New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #16

Carl, Randy and Helen, I’ve been following “Over50” for a while and have finally been pushed off my stodgy spot by the camaraderie and conversation. I learned to drive a stick shift Chevy convertible in Wawona in 1966 and moved to Camp 4 in spring of 1970 in my 1955 three on the tree, Ford PU with a plywood camper I parked and began learning how to climb pitches after 2 years of bouldering at Indian Rock Park.

Thanks for all you have shared!

David

Carl.  The same guy who writes fuck and beans poems cannot also write this: “I drove that ship (literally, wheel in hand) through typhoons in the South China Sea and through seas as calm as the bathwater and green with bioluminescence, air balmy and still... “

Todd- great find!! Is it unclimbed?
Carl- cool story. I find that being in control of a ship is well- different. My friends would only let me drive when at sea. “Just look forward and keep the compass at 280”

And a clutch is for someone who can’t shift gears.  I required my kids to know how to be very proficient in the use of the manual and how to change a tire - life time skills.

David- Welcome. A plywood camper- sweet, I remember when C4 had “RV camping”. I wondered in 74 and stayed a while. It was a magical time for climbers. One that will never be repeated.

Randy- clear thinking about vehicles.

Lori- I hope Tony’s visit to doctors had a positive outcome.

Todd Berlier wrote:

pretty sure. 

Cool… get the send! 

Lori Milaswrote:

Carl.  The same guy who writes fuck and beans poems cannot also write this: “I drove that ship (literally, wheel in hand) through typhoons in the South China Sea and through seas as calm as the bathwater and green with bioluminescence, air balmy and still... “

I know, right? I was rather taken aback by myself as well. I should have been a poet. My mate calls me 'the Trackside Wordsworth'. There's a bouldering area in The Grampians named Trackside.

Guy Keeseewrote:

Todd- great find!! Is it unclimbed?
Carl- cool story. I find that being in control of a ship is well- different. My friends would only let me drive when at sea. “Just look forward and keep the compass at 280”

And a clutch is for someone who can’t shift gears.  I required my kids to know how to be very proficient in the use of the manual and how to change a tire - life time skills.

David- Welcome. A plywood camper- sweet, I remember when C4 had “RV camping”. I wondered in 74 and stayed a while. It was a magical time for climbers. One that will never be repeated.

Randy- clear thinking about vehicles.

Lori- I hope Tony’s visit to doctors had a positive outcome.

Guy, morning drills with the destroyers was intense. We were a resupply ship, a converted oil tanker. 120 metres long, 12 stories high. The officer of the watch would dash from bridge wing to bridge wing (starboard to port) and back again shouting orders as he passed "10 degrees port!" "yes sir 10 degrees port sir" "5 degrees starboard!" "yes sir 5 degrees starboard!" as the destroyers woukd be zigzagging around us. 

We have a day in Australia called Melbourne cup day. It's a day on which a horse race, the Melbourne cup, is held. The whole nation stops to listen to it. You may have heard of it. Well, Melbourne Cup came about when we were at sea. So of course HMAS Westralia lined up with three destroyers to have a drag race. Needless to say we lost. 

Here she is. (oh, better keep it climbing related, went indoor bouldering last night. Felt strong.) 

do all your ships have roos painted on them? 

Well, because of Carl's prose I found myself searching for some lyrics to a beloved Donovan song,  There was a time when a friend would have pulled out a guitar as we all sat at Newport Beach, and played Sand and Foam.  

The sun was going down behind a tattoo tree

And the simple act of an oar's stroke put diamonds in the sea

And all because of phosphorus there in quantity

As I dug you digging me in Mexico.  

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We spent another day driving to and from Costa Mesa to meet with the Spine Surgeon.  We brought in the MRI, CT Scan and Xrays, and immediately the PA and the doctor saw something.  It's far more than just a poorly done fusion.  This particular problem would require 2 lengthy surgeries on 2 consecutive days. Recovery would be 1 full year.  70% chance he would walk and feel normal again.  And Tony hasn't been faking it... the problem is a big one.

