Any reason not to use runner/girth hitch anchor?
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I have been almost exclusively using a dyneema runner equalized between three pieces and girth hitched to master point for my trad anchors lately. I feel like I see more people using cord for their anchors than this method. I am yet to have an issue with being able to equalize or not having a long enough runner. Is there any reason to diversify anchor styles, or is this totally fine? Thanks! |
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If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as a nail. Nothing inherently wrong with using a long sling and making a girth hitch master point. But it’s also worth having a variety of tools available to you. For example, if you have three good pieces but they’re close together, using a quad sling and girth hitch will often result in a master point that’s too low to be comfortable. In this case, it’d be worth having a technique that would allow you to use those three placements and still have a nice high master point. Just the first example that comes to mind. |
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Pat Marrinanwrote: You mean instead of a similar-length cordelette? No. I think modern, long, dyneema runners make great anchor options. And you can always use the rope if you need more length. |
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Totally fine. More expensive to bail on. |
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It's wise to have energy absorbing elements built into your setup. Climbing rope is designed to absorb energy. Dyneema is not. https://youtu.be/Vrgadjo9niY The video title: 'DMM Technical Video on Slings at Anchors". Seems to directly address the original posts' query. |
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Will McCarthywrote: That’s uhhh…. sort of why we have a dynamic climbing rope attached to us and the follower. Anchors don’t need to be dynamic. |




