Paul Nelson, Ph.D.

What should we tell you about Paul Nelson? Should we tell you of how we met? Or of how he came to live at the New River Gorge? Should we tell you of his love for music and of the many bands he played in? Should we mention his penchant for forum trolling? Should we regale you with tales of new-routing in the back woods of West Virginia or of our exploits on one whitewater river or another? Should we mention all the quiet moments on a porch or in a garage discussing the pressing issues of our lives? Or should we just tell you about how easily he could lose himself in a climb, on a river, in a song, in the eyes of his wife, Miranda? Yep, the Paul-Nelson stories are legion—many of you know this first hand. This is because he was a top-notch, grade-A human being—and also singular, monumental, the epitome of the quiet badass. He could be counted on equally for the most mundane of favors or least safe of adventures. At any moment, he might spit a rhyme, a historical “well-actually,” or drop a pun in our lap heavy enough to make us groan—and we’d love it all the same. Paul was our dear friend. There will never be another like him.

If we could be granted a wish, it would be to have him back. But since that’s not a thing, we’ll ask for a consolation wish—MAKE PAUL A LEGEND. Fill these forums full of stories until they overflow, so that we may never forget how many lives he touched and how deeply.

Your spirit will run through my goddamn veins until the day that I collide with you in the river, on the rocks, or in the woods in search of new rock. 

I only goofed with him for a while on the rock forums a long time back (the puns were indeed weighty) but that’s far, far too young to be gone. RIP Camhead. Damn.

I don't even know where to begin. This past week has been blurry and unreal.

I keep remembering the puns, and the comfortably-worn familiar jokes. Who is going to tell me about Erie being guardless now? Who will quote the "Jack's rules of climbing" at me, and ask me if I found my dignity stashed in the closet, behind the badminton set and the lawn darts?

I keep remembering the awesome Thanksgiving pies, and how serious he was about the proper making of the pie dough. (the secret is vodka!)

Who will tell me which 10 books do I urgently need to read, NOW? I still haven't read Robert Massey's bio of Catherine the Great, but I will now, I promise, Paul!

July 2011. Paul just sent Paleface, 13a in Logan canyon. Chalk on the face is normal. 

Also, 2011, Uintas, 12a called Sessions

October 2011, RRG, onsighting Scar Tissue

2013, maybe the first hard climb after recovering from an extensive foot surgery, Fuel Injector, 13b at the New

Thanksgiving 2018, Showing me how obviously easy it is to do Egyptian root canal, V5 at the Meadow top at the New.

Good guy, the actual real community will miss him. He never sold out.

I only met Paul a few times, but he was a very friendly, very humble guy.  We had a lot of mutual friends and acquaintances and everyone spoke very highly of him.  This is a huge loss to the community, my condolences to all his friends and family.

I've known Paul a very long time, and he was a great climbing partner and an even better story teller.  I think I enjoyed the approaches more than the climbing because of the conversations.

Paul took me on my first whitewater trip in Westwater, and then my first multiday whitewater trip in Cataract, and these trips really changed the course of my life.  Paul also delivered my first beat down swim when he flipped in Big Drop 2 and I got to swim Big Drop 3.  Something like 10 years later I attended a lecture and book signing for his wonderful history of attempts to settle the Utah canyon country Wrecks of Human Ambition.  He signed it "I still feel bad about that flip in Cataract.  -Paul"

I miss him, and I'll miss never again seeing him pull up in his decrepit Toyota pickup that was getting ancient enough for a PhD dissertation of its own history.

So sorry for everyone's loss here. 

Paul and I were injury buddies.

On November 21, 2012 he fell on a 12d trad route at the Red, a piece of pro pulled out causing a harder fall and a few parts tearing and breaking in the foot.

He hobbled back to the cabin we stayed in, got some ice, and was sitting on the couch resting his injured foot.

I was climbing in another spot and fell when clipping the anchors after a foot piece broke. I hit a tree behind me, got knocked out, and woke up on the ground with a bloody face, sending me to the hospital for a CAT scan and many stitches.

When we got back to the cabin, people who were with me walked in, saw Paul with a bag of ice over his injured foot, and inquired about it. He told them that he hurt it in the fall to which they said, “Ok, but did you hear what happened to Vlad?!” 

Thus I unwittingly stole Paul’s thunder at the moment when he sure was in a lot of pain and could’ve used every bit of sympathy he could get.

Truth be told, his injury was far more serious, requiring a complicated surgery, screws in the foot, and months of recovery. But that did nothing to Paul’s desire for climbing. He was training any body part he could to be ready to climb as soon as he was cleared by the doctor. He developed an effective finger strength routine that helped me a year later when I broke my foot bouldering.

When fully recovered Paul went on to climb even harder. I remember belaying him on an Endless Wall 5.13c project. As he was making his way up, move by move, it looked like he was climbing a 5.9! It made me think I could do the same route (not even close!), after seeing the ease and elegance of Paul’s moves.

I’ll miss his lightheartedness at the crag, the wealth of knowledge about all things climbing, and the eagerness to teach others all he could.

