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best trad crag in the USA/world?

Mirka Kova · · ZigZag, OR · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 120

Yosemite, index, creek, gunks, trout creek

E F · · Yet another Outback · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 0

North Table Mountain, CO

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5

Chamonix.
What? I can't be self-centered like the rest of you? ;)

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205
E Fwrote:

North Table Mountain, CO

Absolutely world class sport climbing, but trad? I’m not so sure. 

Andrew Biggs · · Colorado · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 704
E Fwrote:

North Table Mountain, CO

The bowels is the belly full of bad berries of the front range. Ultra classic 

E F · · Yet another Outback · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 0
Andrew Biggswrote:

The bowels is the belly full of bad berries of the front range. Ultra classic 

I’m glad someone gets my humor!

Chris toph · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 212

Cragmont, Berkeley, CA

YOLOLZ Bicarbonate · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2020 · Points: 5

Fresno Dome.

Just kidding. 

Danland.

Andrew Bierman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2020 · Points: 5

Fair Head in Northern Ireland is worth mentioning. Hundreds of routes, variety of different climbing styles, single pitch, multi pitch up to 100m, and not a single bolt to be found in the entire crag.

Adam Gallimore · · Greensboro · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 541

I've seen Moore's Wall and Shortoff in NC mentioned, but no mention of Looking Glass Rock. If you like slab, this is the place to go. There are awesome routes from 5.7 up to 5.12. The North Side has even been described as a mini Yosemite with it's splitter cracks and slick granite. Another unique feature are the "eyebrows". It has year round climbing with "easy" approaches. 

I would say the only downside is the weather. It can seep after rain, but some routes dry 10 minutes after it stops. Oh, and nothing is soft in NC :)

Dinkus Dog: Favorite trad route of all time!

Daniel Chode Rider · · Truck, Wenatchee · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 7,484

Why is this thread still alive? The answer is in the first five posts.

Ron O · · middle of nowhere, southern… · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

IC isn't trad if you rap from bolts. Hell, its barely even desert climbing. I know over a dozen Wingate canyons as good, but they don't have a paved road that allows you to side step half the challenge of real desert climbing.

Kids these days!!!

(and get off my lawn)

Daniel Chode Rider · · Truck, Wenatchee · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 7,484
Ron Owrote:

IC isn't trad if you rap from bolts. 

El Cap has a bolted rap descent.

x15x15 · · Use Ignore Button · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 280
Daniel Chode Riderwrote:

El Cap has a bolted rap descent.

Faster going the other way... and then it's also trad.

Ron O · · middle of nowhere, southern… · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Chode Rider; who said El Cap is trad? Bolts on virtually any line.

Daniel Chode Rider · · Truck, Wenatchee · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 7,484

You're being facetious, and I forgive you. :)

Ignatius Pi · · Europe · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 14

Going again with the latter half of the OP's USA/world option - has anyone yet suggested the Marmolada South Face? Sad to relate that I haven't actually climbed on it, but it looks amazing. And big.

Ron O · · middle of nowhere, southern… · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

If you use bolts its not trad unless you are a newb.

Sprayloard Overstoker · · Conquistador of the Useless · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 220
Ron Owrote:

Chode Rider; who said El Cap is trad? Bolts on virtually any line.

George Anderson FA Half Dome 1875 drilled a bolt ladder up it.

Bolts are Trad.

lsdclimber Ellis · · Lake Elsinore, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 195

The Valley, Joshua Tree, 

The Creek in that order. Oh and Courtwright reservoir.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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