation.   My partners and I often follow multi pitch routes on a fixed line so I end up using a dynamic rope a fair bit as well.  In this situation a dynamic rope works reasonably well as it is generally clipped through more directions which adds friction and reduces the overall stretch in rope.  Generally not giving pitches repeated goes in this scenario so not as worried about sheath abrasion vs when setting a fixed line on a project where the rope might not change position for an extended amount of time or burns.

I generally use a static rope with a higher amount of elongation.  I prefer something with 4-5% elongation.  I’ve probably taken thousands of falls on these ropes and can’t say I’ve ever had it come close to feeling like it hurt.  I’ve also ended up using a lower elongation static that is around 1% stretch and that feels like a cable.  I wouldn’t recommend a rope with this low of elongation unless there is a low likelihood  of fall as that will probably hurt.  They are really nice to jumar though!

I’ve referred to static and semi-static ropes in the past.  Though this isn’t a technical distinction I think this is a useful practical distinction.   I guess maybe I found saying low-elongation static and high elongation static is a mouthful.  I reduce that to static and semi-static.  Regardless of what you call it, the elongation properties of the rope should something people pay attention to as it makes a big difference.

The Sterling Safety pro is a great choice for a higher elongation static rope.  Holds up extremely well and feeds nicely through devices.  Easily the best rope I’ve used and I’ve tried most brands and numerous different models.  

I prefer static, but usually use dynamic anyways. Static is proven to help your devices feed up the rope better. It also won’t stretch and damage itself as much if you fall. Dynamic ropes will rub onto the rock quite a bit more than a static line would. A static line would be more durable in the long run for TRS, but it would only have a specific purpose, whereas you can use a dynamic line for regular climbing as well

almost no static lines available are truly static. I find that I most prefer a rope with 1-2% stretch. 5% or more starts to feel too dynamic and stifles the ascenders

If your ascenders feed up the rope smoothly, then you won’t have to worry about taking longer than 12inch falls. Static lines makes that much easier to accomplish IMO

I don’t climb hard and have experience with dynos while soloing. It would probably be better to use dynamic for that purpose

Noel Z wrote:

The terms "static" and "semi-static" are the same thing. Do not think that "semi-static" is something between dynamic and static.

I'm not sure I agree with this. At the climbing gym I work for we use "semi-static" (low stretch) ropes for top-roping which is different than the "static" ropes we use for route setting and guiding. Technically all "static" ropes are "semi-static" but that's splitting hairs.  When shopping for rope, "semi-static" can definitely refer to something between static and dynamic. In my experience, static ropes usually have less than 3% elongation. Semi-static has 3-10% elongation, and dynamic ropes have 21-40%. 

I use an older dynamic climbing rope. Makes me feel a little better if I get any slack in the system to fall on it. I only own some stiffer static rigging ropes. Don’t have any issues with the dynamic rope running through a camp lift and microtraxion. If was buying a rope specifically for TR solo would probably do what Mikey suggests and do something with 4-5% elongation. 

I use a static 90% of the time, but my current "TR solo rope" does have a fair amount of stretch. It's a BD brand I believe. Only time I prefer to bring a dynamic is if there's potential I'll want to lead solo, but otherwise I enjoy the lack of bounce and increased durability the static offers. Particularly if I am developing and/or might be jugging up the line. That's a nightmare on a stretchy rope. 

Another consideration: a static rope is typically cheaper AND more durable

Sam Skovgaardwrote:

Another consideration: a static rope is typically cheaper AND more durable

Though the cheapest (free) option is an old dynamic rope that has gotten less stretchy and has been demoted to TR only. This is the main reason to use a dynamic rope - I already have several old dynamic ropes in the closet that I don't mind beating up on TR solo. I don't need to go out and buy yet another rope. I expect the situation is similar for many climbers. This is the "use whatever you already have" approach.

That said, if I was going out and buying a new rope specifically for TR solo, I would go for a static or semi static for the reasons described above.

I too use dynamic. Also prefer retired lead ropes so less stretch. If you run a device like a grigri that requires constant slack to be pulled and you are TRing projects you will find yourself routinely taking falls that will be uncomfortable on static lines. 

If the last backup in case other devices fail is a knot below the climber then surely the knot should be in dynamic rope as that will have to take a more severe fall? It would follow that in TRS systems using only one rope that should be dynamic. If two ropes are used the one with the primary device, involving a minimal fall unless it fails, might best be "static".

It should probably be noted that all of the tests Petzl conducted were factor 1 falls.  In real life scenarios if you are taking factor 1 falls while TR soloing you have made some serious mistakes and should probably question if you have the requisite knowledge and experience to be using the system.

It would be super helpful to see test results that directly apply to TRS and hopefully those tests could show impact force and rope damage at more realistic fall factors with both dynamic and static ropes.

Does anyone out there have a story of TR soloing on a static rope that has lead to damage to the rope, device or climber?  

Noel Z wrote:

The test are for falls up to a factor of 1. That's not an actual fall, but a descriptor for a range of falls from >0 to <=1, or from 1cm or, if enough rope is in the system >600cm, more even depending on mostly the rope. The main factor in calculating a fall factor is the rope. Most online fall factor calculators assume you are using dynamic rope. For good reason. No manufacture wants even discuss falling on static rope in recreational climbing. Sure, it's possible to calculate fall factor for a static rope. Do it and see how quickly you will be over a fall factor > 1. The consider hat most ascenders will strip a rope at 4kN.

So, only a knowledgeable and experienced elite should TRS? I learn something new every time im out and am always optimising never satisfied. I'd say to any would-be TRSoloer: have a solid understanding of forces and how they relate to your gear, then gain experience by do it and reflect on it. Still you are entirely right, keep the system dialed to minimise slack.

I agree that every climber, especially those doing TRS, must understand forces and the factors that contribute to them. Your first bolded (by me) statement, however, suggests that you do not understand what "fall factor" means and how it is calculated. For a fall of X meters on Y meters of rope, there is one and only one fall factor that can be calculated. The type of rope has NO bearing on the calculated FF. 

Note to newbies - this doesn't mean you should whip on a static rope. There are OTHER factors involved in how and to what extent forces are exerted on the gear/climber. That's why they are called "factors", No single factor, be it FF, climber weight, rope modulus, sliding friction etc, tell the whole story by itself.

Fall factor is a ratio of distance fallen / length of rope. It's not abstract nor does it increase with a static rope. You're confusing FF with impact force.

TRS and top belay are equal with respect to how the will impact the rope, device and climber in the event of a fall. What is different is the a top belay needs to be attended to, while a TRS [if set up correctly] will follow the climber. It's key to have the device follow you as you move up, especially on a static rope. As you approach the anchor the potential of a higher FF increases but at the same time it's easier for the device to follow you. More rope weight pulling down.

You are correct that tying safety knots in a static rope is a moot point. No company posts dynamic elongation of a static rope because it's not designed to take sizable falls.
So while no one needs not be an elitist to TRS, they do need to fully understand what's happening in their system.

If it's a short route <20m then a dynamic rope is fine. Once you start doing longer routes or low cruxes, a semi-static [ 3-5% static elongation ] is preferred. The super stiff cavers ropes [ 2% ]  should be avoided unless the route is extremely long.

Like everything else the right tool for the job and the skill to use it properly, makes the experience more fun and safer.