No one knows what classic climbing is anymore

All of my past projects are classics

Rocrateswrote:

Fair enough, but the other factors are usually something like a brutal approach, incredible exposure or massive runouts.  These things are noticeably absent from the lines I’m talking about. 

Also off the mark there, dude.  Maybe you need to think about this some more. 

If you would not travel a full day to climb/attempt just that one route, it is NOT a classic. 

Trevor Taylorwrote:

Roc you probably think you are Karen in this situation. Your actually the yappy dog...

But that shit ain't the truth. The truth is he’s the weak. And choss is the tyranny of evil men. But choss is tryin, Trevor.  Choss is tryin' real hard to be the shepherd.

More interesting I think is the 99% correlation of grade to stars. Not sure you could find a 2-star 5.12 on MP. And of course every 5.13 is classic. Doesn't really bother me, but it's interesting to see the bias of stars for limit climbing.

Trevor Taylorwrote:

This reminds me a lot of my moms friend, I think her name is Karen and she has a yappy toy poodle. Karen won’t shut up about how the Bordeaux is so much better than Napa wine. Well I guess, but not everyone can buy $200 bottles of wine sometimes your wine is Mike’s harder grape flavor and if that makes you happy why waste energy on Karen’s wine. Roc you probably think you are Karen in this situation. Your actually the yappy dog barking up the wrong tree.

Also I trundled a car today if that isn’t classic I don’t know what is.

Well Trevor thank you for your opinion.  Prophets are never respected in their time so a fair amount of backlash for my campaign is to be expected.  Also, it’s all fun and games until your favorite choss project gets a squeeze job from someone who is merely taking the problem I’m describing one step further.

Rocrateswrote:

Concerned.  If someone else sees you enjoying it they might think it’s classic and fall into this trap. 

I see. Then I'll just make sure to bring half a dozen bluetooth speakers, start a fire at the base of the cliff & have an unleashed dog barking at the drone that's filming my flailings. Should be enough of a repellent.

De Petra Non Es Disputandem.

Kristian Solemwrote:

De Petra Non Es Disputandem.

De petra numquam disputeam.  Volo solum veritatem narrare.

Can a beginner climber really try and tell the masses what is classic now.  I hate to say I'm a moderate climber but 12b is basically the new 5.10.  So a person who can't climb modern moderates isn't really in any position to decide what's classic.  

It's like the fat kid in "Super 8" running around saying everything was "mint."

STFU kid.

Yeah but my next proj is MEGA CLASSIC! The proj before was only super classic. I dont even warm up on climbs that arent 4 stars.

Tim Stichwrote:

It's like the fat kid in "Super 8" running around saying everything was "mint."

STFU kid.

I should have known someone from Chossorado would take this pretty hard. 

TBH, I find the idea that you're gonna shame me out enjoying the shit I like to climb fairly entertaining.

That is the quality content that keeps me coming back to this site again and again.

Francois Dumaswrote:

Si you miss the good ol' days where pounding pins was the way and to climb a classic you had to destroy a part of it in a kind of love hate relationship. 

#OkBoomer

Lol cams have been around since the late 70s about. People still use pins, not everything should be bolted. If it can be naturally protected, it should not really be bolted in my opinion. The days of pounding pitons in the valley is pretty far back at this point. OP is talking about the fact that some people just bolt shit that doesn't need to be bolted.

Rocrateswrote:

So what can we do?  First of all, if you see someone on one of these mediocre lines, the simplest and most effective remedy is to shame them after they get back down.  Let them know that they should wipe that smile off their face, and that the route they were stoked to climb actually sucks.

I get that this is a troll post, but I find it really lame to joke about shaming people for having a good time. Wipe the smile off their face? Sure, shame the developer if you think their routes are all duds, but the people who are actually enjoying it? If people are enjoying the route, then the route is serving its purpose... and also lessening stress/traffic/polishing/base-erosion on the real classics. 

Yes, we dont want a bunch of squeeze jobs and lame routes out there, but I dong think that is really the main point of your post. From my perspective, there’s a prevalent bro/elitist culture in climbing that tends to become really draining and doesn’t have much positive influence on anything but one’s own ego. Troll or not, perhaps consider your motivations on this post. 

Rocrateswrote:

I should have known someone from Chossorado would take this pretty hard. 

You obviously didn't get the film reference. Basically, the kid overused the word mint for everything, even lame shit.

A V wrote:

The mountains are all choss (yes, even the granite ones) and are the only climbs that actually exhibit all of what you’re highlighting here.

Therefore, by your logic, choss is classic.

The list is not exhaustive, and any given climb does not need every attribute to be classic.  Freerider, for example, is a classic without a brutal approach.  Trench Warfare is a classic without any exposure, etc.  While some alpine routes may be a bit loose, other factors make these routes better and to some extent overshadow the bad rock quality in places.  

That being said, I'm not super worried about alpine routes and how they relate to the problem I'm describing, since (1) you just don't see a ton of alpine development that detracts from our notion of classic climbing and (2) these routes generally don't involve grid bolting choss.

Rocrateswrote:

The list is not exhaustive, and any given climb does not need every attribute to be classic.  Freerider, for example, is a classic without a brutal approach.  Trench Warfare is a classic without any exposure, etc.  While some alpine routes may be a bit loose, other factors make these routes better and to some extent overshadow the bad rock quality in places.  

That being said, I'm not super worried about alpine routes and how they relate to the problem I'm describing, since (1) you just don't see a ton of alpine development that detracts from our notion of classic climbing and (2) these routes generally don't involve grid bolting choss.

Grid bolting choss is so hard. It just flakes off after you put the bolts in.

I've definitely climbed a few chossy grid bolted classics but they are few and far between. Kinda like flukes, it was just going to be another line like the rest and then some shit fell off and all the sudden it was really good.