Classic SoCal moderates

What’s your favorite SoCal moderate? Any obscurities? 

It sure ain't obscure but I'm going with .........

Hoodenett !! aka "Whodunit"

Nice climbin yesterday, bud .. heh .. !

P.S. If we can include something as far north as Domelands in the equation, I will go with Kaopectate Blues (splitter) + Mike Mason Memorial Route (face/dike). Combined these two routes make for an outstanding couple of days in the backcountry.

Not necessarily socal, but southern Sierra.... south face/south cracks/south chimney on Moro Rock. All three are super classic! 

jt newgardwrote:

It sure ain't obscure but I'm going with .........

Hoodenett !! aka "Whodunit"

Nice climbin yesterday, bud .. heh .. !

P.S. If we can include something as far north as Domelands in the equation, I will go with Kaopectate Blues (splitter) + Mike Mason Memorial Route (face/dike). Combined these two routes make for an outstanding couple of days in the backcountry.

Haha yes JT!! So fun yesterday. We need to do a socal classic gumby tour.

I've always been intrigued by the Domelands. Let's get out there one of these days. 

Paul Webberwrote:

Not necessarily socal, but southern Sierra.... south face/south cracks/south chimney on Moro Rock. All three are super classic! 

What's up Paul. Friends with Chad and Sean right? I always heard great things about those Seki routes. Especially a bit deeper near Hamilton Lakes. Haven't been to Moro yet but looks like a blast.

• That’s right. There’s excellent backcountry climbing to be had up this way. The routes on moro have a short-ish approach, then you get to take the stairs down to the parking lot.  I caught a case of the kids, so I’m lucky to get a half day at the crag anymore.   

At Voodoo Dome- everyone knows about WPOD... but I think this one is better- Summer Sojourn. 

And Moro Rock- don’t like climbing on crispy lichen black rocks, or doing no bolt face climbing (thanks Richard L.) .. so keep driving and head on north on the General’s Highway until you get to Chimney Spire. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/107880594/chimney-spire

More “moderate” climbing at Crystal Crag... same parking/camping as Chimney.

Have fun- so much to do north of the 58 Hwy. Sherman Pass, Poison Dome, Church Dome, DanLand, Kern Slab, Eagle Peak - so many places to go to- these are on MP - a whole bunch of lesser crags are knott.

Get cracking 

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/107880594/chimney-spire 

This is a list of “Moderate Climbs” if ya wish to include 5.11.... heck one of the best ones is at DanLand - Racetrack crack- two pitches of pure digital torture - one of the best crack climbs south of the Valley. 

Paul Webberwrote:

• That’s right. There’s excellent backcountry climbing to be had up this way. The routes on moro have a short-ish approach, then you get to take the stairs down to the parking lot.  I caught a case of the kids, so I’m lucky to get a half day at the crag anymore.   

Aw man I feel you. I caught a severe case of the kids as well. Let’s try to link up one of these days when our schedules somehow coincide. We can go out and flail on 5.9 and talk about paw patrol and whatnot.

Here’s a list of my favorites so far.

Idyllwild: coffin nail to traitor horn, whodunnit, open book, flower of high rank

Needles: white punks on dope

Eagle peak: cruise line, baby face

The entire hill of Mount Woodson

Drew Alldredge wrote:

Hermit Spire, South Face doesn't quite have the pure symmetry of WPOD or Igor Unchained and all the well traveled beta and advertisment of Whodunnit and Open Book.  It's a bit of a grind but has unique aesthetics and the top-out block is a classic.

That is a terrific route.  Did it too many years ago to remember exactly. But you’re right, not a super classic but a worthy adventure.  

Fat Dadwrote:

That is a terrific route.  Did it too many years ago to remember exactly. But you’re right, not a super classic but a worthy adventure.  

Last time I did this route. I was starting the summit block and that's when the big earthquake that hit Ridgecrest happened. That entire rock felt like a tuning fork. I could hear the rock grinding, and small rock falls across the gully. we didn't want to hang around too long, not knowing if there'd be aftershocks. Quickly rapped off the side, grabbed gear and hightailed it. 

Might not be classic, but memorable... Absolutely.

Dunder Thunderwrote:

Last time I did this route. I was starting the summit block and that's when the big earthquake that hit Ridgecrest happened. That entire rock felt like a tuning fork. I could hear the rock grinding, and small rock falls across the gully. we didn't want to hang around too long, not knowing if there'd be aftershocks. Quickly rapped off the side, grabbed gear and hightailed it. 

Might not be classic, but memorable... Absolutely.

I was down the road in Camp Nelson when that hit.  That was memorable.

The Tree Route on Dome Rock might qualify as an easy classic.   Only 5.6 but really good fun.  At Tahquitz, the Jam Crack to Piton Pooper to Upper Royal Arches is a terrific link up.

So much to climb, so little time.

And to you guys with kids... they grow up, just stay “in-shape” 

A Suicide rock classic that doesn't see a lot of ascents is Mickey Mantle. 5.8R****. FA by "Mad Dog" Jim Wilson and Phil Warrender, two climbers not burdened with a reluctance for adventure.

It's best to be solid at the grade.

Major, over on the S Face of Suicide is a way under rated climb.  And goes at 7+, as long as you are good with "that" type of climbing.

Munge Dihedral and Jammit over on Le Dent Pinnacle are also spectacular 5.9ish routes... doubt you will ever have a crowd at any of these routes...