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Sunshine Wall UT Petroglyph Bolting

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Peter Beal · · Boulder Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,825

https://www.facebook.com/stewart.m.green/posts/10159262827618166

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/120459998/peaches-do-not-climb

EDIT:
Photos, news update

Since the route was deleted, I am adding, for now, photos by Darrin Reay, who first reported this. Word is that Gilbert has approached the BLM about doing what he can to undo the damage he has caused. Darrin has removed these and adjacent bolts as well.

Grug M · · SALT LAKE CITY · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 5

Looking through his pictures demonstrates his monumental ignorance.

1. Parking/camping all over the desert and likely crypto-biotic soil.

2. Bolting a perfectly good chimney and complaining about the difficulty of said bolting process. 

3. Bolting a fucking anchor right next to a fucking petroglyph. Wtf is wrong with this guy? 

Note he is from Colorado Springs and has a NOLS hat...not surprising at all...

4. Digging an illegal fire pit at the base of the wall. 

5. Bolting multiple cracks. Dear lord this guy.........

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

did you see the photos andy novak posted of the ropes running straight down through petroglyphs, and a bolt literally inches from a petroglyph in the other thread.  what an asshole.  what kind of dipshit does something like this?

Matt Wetmore · · Traveling · Joined May 2017 · Points: 565

Considering he thought a petroglyph was graffiti maybe he was just very ignorant? See comments on mountainproject.com/route/1…

Sam Rumel · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 15

Oh man that was the same asshole who tried to argue with everyone on here when Moab asked people to stay home at the start of the pandemic.

Matt Wetmore · · Traveling · Joined May 2017 · Points: 565

If we are piling on here he also misspelled "corona". mountainproject.com/route/1…

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635

This guy needs to get banned from MP and then prosecuted to the max of the law. Just when you think that the hordes of bottomfeeders slinking around Moab can’t get any worse...

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

I deleted the routes on the slab as well as any photos that mention them.  This was without question the worst display of judgment i've ever seen by a route developer.  Absolutely shameful.  I'm fairly inclined to delete the whole area to keep those petroglyphs off the radar - any objections before i swing the axe?

Nkane 1 · · East Bay, CA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 475

It might be worth keeping the area posted with a clear access warning saying that petroglyphs are present and that any routes there will be removed? To keep future FA hunters at bay?

Does the Access Fund or a local climbing org have best practices for this situation? I feel like they should.

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
Grug Mwrote:

Looking through his pictures demonstrates his monumental ignorance.

1. Parking/camping all over the desert and likely crypto-biotic soil.

2. Bolting a perfectly good chimney and complaining about the difficulty of said bolting process. 

3. Bolting a fucking anchor right next to a fucking petroglyph. Wtf is wrong with this guy? 

Note he is from Colorado Springs and has a NOLS hat...not surprising at all...

4. Digging an illegal fire pit at the base of the wall. 

5. Bolting multiple cracks. Dear lord this guy.........

What's wrong with NOLS?

Bolting Karen · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 61

Hey all, I think there will be a knee jerk reaction to get out there and fix it from some of the locals. Please don't, let the investigation run its course and the land managers take appropriate action to finalize the bolt removal. We don't need to make any more of a mess that has already happened.

Jack Servedio · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 40

In addition to all of the other stuff that establishes Richard Gilbert as a gargantuan piece of shit, he even had the audacity to claim that he was the FA after retrobolting a route put up as a solo a thousand years before...

Edit: There's even a summit register carved into the fucking rock next to your anchor you asshole.

Bolting Karen · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 61
Jack Servediowrote:

In addition to all of the other stuff that establishes Richard Gilbert as a gargantuan piece of shit, he even had the audacity to claim that he was the FA after retrobolting a route put up as a solo a thousand years before...

fucking brilliant.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Andrew Grahm. is there a record of his posts and photos? BLM is going to need that to lock him up. 