This Spine Surgeon would not do the surgery... his partner specializes in this particular thing.  We are scheduled to meet with that doctor, back in Costa Mesa, on June 21.  Surgeries are booked out a month. In other words, it could happen fast. 

Tony shrugged his shoulders and said "Let's do it."  I tried to see if I could get more thoughts from him on the way home...  he's been silent ever since.  

Well, I have lots of thoughts.  At the moment, I'm pissed that he's stuck between a rock and a hard place.  He's miserable and disabled as he is.  But I'm starting to think about mortality long and hard.  What if, what if something happens to him...  how much can he take?    

I got two sentences out of him last night.  As he was falling asleep he said "I don't want to put you through this, Lori."  and... "I love Joshua Tree."  

Doctor did say he would need to be in his best fighting shape coming in.  The two of them seemed to think he can do this.  

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However, when we're talking cars, he can talk.  The "if money was no problem" question, it's the 1966 Shelby Cobra GT500.  

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Who knew???   Morrison owned a blue Shelby. 

Meanwhile, I came here to climb. (and much more).  It's slow, and it's frustrating... and the best I will ever do will be where many people start.  

We will be back on Turtle Rock today, god willing, working on Todd Gordon's Give a Mouse a Cookie route.  This one has everything Dog Day has, and then some. 

This is one of those routes that was an absolute NO for me as I looked at it while climbing an adjacent route, I couldn't take my eyes off it.  Very intimidating, and obviously too overhung, slab.  I had to at least scope it out while we were there on Wednesday.  

I'm laughing because after getting through part of the starting moves, Bob said "If this were an Olympics and they were grading on Form, that would get about a 4."     

I prefer to think of it as just needing a little polish.  I just need to smooth it out a bit.    

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Watching Bob climb the same route I saw something very subtle... he's able to go out on a limb because he has confidence that he'll manage the move.  There will be a hold, or a crimp... so he commits.  I'll work on this theory today, it's important to get it right.  I think there's a confidence that comes with long experience that allows you to take bigger risks.  His risks always work out. 

Hope the shoe-cam works today.  It's a hard route to film... nearly vertical, yet looks like a mole hill.  

PS.  Hey David!  Welcome!!! 

Randywrote:

Unless you are taking lots of road trips and/or driving on sketchy dirt roads, my criteria for a vehicle are: 1. Reliability, 2. Low Maintenance Costs, 3. Excellent Mileage, 4. Capacity for Camping & Climbing etc. equipment, 5.Comfort and 6. Cost.

since everybody is talking about cars, here’s my new one! I traded in a 2017 Honda HRV because the past year, I’ve realized the limited mobility in my upper back and neck is a real safety hazard. This new one has those flashing lights on both side mirrors that let’s you know another car is there. No more painful swiveling to check the blind spot. And I love the adaptive cruise control for LA freeway slow and go traffic.

This is my 4th Subaru. For climbing, I still use a 2011 Subaru Forrester with a manual transmission that I can flat tow behind the RV. 

Lori, best wishes for Tony and for you too. Dealing with a partner's injuries is hard work and stressful. Glad you're still getting out.

phylp phylp, I'm still driving my 2002 Subi (automatic, I'm one of those helpless cityfolk who never learned manual) and love it. Just city driving now, though it once handled rougher terrain. Gotta admit though that Bruce's newer Audi, which gives you information on what's behind and alongside you, is really nice.

Lori, a lot of climbing harder climbs is learning to 'trust'.  Some would call this learning to 'make believe'.  You put your hand or foot somewhere and make believe that it will stay.  If you believe strongly enough it will.  This is part of the mental control that is so much a part of harder climbing (along with not thinking about the consequences while climbing something scary).  It is what seperates the hard boys from the wanna be's and never will be's.

If you want to see how powerful this can be, go out to Future Games rock and look at the bottom 30 feet of the route Games without Frontiers.  Imagine how much belief it must take to get up that blankness.

