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The latest, greatest 2:1 hauling kit

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,042
Andy Wiesner wrote:

Also, general question: Is it OK to hang 2-300 lbs from the top partner the way you have it? 

Considering the Partner has a breaking strength of 15kn and the (what I assume is) 7mm cord connecting the Partner which has a breaking strength of  around 20kn (depending on the brand and accounting for the tied loop configuration and around 14kn if it's 6mm cord)...

I'd say yes. Is there something in the configuration that is specifically making you question it's strength/safety?

Andy Wiesner · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 35
kevin deweese wrote:

Considering the Partner has a breaking strength of 15kn and the (what I assume is) 7mm cord connecting the Partner which has a breaking strength of  around 20kn (depending on the brand and accounting for the tied loop configuration and around 14kn if it's 6mm cord)...

I'd say yes. Is there something in the configuration that is specifically making you question it's strength/safety?

No, not with any strong conviction. I suppose I was hoping to elicit examples of other applications where it's used this way.

Tomer Grossman · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 11
kevin deweese wrote:

Considering the Partner has a breaking strength of 15kn and the (what I assume is) 7mm cord connecting the Partner which has a breaking strength of  around 20kn (depending on the brand and accounting for the tied loop configuration and around 14kn if it's 6mm cord)...

I'd say yes. Is there something in the configuration that is specifically making you question it's strength/safety?

I have used a similar configuration but with the rescue pulley as the top pulley. After very few hauls I noticed the cord connecting the top pulley to the carabiner starting to rip (and backed it up with a draw and another cord...). If using this configuration I think it is a good idea to tape the top of the pulley, as it is a little sharp inside and can slowly cut the cord.

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,042
Tomer Grossman wrote:

I have used a similar configuration but with the rescue pulley as the top pulley. After very few hauls I noticed the cord connecting the top pulley to the carabiner starting to rip (and backed it up with a draw and another cord...). If using this configuration I think it is a good idea to tape the top of the pulley, as it is a little sharp inside and can slowly cut the cord.

I used a cord in this configuration before moving to the rock exotics swivel pulley and had similar concerns (but never saw the issue you had happening in my particular case) so I just doubled the loop and tied a knot in the middle of the loop so if one of the strands did break the whole system wouldn't fail and I'd have time to correct it on the wall. 

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

One of the beautiful things about bigwall climbing is the ability to fine tune any of the systems to your exact liking. what you like to use is probably different from anyone else’s.  
If you don’t like a swivel, don’t use one.
If you like a doubled up sling or cord, use one.  
Don’t let analysis paralysis or the toolbox fallacy get in the way of getting on and up a wall.  

John Shultz · · Osaka, Japan · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 50

It is a BEAUTIFUL thing!

Kevlar chord from Skot is crazy slick and super light. 

John Shultz · · Osaka, Japan · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 50

FWIW, this pulley creates a killer option for a home gym or an improvised workout on the road. You can do all kinds of stuff with it. It is actually much smoother than the pulleys at your [closed] gym!

Cheers... 

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645

Yeesh, Spectra. No thanks!  

I've had the Spectra zed-cord snap on me - explosively and without warning - twice now, and I will not use it any more.  Yes, the perlon stretches a bit, but with the length of cord in use, it matters not.  I also like that the perlon is more flexible. 

NateGfunk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 50
"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok wrote: Yeesh, Spectra. No thanks!  

I've had the Spectra zed-cord snap on me - explosively and without warning - twice now, and I will not use it any more.  Yes, the perlon stretches a bit, but with the length of cord in use, it matters not.  I also like that the perlon is more flexible. 

What spectra were you using? did it snap at the knot?

Skot Richards · · Lakewood · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 100

I don’t have much opinion about the Jag, if you wanna use it, knock yourself out.   There’s a hundred different ways to do things.  I just know what works for me and what I’ll be relying on to haul my kit.

A lil about the Zed cord I use. 
It’s not Kevlar. I mistakenly thought it was.  It’s made from a material called Technora.  It happens to be the same material that NASA used to suspend Mars space rover from its parachute during its decent to the planet.   
Talk about high tech.   