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756

For everyone with their pitchforks out maybe chill and this let it run its course, sending the guy a million DMs isn't gonna fix this. On the facebook page someone said, "I've been trading messages the past few minutes with Mr. Gilbert, who reached out to me an hour ago. He said that he is on his way "to Moab right now to get this all taken care of" and that "I want to make sure I do this right!" I advised him to stop at the Moab BLM office before doing anything and talk to them about the situation and he said that he "definitely plan on stopping by the BLM office and talking to them!" I told him I would talk with him later today. I think he realizes the seriousness of his actions and is willing to accept the consequences and make good as best as possible. "

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100
Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

For everyone with their pitchforks out maybe chill and this let it run its course, sending the guy a million DMs isn't gonna fix this. On the facebook page someone said, "I've been trading messages the past few minutes with Mr. Gilbert, who reached out to me an hour ago. He said that he is on his way "to Moab right now to get this all taken care of" and that "I want to make sure I do this right!" I advised him to stop at the Moab BLM office before doing anything and talk to them about the situation and he said that he "definitely plan on stopping by the BLM office and talking to them!" I told him I would talk with him later today. I think he realizes the seriousness of his actions and is willing to accept the consequences and make good as best as possible. "

He should do nothing other than let the BLM know how to contact him. The reason being is that at this point what he has done is potentially a federal offense. Removing the anchors could 1) do more damage 2) be seen as tampering with the evidence. 

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

I am in wonderment of how the petroglyphs got up there in the first place. Good job.

In this day and age anybody who would even contemplate putting a climb over these, beautiful petroglyphs has no clue.

The history of North America is written in stone. I sometimes feel very connected to “the people who came before” I love to just sit and admire and wonder what these are trying to say to me.

Edit to add: 5.3!!!! OMG!!!! So people are bolting 5.3 now. 

Michael Rush · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2020 · Points: 0
Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

For everyone with their pitchforks out maybe chill and this let it run its course, sending the guy a million DMs isn't gonna fix this. On the facebook page someone said, "I've been trading messages the past few minutes with Mr. Gilbert, who reached out to me an hour ago. He said that he is on his way "to Moab right now to get this all taken care of" and that "I want to make sure I do this right!" I advised him to stop at the Moab BLM office before doing anything and talk to them about the situation and he said that he "definitely plan on stopping by the BLM office and talking to them!" I told him I would talk with him later today. I think he realizes the seriousness of his actions and is willing to accept the consequences and make good as best as possible. "

Sounds like the pitchforks were what got him to drive down there and take care of it, whatever that means, seeing his previous lack of judgment. 

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2
Kevin Beverly wrote:

Everyone missing the bigger issue.  MP and other social media sites make access worse by providing a platform for people to spray about their law breaking activities.  January 6th ring a bell for anyone?

So what you are saying is many people like this wouldnt bolt if they couldnt spray about all the FAs? Hmmmm, you may be on to something!

Its surely baffling that someone with enough experience to bolt lines couldnt see the ancient art. 

Trevor Taylor · · Seattle, WA · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 0
Michael Rushwrote:

Sounds like the pitchforks were what got him to drive down there and take care of it, whatever that means, seeing his previous lack of judgment. 

You see a child about to eat a lego, you yell at him to not eat the lego. If he sets down the lego probably wise to stop yelling at him.

To Allen point being we should probably leave it alone, blm probably knows how to contact him.

To those that think this is a crime it probably is. He will probably get a fine like all the other tourists that have done dumb stuff on public land. At this point whether the bolts are there or not there is plenty of evidence. I would defer to the land manager. Aiming all your negative energy on something you can’t impact is a waste of time maybe go pick up some litter at your crag.

Michael Rush · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2020 · Points: 0
Trevor Taylorwrote:

You see a child about to eat a lego, you yell at him to not eat the lego. If he sets down the lego probably wise to stop yelling at him.

To Allen point being we should probably leave it alone, blm probably knows how to contact him.

To those that think this is a crime it probably is. He will probably get a fine like all the other tourists that have done dumb stuff on public land. At this point whether the bolts are there or not there is plenty of evidence. I would defer to the land manager. Aiming all your negative energy on something you can’t impact is a waste of time maybe go pick up some litter at your crag.

First of all, I don’t yell at kids.

Second, when I hear someone use the word probably 4 times in 3 paragraphs,  it turns in to speculation bs.

Why are you defending this guy and his actions?

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