Jan Mcwrote:

Lori, a lot of climbing harder climbs is learning to 'trust'.  Some would call this learning to 'make believe'.  You put your hand or foot somewhere and make believe that it will stay.  If you believe strongly enough it will.  This is part of the mental control that is so much a part of harder climbing (along with not thinking about the consequences while climbing something scary).  It is what seperates the hard boys from the wanna be's and never will be's.

If you want to see how powerful this can be, go out to Future Games rock and look at the bottom 30 feet of the route Games without Frontiers.  Imagine how much belief it must take to get up that blankness.

Jan you seem to capture this.  I know that climbing as a follower or on top rope almost doesn’t qualify.  But for me, knowing I won’t die on a route is so beside the point.  I am absorbed in climbing the route regardless, and it is always a powerful experience.  
So watching Bob suss out a route, I know that part of climbing it is just having so many tools in the tool chest—but part is that belief system you talk about.

I’m paying attention to minute moments of doubt, too, where it all falls apart.  Just that moment of question where you decide to let go, or just fall.  There’s a small edge on this route, about halfway up, that’s a huge effort to step up to.  But now I know that there was a moment when I looked at it and thought “Even if I can stand up on that edge, then what? There’s nothing after that!”  And that’s the point where I gave up.  

When Bob got to that same point he stepped up, and traversed on over, saying something about “it’s all here.”  He knew he’d find a way.

I’m intrigued by how progressively sheer these walls will be, and how developed the magical thinking (and skills) must be to scale them. It took enormous will to climb a 5.6 a few years back.  What’s a 5.11 look like? 

Jan Mcwrote:

Lori, a lot of climbing harder climbs is learning to 'trust'.  Some would call this learning to 'make believe'.  You put your hand or foot somewhere and make believe that it will stay.  If you believe strongly enough it will.  This is part of the mental control that is so much a part of harder climbing (along with not thinking about the consequences while climbing something scary).  It is what seperates the hard boys from the wanna be's and never will be's.

If you want to see how powerful this can be, go out to Future Games rock and look at the bottom 30 feet of the route Games without Frontiers.  Imagine how much belief it must take to get up that blankness.

I'm firmly in the never will be camp, realistically, but I defy reality almost every time I go out. Every time I lurch out of bed, some days. Simple stubbornness keeps me going.

Climbing, in a minor way, I face this every time I go elsewhere to climb. My local crap really will spit you off, if you think friction will save you. And, if it looks like it will snap off, yes, it will snap off in your hand, often enough.

But, City of Rocks? Wow! That black stuff on shoes really does something! Who knew????!? And bomber rock! Even the most improbably thin fin sticking up, won't become a souvenir to take home.

I've also learned that literally everywhere else I have climbed, is easier than the local greased glass basalt. 

Yet? 

Every single trip, every single time?

My brain has to reset to trust again. 

I climb mostly on top rope, so most of the time there is zero reason not to go for it. Even jump for something.

In terms of just believing?

One time, we were on slabby stuff, quite easy friction slab. The light was odd, and there was no telling what little nubbins were innies...or outies. How should I place that foot? Finally, I laughed at my stupidity, as either was totally bomber. First time I ever climbed just putting feet on anything at all that sorta looked like something, and assumed it wasn't just a spot of color. So much fun!

Besides trusting yourself? There's also trusting the rock....or choosing to accept it could spit you off, anywhere, anytime....and trusting anyway. The other biggie, is a partner you trust. That's pretty huge, and I'm guessing determines a "try hard" from a "just have fun", for most climbers.

Best, Helen

Lori Milaswrote:

Jan you seem to capture this.  I know that climbing as a follower or on top rope almost doesn’t qualify.  But for me, knowing I won’t die on a route is so beside the point.  I am absorbed in climbing the route regardless, and it is always a powerful experience.  
So watching Bob suss out a route, I know that part of climbing it is just having so many tools in the tool chest—but part is that belief system you talk about.