Jon Rhoderick · · OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 966

Omniblock Swiva-Biner

I don’t know how new this product is but it essentially replaces the locker, pulley (same 1.1 sheave), and swivel elements for 140g. 

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,042
Jon Rhoderickwrote:

Omniblock Swiva-Biner

I don’t know how new this product is but it essentially replaces the locker, pulley (same 1.1 sheave), and swivel elements for 140g. 

At a retail of $118 whereas the omniblock without the integrated biner retails at $85, the $33 difference for a (much cheaper) locking biner that can't be used for something else if needed with no real benefit to offset, I'd posit that this would not be a worthwhile adjustment to the system 

Alex Fletcher · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2016 · Points: 252

With that device, how are you meant to attach the zed cord and the extension for the micro traxion? I don’t think it would be as clean. 

Jon Rhoderick · · OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 966
Alex Fletcherwrote:

With that device, how are you meant to attach the zed cord and the extension for the micro traxion? I don’t think it would be as clean. 

Definitely thought the same, there’s another picture on their site that shows the bottom carabiner basket is quite narrow and not conventionally shaped. I think a draw would fit next to the gate/ hinge without too much trouble, and then the Zed would lie on top of that. I’m pretty sure the Zed can also clip into the Microtrax biner without any change to the efficiency. 

Skot Richards · · Lakewood, CA · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0

Here we go again with trying to fine tune perfection... 

The 2:1 haul kit Mark and I have developed is the best you can put together with easily sourced components.  

I have hauled with this kit on pitch after pitch, left side of belay, right side of belay, bolts high off a ledge, bolts low on a weird stance, hell, I’ve hauled off a single ancient pin pulling straight out of it’s placement.  This kit is simply the most versatile, readily available set of components that will work perfectly in the widest variety of situations...     You will never regret having this kit with you...
The Technora zed cord I use and sell is the most durable cordlette available, I have used the same piece of cord on 4 walls....
Can anyone out there claim the same?

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,042
Skot Richardswrote:

Here we go again with trying to fine tune perfection... 

The 2:1 haul kit Mark and I have developed is the best you can put together with easily sourced components.  

I have hauled with this kit on pitch after pitch, left side of belay, right side of belay, bolts high off a ledge, bolts low on a weird stance, hell, I’ve hauled off a single ancient pin pulling straight out of it’s placement.  This kit is simply the most versatile, readily available set of components that will work perfectly in the widest variety of situations...     You will never regret having this kit with you...
The Technora zed cord I use and sell is the most durable cordlette available, I have used the same piece of cord on 4 walls....
Can anyone out there claim the same?

Yup, but I'm using the same system using 5mm maxim ropes tech cord so..... yeah. 

Jon Rhoderick · · OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 966

It seems strange to me to contribute to a thread with  an underlying theme that ‘you  will not make any improvements to the 2:1 haul system’ and then ignore any idea that simplifies or lightens the haul system. 

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,042
Jon Rhoderickwrote:

It seems strange to me to contribute to a thread with  an underlying theme that ‘you  will not make any improvements to the 2:1 haul system’ and then ignore any idea that simplifies or lightens the haul system. 

And where are you seeing this happen?

Andy Wiesner · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 35

This is one of my favorite threads. It’s the one where less experienced wall climbers like myself get their mind blown by the Skot / Mark setup, then rack their brains to try and improve it, maybe waste a little money along the way (I offloaded my Jag at Rock and Snow Annex), learn some stuff, and then cheerfully concede defeat. Carry on!

Skot Richards · · Lakewood, CA · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0
Fail Fallingwrote:

Yup, but I'm using the same system using 5mm maxim ropes tech cord so..... yeah. 

Well,  yea....   your cord lasts 4 walls too,   So what, you replace it once a month!!!?   Haha.    

I used to use the same cord you do.  Until I found the Mars rover parachute cord,  now that’s my go to.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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