Is it ok to leave steel binner+ring on anchors that have plain chains only?

Recently went climbing to Uinta, Ruth's Lake. Amazing wall, very lovely lines but, to my surprise, most of the anchors had only rusty plain chains (while bolting is in good shape). It's a bit of pain in the ass to clean such anchors/lines so I wondered if it's ok to get some steel binners+rings and leave them on such anchors?

if so, is it ok to use Plated instead of Stainless Steel?

Roman Sergeevwrote:

Recently went climbing to Uinta, Ruth's Lake. Amazing wall, very lovely lines but, to my surprise, most of the anchors had only rusty plain chains (while bolting is in good shape). It's a bit of pain in the ass to clean such anchors/lines so I wondered if it's ok to get some steel binners+rings and leave them on such anchors?

if so, is it ok to use Plated instead of Stainless Steel?

Highly likely someone will nab them. If you really feel the need to leave biners make sure you get the captive ones. 

You'd want something like this.

Igor Chainedwrote:

You'd want something like this.

I don't mind repelling, it just squeezing the rope through a tiny chain link. Honestly, looking for the cheapest way to improve the anchor situation. I think I can get 2 biners and 2 rings for about 10-12$ if PS is ok.

Levi Xwrote:

Highly likely someone will nab them. If you really feel the need to leave biners make sure you get the captive ones. 

Hm.... I mean biners like these CAMP Oval Quick Link - Steel , Plated or ClimbTech 3/8 in Quicklink - Plated Steel and CLIMBTECH - ZINC PLATED 10MM RAP RING. Will people really take these off the anchors?
I'm just really not sure if there are any rules about what sort of metal/gear can be used on anchors that already have plain chains.

It is nicer to thread a bite of rope through a ring than a chain. Doubt that you will get many complaints. 

Good for you for wanting to improve the hatdware. If you snug the quicklink with a wrench they might hang around.

Roman Sergeevwrote:

Hm.... I mean biners like these CAMP Oval Quick Link - Steel , Plated or ClimbTech 3/8 in Quicklink - Plated Steel and CLIMBTECH - ZINC PLATED 10MM RAP RING. Will people really take these off the anchors?
I'm just really not sure if there are any rules about what sort of metal/gear can be used on anchors that already have plain chains.

Less likely for someone to take a QL, I think its highly likely for someone to take loose biners though. If you have a high theft area you can always add some adhesive on the QL. It makes replacement more of a pain (have to saw off) but they will definitely stay. Personally I would just add a QL and tighten it good. If those walk away then you can add adhesive. 

On less traveled routes that I do often I leave a large QL and just finger tighten it, that way I just unscrew it, put the rope in screw it down and lower.   QL on the hanger are tightened with a wrench but there is no need to do the same with the QL on the end of the chain.   Most people arent going to try and steal a QL so leaving it finger tight is fine and perfectly safe.

Michael Creel wrote:

Just putting a large split link onto the last link of the chain is a cheap alternative that increases the radius the rope passes over. They're also easily replaced when worn.

What is a split link?

Kevin Mokracekwrote:

On less traveled routes that I do often I leave a large QL and just finger tighten it, that way I just unscrew it, put the rope in screw it down and lower.   QL on the hanger are tightened with a wrench but there is no need to do the same with the QL on the end of the chain.   Most people arent going to try and steal a QL so leaving it finger tight is fine and perfectly safe.

Could you post a link on one of these? I have not seen different sizes of QL.

One plated steel 3/8" quick link on the end of each chain should allow for lowering or rappelling, be cost effective, easy to maintain, and not cause corrosion as the chain (especially if rusted) is likely plated steel. I'd recommend going that route.

Note that the "carabiners" you posted links to are, in fact, quick links, and not carabiners. The "split link" referenced above likely refers to a quick link as well. You may also see them referred to as "rapid links" or "maillon rapide."

Roman Sergeevwrote:

What is a split link?

Also heard these called lap links. They are links used to join two pieces of chain. Just a ring of metal that is threaded through the chain and hammered shut. Probably fine but IMHO a pain in the rear to remove since you need to pry the thing apart and less confidence inspiring than a quick link. QLs are a much better option for anchor applications and don’t cost much more.

Roman Sergeevwrote:

Could you post a link on one of these? I have not seen different sizes of QL.

You already posted links to them yourself few posts up.  Just put a couple of 3/8 QL and put them on the end of the chains.

Plated quicklinks will be fine at Ruth's Lake, I'd definitely recommend stainless bolts/hangers, but on easily replaceable external portions of an anchor like chain or quicklinks in a dry environment, plated will last many years and won't cause any issues.

Looks like the SLCA will be upgrading the anchor sets at Ruth Lake this August: https://www.saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2021/7/26/mid-summer-climbing-anchor-maintenance-report-2021

The blog post illustrates some of the problems with leaving fixed draws/biners at popular crags. They will likely use SS chain and rings that you will still have to thread.

jonathan knightwrote:

Looks like the SLCA will be upgrading the anchor sets at Ruth Lake this August: https://www.saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2021/7/26/mid-summer-climbing-anchor-maintenance-report-2021

The blog post illustrates some of the problems with leaving fixed draws/biners at popular crags. They will likely use SS chain and rings that you will still have to thread.

Thanks for posting this info. Instead of getting QL, I simply donated $ equal to the replacement of a single route. Not much, but hopefully that area gets normal anchors.