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Stiff Finger - Take it easy or keep climbing

Original Post
Johnny Utah · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 0

Have a pretty stiff ring finger on my right hand. Happened on the spray wall on a pinch I think, about 2-2.5 weeks ago. It almost felt like it was about to pop but I let go just before. Felt kind of warm etc like I believe a pulley injury would feel. I took it easy for a few days but now climbing again at the bouldering gym, and at my limit, but with the finger taped. I'm just wondering what I can/should be doing and if I should be taking it more easy. Feels extra stiff in the morning, but does feel like it's getting better by the day. I'm moving for the summer to CO soon and want to be able to get out and climb as much as I can while I'm away - and don't want to mess it up any further before I even get to CO. Tips/advice much appreciated - thanks! 

Hangdog Steve · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 0

Be smart and give it some rest. A tendon injury could easily ruin those summer plans. It's better to accept a small setback than to risk a big setback.

Johnny Utah · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 0
Hangdog Stevewrote:

Be smart and give it some rest. A tendon injury could easily ruin those summer plans. It's better to accept a small setback than to risk a big setback.

Yeah true. Do you think it would be chill to still just do some easy climbing in the gym, like v1-v2's? Or complete rest? Anything I should be doing in the meantime (cold compression, etc)? 

Noah Betz · · Beattyville, KY · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 49

I know this thread is a couple days old, but IMO this advice is always worth repeating: In all my years climbing, I have literally never regretted taking a week off

Greg l · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

Thirding what everyone else is saying. Further, I've found Hoopers beta to be a good resource for recovering from injuries. Be sure to not let your stoke take over and get yourself hurt. It's so easy to go to hard on injuries

maria b · · Gardiner, NY · Joined May 2016 · Points: 20

This is a great article: https://www.climbing.com/skills/the-complete-pulley-injury-rehab-program-for-climbers/

You can also do virtual PT sessions with the author Jeff Giddings (google him) He was awesome and helped me out with a pulley injury that wasn't healing. Recommend.  

Johnny Utah · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 0

Thanks for the advice all. I decided to play it safe and not climb till I'm in CO

Steven Lee · · El Segundo, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 385

A finger injury is a great time to do all the other antagonistic/complementary training you've been skipping out on to climb. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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