Thoughts on a grade and whether or not I'm likely to struggle

Hey,

Not really an aid climber, so just thought I'd get some perspective. The grade is 5.11 with good gear or 5.7 A1 - I think in both cases fairly sustained (e.g. it's not a one-move wonder). I can generally climb 5.11. Reasonably confident I do the moves, though maybe not.

The things is that I don't have aid gear - if I end up aiding it, it'll have to be whatever I can do with a standard rack. So if it's rate A1 (and it's a fairly consistent grade), is naïve to think that help with pulling my gear would be helpful? In other words, does whatever I can do as A0 likely to help a little, or is it going to feel completely useless for A1 moves? Or does it depend on the specific climb so much it's a pointless question?

I feel like this is super, super route-dependent.

My experience has been that the recommended rack for free climbing typically works for pulling through a pitch I can't send.  Especially if I'm comfortable with some mild runouts on A1 terrain.  I'd assume that if a pitch of 5.7 A1  goes free at 5.11, it means that it's pretty splitter and pretty sustained, (like you said) so as long as you're tactical with which pieces you leave behind and are willing to lower down and back clean if absolutely necessary, you should be fine if you don't send and have to A0 the pitch.  Another thought is that if you typically do send 5.11, it'll probably be relatively easy for you to go 'bolt to bolt' and just free climb between the placements you'd normally place freeing the pitch.  I'm not sure it's actually that specific.  If it's a sustained pitch of 5.11, that probably means the moves aren't really that hard, but it's continuous, so hang-dogging the pitch should be pretty straightforward.

I think looking at a topo would give you a better idea than a general speculation. I’ve slowly aided 5.13 pitches with ease but mandatory 5.9 off width/chimney might be a show stopper. 5.11 with an aid rack is harder a free rack. French free climbing is weird at first if you are used to standing in aiders, but it sounds like that won’t be a problem.

What route or area do you have in mind?

It's not in mp and the topo I have only says the grade of the pitch. Thanks for the input, seems it's worth a go. Someone I talked to says the pitch is pretty sustained both ways. Didn't think about asking how A0/a1 relates... Regardless bwill be fun.

After reflection, my answer was pretty lazy and I agree completely with what Max said. Well thought out an accurate IME.

Maybe buy Aiders and just treat the pitch (pitches?) as a “learn to aid climb” exercise?

See you on the DarkSide