best trad crag in the USA/world?
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Yosemite, index, creek, gunks, trout creek |
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North Table Mountain, CO |
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Chamonix. |
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E Fwrote: Absolutely world class sport climbing, but trad? I’m not so sure. |
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E Fwrote: The bowels is the belly full of bad berries of the front range. Ultra classic |
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Andrew Biggswrote: I’m glad someone gets my humor! |
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Cragmont, Berkeley, CA |
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Fresno Dome. Just kidding. Danland. |
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Fair Head in Northern Ireland is worth mentioning. Hundreds of routes, variety of different climbing styles, single pitch, multi pitch up to 100m, and not a single bolt to be found in the entire crag. |
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I've seen Moore's Wall and Shortoff in NC mentioned, but no mention of Looking Glass Rock. If you like slab, this is the place to go. There are awesome routes from 5.7 up to 5.12. The North Side has even been described as a mini Yosemite with it's splitter cracks and slick granite. Another unique feature are the "eyebrows". It has year round climbing with "easy" approaches. I would say the only downside is the weather. It can seep after rain, but some routes dry 10 minutes after it stops. Oh, and nothing is soft in NC :) Dinkus Dog: Favorite trad route of all time! |
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Why is this thread still alive? The answer is in the first five posts. |
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IC isn't trad if you rap from bolts. Hell, its barely even desert climbing. I know over a dozen Wingate canyons as good, but they don't have a paved road that allows you to side step half the challenge of real desert climbing. Kids these days!!! (and get off my lawn) |
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Ron Owrote: El Cap has a bolted rap descent. |
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Daniel Chode Riderwrote: Faster going the other way... and then it's also trad. |
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Chode Rider; who said El Cap is trad? Bolts on virtually any line. |
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You're being facetious, and I forgive you. :) |
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Going again with the latter half of the OP's USA/world option - has anyone yet suggested the Marmolada South Face? Sad to relate that I haven't actually climbed on it, but it looks amazing. And big. |
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If you use bolts its not trad unless you are a newb. |
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Ron Owrote: George Anderson FA Half Dome 1875 drilled a bolt ladder up it. Bolts are Trad. |
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The Valley, Joshua Tree, The Creek in that order. Oh and Courtwright reservoir. |