I’m paying attention to minute moments of doubt, too, where it all falls apart.  Just that moment of question where you decide to let go, or just fall.  There’s a small edge on this route, about halfway up, that’s a huge effort to step up to.  But now I know that there was a moment when I looked at it and thought “Even if I can stand up on that edge, then what? There’s nothing after that!”  And that’s the point where I gave up.  

When Bob got to that same point he stepped up, and traversed on over, saying something about “it’s all here.”  He knew he’d find a way.

I’m intrigued by how progressively sheer these walls will be, and how developed the magical thinking (and skills) must be to scale them. It took enormous will to climb a 5.6 a few years back.  What’s a 5.11 look like? 

This isn't my experience, as someone who climbs with normal people. Death isn't -quite- as likely, bar the really unlikely stuff, but injury sure is. I've had to weigh objective hazards plenty of times.

Even on that "safe" top rope.

But, I also go out to "wilder" places, and I'm willing to try to figure out how to make something work.

This thing we do is so fun!

Lori? The fact that you and I took up climbing at all, is pretty off the beaten path for standard old ladies.

That means you already made the choice to just go for it. Think it out, sure, but try not to second guess your badassedness!

And, best to you and Tony, pondering this next hurdle, eh? 

H.

Jan Mcwrote:

Lori, a lot of climbing harder climbs is learning to 'trust'.  Some would call this learning to 'make believe'.  You put your hand or foot somewhere and make believe that it will stay.  If you believe strongly enough it will.  This is part of the mental control that is so much a part of harder climbing (along with not thinking about the consequences while climbing something scary).  It is what seperates the hard boys from the wanna be's and never will be's.

If you want to see how powerful this can be, go out to Future Games rock and look at the bottom 30 feet of the route Games without Frontiers.  Imagine how much belief it must take to get up that blankness.

Yessss!  I have actually done this. Looked at the improbability, that is.  When I did that (probably 1990 or so), 13a was nearer the top of the YDS and I remember thinking "How does anyone climb that ?".  Now, not as much, but the skill to get up this climb is well beyond anything I could have ever achieved.  I then proceeded to struggle up the 5.8 next to it.

Jan Mcwrote:

Lori, a lot of climbing harder climbs is learning to 'trust'.  Some would call this learning to 'make believe'.  You put your hand or foot somewhere and make believe that it will stay.  If you believe strongly enough it will.  This is part of the mental control that is so much a part of harder climbing (along with not thinking about the consequences while climbing something scary).  It is what seperates the hard boys from the wanna be's and never will be's.

If you want to see how powerful this can be, go out to Future Games rock and look at the bottom 30 feet of the route Games without Frontiers.  Imagine how much belief it must take to get up that blankness.

This is the pitch to which Jan refers. Games Without Frontiers. A great Peter Gabriel song.

Jan and I bagged the 2nd ascent. It was established by the late, great Paul Borne. If he'd have just stuck with climbing, and tossed that paragliding stuff...   

Those were my signature red tights. I'd show up at the Danskin store in Hollywood about twice a year and buy four or five pairs. I got some funny looks for that.

Right there I'm imagining that my left foot will stick when I lift my right off the rock a step it up. Since that was my clean ascent, when Marc was there, it must have worked. Finally.

Photo by Marc Soltan

Kristian Solemwrote:

 I'd show up at the Danskin store in Hollywood 

Stopped reading right about there...

Pretty much everything this dude has put up in Idaho looks....improbable, highly improbable, to me! "Just" a 13something, too, iirc?

:-)

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

do all your ships have roos painted on them? 

Not sure actually. 

Lori, talking about comments like "it's all there" that's quite common, really. I think you have to sometimes remind yourself of the grade of a route you're climbing. If it's a 5.10a, for instance, and you normally climb that grade OK, and if you ate finding it hard, there's several possible reasons. You're off route (lost) or you're not seeing something. Sometimes, it's the tinyest move of a hand of fingers where you find a better part of a hold, or you can't see a hold (or footer) but as soon as you move up you DO see it. Doubt when climbing is, for me, more common when I lead. But when I'm on TR I really don't mind falling so much at all.. 

The story about Tony's surgery sounds positive..