RIP Camhead.

Vladimir Tokarevwrote:

Paul and I were injury buddies.

On November 21, 2012 he fell on a 12d trad route at the Red, a piece of pro pulled out causing a harder fall and a few parts tearing and breaking in the foot.

He hobbled back to the cabin we stayed in, got some ice, and was sitting on the couch resting his injured foot.

I was climbing in another spot and fell when clipping the anchors after a foot piece broke. I hit a tree behind me, got knocked out, and woke up on the ground with a bloody face, sending me to the hospital for a CAT scan and many stitches.

When we got back to the cabin, people who were with me walked in, saw Paul with a bag of ice over his injured foot, and inquired about it. He told them that he hurt it in the fall to which they said, “Ok, but did you hear what happened to Vlad?!” 

Thus I unwittingly stole Paul’s thunder at the moment when he sure was in a lot of pain and could’ve used every bit of sympathy he could get.

Truth be told, his injury was far more serious, requiring a complicated surgery, screws in the foot, and months of recovery. But that did nothing to Paul’s desire for climbing. He was training any body part he could to be ready to climb as soon as he was cleared by the doctor. He developed an effective finger strength routine that helped me a year later when I broke my foot bouldering.

When fully recovered Paul went on to climb even harder. I remember belaying him on an Endless Wall 5.13c project. As he was making his way up, move by move, it looked like he was climbing a 5.9! It made me think I could do the same route (not even close!), after seeing the ease and elegance of Paul’s moves.

I’ll miss his lightheartedness at the crag, the wealth of knowledge about all things climbing, and the eagerness to teach others all he could.

RIP Camhead.

I remember! That evening you certainly looked the worse for the wear. And Paul was still in denial (it’s just a sprain), and had to be convinced to see the dr (eventually… he wasn’t cutting Friendsgiving short, lol!) 

Can’t really see your face in this photo. 

Sorry to hear. Met him only a couple times in person (Gunks, NRG) but have known him by online presence for years. Seemed like a great person, condolences on the loss to all that knew him.

How did he pass? If you don't mind me asking. He sounds like an amazing person to have know. My condolences to his family and his many friends. He looks so young in the photos.

Someone correct me if this is not The Paul:

Paul Thomas Nelson, 1979 - 2021

I regret not having met him. 

Good to hear stories of Paul. I never met him, but knew of him from rockclimbing.com. Very sorry he passed away so soon.

I first met Paul in the forums of this very website, with him unabashedly inferring that I was a clueless gumby because I believed that cross-loaded carabiners were no big deal (when belaying) and that in most cases, when they were loaded they corrected themselves to the strongest orientation.  Of course, many years later I know I was wrong.  The forum and exchange is undoubtedly still up here somewhere, and it's probably over a decade old.  I first met him in person when he began managing the newly-opened (at the time) AAC campground at the New.  He seemed way friendlier in person, and despite there being a ban on fires at individual sites (this was just after the Endless Wall fire- I forget what year) of which I was unaware- he let it slide.  Shortly after that, I started maintaining the route database with him and Chris here on MP.  Through a bunch of emails and hanging out with him on various occasions when I would visit the New (still every chance I get every Spring and Fall) I got to know him pretty well. 

I remember feeling very petty, audacious and precocious looking back on my first interaction with him, for this was a man that I clearly could learn from, and was interested, to some degree, in bestowing his knowledge on those humble enough to seek it.  Paul was truly a world class adventure guide in every sense of the word.  Whether on the water, on the rock, or navigating sketch gravel mountain roads in his Tacoma, he exhibited a prowess and calm in situations where few people can make that claim.  

He was also a brilliant musician and instrumentalist and his passion for music showed in his playing.  I remember the first time I saw him play and sing at the (now memorialized) hangout above SSS and I was blown away- particularly because I play myself and know what it takes to make the difficult riffs look THAT easy.  I remember thinking "Jesus, this dude plays like he climbs- awe-inspiring."  

He was a true intellect in every sense of the word. He had a tenacious thirst for knowledge and could have gone anywhere in the world and been a success.  He chose teaching, climbing and paddling at the New and we're all better off for it.  He had a way of relating to people with a genuine interest and a sense of humor that was as lively and sharp as his wit.

When someone texted me that he passed, it was devastating.  I simply could not believe it.  He told me that he had been bouldering a ton lately and noticed that I had too, and was psyched to get out this fall when I visit. Though I didn't know him nearly as well as many commenting here, the pain of having lost one of our own, a very, very special one, will be with me for a long time.

My heartfelt condolences to his family and wife and his climbing and paddling family and friends in Fayetteville and elsewhere.  This is a hole that can't be filled and I grieve for and with all of you.

Here are a couple links that one can watch to get an inkling of the beautiful, hilarious, passionate person that he was:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6GWrq8WMcM

https://vimeo.com/78285707

RIP Paul.  

Chris Whisenhuntwrote:

Your spirit will run through my goddamn veins until the day that I collide with you in the river, on the rocks, or in the woods in search of new rock. 

Could not have said it better.

