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Any reason not to use runner/girth hitch anchor?

Original Post
Pat Marrinan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 25

I have been almost exclusively using a dyneema runner equalized between three pieces and girth hitched to master point for my trad anchors lately. I feel like I see more people using cord for their anchors than this method. I am yet to have an issue with being able to equalize or not having a long enough runner. Is there any reason to diversify anchor styles, or is this totally fine? Thanks!

Matt Z · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 179

If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as a nail. 

Nothing inherently wrong with using a long sling and making a girth hitch master point. But it’s also worth having a variety of tools available to you. 

For example, if you have three good pieces but they’re close together, using a quad sling and girth hitch will often result in a master point that’s too low to be comfortable. In this case, it’d be worth having a technique that would allow you to use those three placements and still have a nice high master point. Just the first example that comes to mind. 

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
Pat Marrinanwrote:

I have been almost exclusively using a dyneema runner equalized between three pieces and girth hitched to master point for my trad anchors lately. I feel like I see more people using cord for their anchors than this method. I am yet to have an issue with being able to equalize or not having a long enough runner. Is there any reason to diversify anchor styles, or is this totally fine? Thanks!

You mean instead of a similar-length cordelette? No. I think modern, long, dyneema runners make great anchor options. And you can always use the rope if you need more length. 

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Totally fine. More expensive to bail on. 

Will McCarthy · · Bend Oregon · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

It's wise to have energy absorbing elements built into your setup. Climbing rope is designed to absorb energy. Dyneema is not. 

https://youtu.be/Vrgadjo9niY

The video title: 'DMM Technical Video on Slings at Anchors". Seems to directly address the original posts' query.

RandyLee · · On the road · Joined May 2016 · Points: 261
Will McCarthywrote:

It's wise to have energy absorbing elements built into your setup. Climbing rope is designed to absorb energy. Dyneema is not. 

That’s uhhh…. sort of why we have a dynamic climbing rope attached to us and the follower. Anchors don’t need to be dynamic. 


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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