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Favorite discontinued gear

John Reeve · · Durango, formely from TX · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 15
Marc801 C wrote:

Boreal Aces

I had some back in the 90s, but I really sucked at climbing back then and they were, like, hella sized down.  I'm curious what it'd be like to climb with them again.  If I could get them in a size that isn't physically painful.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
John Reeve wrote:

I had some back in the 90s, but I really sucked at climbing back then and they were, like, hella sized down.  I'm curious what it'd be like to climb with them again.  If I could get them in a size that isn't physically painful.

Those things were like climbing with a 2x4 under foot. I don’t miss them one bit.

Live Perched · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 21
caughtinside wrote:

So what you're really saying is you want to go back to 1991?

1991 was amazing.  Ignore climbing and the whole gist of MP and this thread and think rock n roll, hip hop, grunge style, super models, movies.  Go back to 1991...hells yeah.  “If you want the ultimate, you have to be willing to pay the ultimate price.  It’s not tragic to die doing what you love.” Bohdi - Point Break. That line wasn’t mealy mouthed ironic.  It was just over the top ridiculous. 2021 just sucks by comparison.  Cancel Millennial Culture, Gen X forever!!! 

PWZ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
Live Perched wrote:

1991 was amazing.  Ignore climbing and the whole gist of MP and this thread and think rock n roll, hip hop, grunge style, super models, movies.  Go back to 1991...hells yeah.  “If you want the ultimate, you have to be willing to pay the ultimate price.  It’s not tragic to die doing what you love.” Bohdi - Point Break. That line wasn’t mealy mouthed ironic.  It was just over the top ridiculous. 2021 just sucks by comparison.  Cancel Millennial Culture, Gen X forever!!! 

Cool story, uncle Rico

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2
bearded sam wrote:

Can we please be better than using derogatory female language to express displeasure? I understand frustration but as men, we can and must do better. 

Good luck with that mate.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
csproul wrote:

Those things were like climbing with a 2x4 under foot. I don’t miss them one bit.

I went from EB's -> Fires -> La Sportiva Mariachers -> Aces plus some bad purchases along the way (Red Chillies, an Evolve, and a pair of 5.Tens). Loved the Aces (still have a pair) as they were the best fitting shoes for me ever. 2x4 underfoot? Hardly, as I managed to climb 5.11s that get modern grades of mid-12 and Tuolumne and GPA run-out 5.10s in them. I've tried some of the modern nonsense of aggressive down-turn and wildly asymmetric and all those do is make me cry and hate life.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
caughtinside wrote:

So what you're really saying is you want to go back to 1991?

Not at all, but those were great pieces of gear and clothing.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
Marc801 C wrote:

I went from EB's -> Fires -> La Sportiva Mariachers -> Aces plus some bad purchases along the way (Red Chillies, an Evolve, and a pair of 5.Tens). Loved the Aces (still have a pair) as they were the best fitting shoes for me ever. 2x4 underfoot? Hardly, as I managed to climb 5.11s that get modern grades of mid-12 and Tuolumne and GPA run-out 5.10s in them. I've tried some of the modern nonsense of aggressive down-turn and wildly asymmetric and all those do is make me cry and hate life.

Power to you, you probably use your feet a lot better than I do. They fit great and were pretty comfortable, so I guess I didn’t mind them for long easy climbing. I wore them for a period of about 10 years after Mariachers as well ( don’t miss those either). The bottoms were just too thick/stiff for my taste. I know a lot of people don’t mid a loss of sensitivity for the sake of good edging, but I’m not one of those people.  

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,697
csproul wrote:

Power to you, you probably use your feet a lot better than I do. They fit great and were pretty comfortable, so I guess I didn’t mind them for long easy climbing. I wore them for a period of about 10 years after Mariachers as well ( don’t miss those either). The bottoms were just too thick/stiff for my taste. I know a lot of people don’t mid a loss of sensitivity for the sake of good edging, but I’m not one of those people.  

I suspect I'm not the only Ace-lover who gets a kick out of the current embrace of stiffer shoes like the TC Pro. Clearly there's a soft/stiff/soft/stiff pendulum when it comes to what the average climber wants in their rock shoes. One big difference between then and now - the Aces didn't really shine until you resoled them with Stealth rubber.

Moshe Beh · · Boulder colorado · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 46

To be honest friends the good old days although cams are much better it was cool when friends came out

timothy fisher · · CHARLOTTE · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 30
Gunkiemike wrote:

I suspect I'm not the only Ace-lover who gets a kick out of the current embrace of stiffer shoes like the TC Pro. Clearly there's a soft/stiff/soft/stiff pendulum when it comes to what the average climber wants in their rock shoes. One big difference between then and now - the Aces didn't really shine until you resoled them with Stealth rubber.

For me the La Sportiva Syncro was the ultimate low top stiff shoe. Have a pair that is a bit too tight that i am trying to stretch. They do have cardboard midsole that does not stay stiff forever but the narrower symetric fit was ideal for hard face climbing. Asymetric shoes dont back edge for fuckall.

GabeO · · Boston, MA · Joined May 2006 · Points: 302
Jon Rhoderick wrote:

Five Ten Super Mocc

Why doesn’t anyone make a rand like this for thin cracks?

I did post Supermoccs earlier.

To answer your question - I think resoling them sucks.  Apparently they kinda just fall apart when you take the old sole off.  I have a couple pairs, and only wear them on cracks where they're the right size.  So hopefully they'll last a while even without resoling.

GO

GabeO · · Boston, MA · Joined May 2006 · Points: 302
caughtinside wrote:

That's surprising.  I figured they were exactly the same as moccs, but with the thinner mystique rubber and the larger rand/toe cover.  Not sure why they would fall apart, I've resoled my moccs a bunch. 

I believe they are not the same.  Here's more info:  resoling supermoccs

GO

Jens 1 · · . · Joined May 2009 · Points: 482

As for the Boreal Aces, I much preferred a shoe of the same style from the same era.  The beloved green Asolo Runout 1’s.

We’ve really had no advances in gear since 1983. By 83’ we had sticky rubber, small cams, light large cams, reverse curve modular ice tools, gore tex, skinny ropes, light harnesses, modern quick draws, & good expedition gear. 

Luke M · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 25
Matthew Jaggers wrote:

 

I have a pair for sale!

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695
Luke M wrote:

I have a pair for sale!

9.5?

Luke M · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 25
Matthew Jaggers wrote:

9.5?

10.5 :(

RJNakata · · SoCal · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 460

Acopa JB...discontinued, then revived!  ... since when has anything great been brought back?!

Mack Johnson · · Silverdale, WA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 1,061

Pacific Motion MagBags.  By far the best chalk bag closure system --- snap a plastic half-circle open or closed with one finger.  Close your chalk bag for the sit start or the chimney thrash, then pop it right open.  They were only made for a few years.  The plastic wears out the fabric holding it together in a few years, but I would buy several any time they pop up.

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

I can't believe nobody said ALIENS!!!!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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