Jake Joneswrote:

I first met Paul in the forums of this very website, with him unabashedly inferring that I was a clueless gumby because I believed that cross-loaded carabiners were no big deal (when belaying) and that in most cases, when they were loaded they corrected themselves to the strongest orientation.  Of course, many years later I know I was wrong.  The forum and exchange is undoubtedly still up here somewhere, and it's probably over a decade old.  I first met him in person when he began managing the newly-opened (at the time) AAC campground at the New.  He seemed way friendlier in person, and despite there being a ban on fires at individual sites (this was just after the Endless Wall fire- I forget what year) of which I was unaware- he let it slide.  Shortly after that, I started maintaining the route database with him and Chris here on MP.  Through a bunch of emails and hanging out with him on various occasions when I would visit the New (still every chance I get every Spring and Fall) I got to know him pretty well. 

I remember feeling very petty, audacious and precocious looking back on my first interaction with him, for this was a man that I clearly could learn from, and was interested, to some degree, in bestowing his knowledge on those humble enough to seek it.  Paul was truly a world class adventure guide in every sense of the word.  Whether on the water, on the rock, or navigating sketch gravel mountain roads in his Tacoma, he exhibited a prowess and calm in situations where few people can make that claim.  

He was also a brilliant musician and instrumentalist and his passion for music showed in his playing.  I remember the first time I saw him play and sing at the (now memorialized) hangout above SSS and I was blown away- particularly because I play myself and know what it takes to make the difficult riffs look THAT easy.  I remember thinking "Jesus, this dude plays like he climbs- awe-inspiring."  

He was a true intellect in every sense of the word. He had a tenacious thirst for knowledge and could have gone anywhere in the world and been a success.  He chose teaching, climbing and paddling at the New and we're all better off for it.  He had a way of relating to people with a genuine interest and a sense of humor that was as lively and sharp as his wit.

When someone texted me that he passed, it was devastating.  I simply could not believe it.  He told me that he had been bouldering a ton lately and noticed that I had too, and was psyched to get out this fall when I visit. Though I didn't know him nearly as well as many commenting here, the pain of having lost one of our own, a very, very special one, will be with me for a long time.

My heartfelt condolences to his family and wife and his climbing and paddling family and friends in Fayetteville and elsewhere.  This is a hole that can't be filled and I grieve for and with all of you.

Here are a couple links that one can watch to get an inkling of the beautiful, hilarious, passionate person that he was:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6GWrq8WMcM

https://vimeo.com/78285707

RIP Paul.  

Paul wrote a really good article that I recommend people read to go alongside the color blind video: eveningsends.com/day-sent-c…

J LOwrote:

Paul wrote a really good article that I recommend people read to go alongside the color blind video: eveningsends.com/day-sent-c…

I just reread that, and it rang as true and as insightful as it did years ago when I read it.  Thanks for sharing it again.

Paul was a mensch. Knowledgeable yet humble. Enthusiastic yet... enthusiastic. It has been some time since Paul and I spoke, yet it feels like he has always had some influence on my climbing life. Paul and I climbed extensively together during the time we both lived in Dallas. His psych was unparalleled, be it for rocks, music, or talking history. I feel very lucky for knowing him when I did. Some memories that jump out at me:

1) Paul and I headed down to EPC for some Mexican limestone with a dude he met off rockclimbing.com. Come to find out said dude was the granddaddy of hard aid in the NE. All that aside, we had a breakdown before we hit the border and spent a night in a cheap motel drinking whiskey and watching John Wayne movies all night, as we had to actively chase folks off from breaking into our car and room (literally sat with a chair against a door).

2) Paul was a screamer and known for causing Exposure Indoor Climbing Gym staff to run frantically into the main bouldering area because they thought someone had just lost a limb. Turns out he was just trying hard...

3) Paul was the caffeinated climber... He was almost impossible to rouse from his sleeping bag in the morning... That being said, watching Paul was like watching a steam train as he gathered caffeine in his system. By the time breakfast had been made and all caffeinated options consumed, he was literally the highlight of every morning; virtually unstoppable. 

Miss you already brother. Will carry your torch.

P.S. Couldn't help but add he belayed me on my first trad lead (I think?) and also broke my childhood image of MacGyver... So the story goes, Paul guided the actor that played MacGyver on a river trip. The boat flipped. They used a 5 to 1 to get the boat back upright. Tried their damndest to explain it to MacGyver... He didn't get it nor was he interested... FML

Redacted Redactedwrote:

 broke my childhood image of MacGyver... So the story goes, Paul guided the actor that played MacGyver on a river trip. The boat flipped. They used a 5 to 1 to get the boat back upright. Tried their damndest to explain it to MacGyver... He didn't get it nor was he interested... FML

Paul was an inspiration to me, even though I never met him.  Many of us want to be experts in several fields, and we want to feel like we used every last drop of talent and effort to climb something only far stronger climbers have been successful in.  Paul showed that in both his writing and video of Color Blind in the NRG.  Its only one climb in a career of climbing but it showed what sort of character Paul had.

The Day I Sent: Color Blind