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Favorite discontinued gear

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Steve Williams wrote:

I can't believe nobody said ALIENS!!!!!

They're still being made by fixe and have been updated multiple times to be a better cam. 

John Reeve · · Durango, formely from TX · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 15
that guy named seb wrote:

They're still being made by fixe and have been updated multiple times to be a better cam. 

I have a set of locally-sourced, hand-produced artisinal aliens that one of my older friends gave me as a gift when he moved on from Durango.

They are really cool, and in quite good condition.  But I think the current ones are quite improved.

pfwein Weinberg · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 71
Miles Altivolus wrote:

Well said. My theory: Decades of functional validation is often not strong enough to garner sales against modern marketing and Gucci design e.g., Forged Friends - especially the final iteration (circa 97'), easily outlast any cam made in the last 30 years, but their alleged unsuitability for horizontals was so overblown that it degraded sales. (Horizontal slots are often deep enough that the entire cam stem is supported. duh) And, that forged stem was undoubtedly more expensive to make than a piece of cable. I have at least 30 of them still raring to go...most re-slung with Dyneema 3 or 4 times.

Have you had problems with the stems of cams wearing out? Perhaps some do, but I'd think that would be very rare and the cam lobes would wear out first.

Emil Alejandria · · Oakland, CA · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 2
Matthew Jaggers wrote:

9.5?

Is that sizing for their made in USA or made in China shoes? I have a made in China 9.5 I'm trying to sell

RJNakata · · SoCal · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 460
Miles Altivolus wrote:

Agreed. Only reason I don't have a pair is that I figure I'd have order 4 or 5 pair to figure out the fit. (Supposedly weird sizing.) I'm a 44 in TC's. Any feedback on JB size?

Regarding Acopa JB's: I have MP26.5 feet (ie they are 26.5cm long).  Length-wise I fit a JB in 10.5 (EUR 45.25). This is for a trad comfort fit assuming no stretch (they are lined).  Length-wise a TC in 42.5 is about the same comfort fit for me, but the toe of the TC is too narrow (for me).  

Anyway, it was really heartening to see Acopa coming back after facing adversity amidst the loss of John Bachar and their founder within a few months.  I thought they were gone forever  They restarted just before covid and seem to have made it through...even added a few models.

Connor Dobson · · Louisville, CO · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 269
Miles Altivolus wrote:

Well said. My theory: Decades of functional validation is often not strong enough to garner sales against modern marketing and Gucci design e.g., Forged Friends - especially the final iteration (circa 97'), easily outlast any cam made in the last 30 years, but their alleged unsuitability for horizontals was so overblown that it degraded sales. (Horizontal slots are often deep enough that the entire cam stem is supported. duh) And, that forged stem was undoubtedly more expensive to make than a piece of cable. I have at least 30 of them still raring to go...most re-slung with Dyneema 3 or 4 times.

I mean I'm no amazing trad climber but modern cams place so much easier than rigids and will place in many more spots than a rigid will. I don't know why anyone would want to specifically use rigid stems other than a cheap beginner rack or for retro points. 

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 363

The La Sportiva Tao was my favorite shoe.   Fit was amazing.  

Patrick L · · Idyllwild · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

To everyone saying ushba nut tool, check ebay. They're available. Is there something special other than they're titanium? They're $37 after shipping. 

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695
Emil Alejandria wrote:

Is that sizing for their made in USA or made in China shoes? I have a made in China 9.5 I'm trying to sell

I'm actually the same in both. Barely changed at all with the Chinese version. Send me a DM with your asking price.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Well it's happened, arcteryx discontinued the alpha fl, jacket, the best jacket on the market, stripped back and really light while still being adequately durable and protective. I will treasure mine for years to come.   

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2

Scarpa Dominators

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Boreal Ballet Golds, the last of the board lasted climbing shoes. I love these things. I still have an operational pair probably good for 2 or more resoles and a brand new pair in the stock room! Brings a tear to my eye...

Nathan Doyle · · Gold Country, CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 57

Did anyone mention the Silent Partner? That one seems to be fairly popular, judging by the price they go for these days.

Victor Machtel · · Netherlands · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0
that guy named seb wrote:

Well it's happened, arcteryx discontinued the alpha fl, jacket, the best jacket on the market, stripped back and really light while still being adequately durable and protective. I will treasure mine for years to come.   

Wait they did WHAT? 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Victor Machtel wrote:

Wait they did WHAT? 

Replaced with the almost universally inferior alpha sl pull over it seems. 

Melanie Shea · · Denver · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10
Cherokee Nunes wrote:

Boreal Ballet Golds, the last of the board lasted climbing shoes. I love these things. I still have an operational pair probably good for 2 or more resoles and a brand new pair in the stock room! Brings a tear to my eye...

I think the Butora Mantra & Altura are board-lasted.

Victor Machtel · · Netherlands · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0
that guy named seb wrote:

Replaced with the almost universally inferior alpha sl pull over it seems. 

That's a shame. Anoraks have their uses but they are nowhere near as versatile as a normal jacket. 

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0
Melanie Shea wrote:

I think the Butora Mantra & Altura are board-lasted.

From butora website re the Altura:

Slip last construction will give you all day performance and comfort.

And from Butora webside re the Mantra:

The asymmetrical last and stiff midsole provide all-day support, and with a German hydrovelour split leather, 100% organic hemp lining, and board-last construction, t

Thanks Greg. I will definitely check the Mantra at some point.

Patrick L · · Idyllwild · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0
Not Hobo Greg wrote:

Yea but it’s discontinued! It went from “bionic alpine” to “eiger nordwand” to “nordwand” to “out of stock” without ever actually changing anything besides the color.

If you search "mammut norwand" on amazon you'll find these still, and if you go to "see all buying options" you can get them for $25 with free shipping. I saw you bought a bunch of em but I know you're a guide, or maybe others are trying to find them. 

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

The  small 3CU BD cams. Red and yellow are my favorites.  I  bought another  4cu yellow BD and its smaller  than the yellow 3CU But wider.  The yellow 4cu is same size as purple  metulios. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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