Why aren’t there bolted rap anchors off prusik?

Harumpfster Boondogglewrote:

How the hell do you know what I may or may not do? I replace anchors locally (Yosemite, Tahoe etc) for the ASCA and have hand-drilled 1/2" replacement anchors as needed. 

all right then let's see you do it

Ok.

Kyle Tarrywrote:

As someone who's never climbed in the Enchantments or done any significant alpine routes, you might consider toning down the rhetoric...

You do not have to climb at the area in question or even be a climber to have a lot of valuable knowledge on land management or other knowledge that can bring a different perspective on the issues

Daniel Chode Riderwrote:

See the thing is, hillbilly, however much rap anchor porn you have on your hard drive, you aren't going up there with a drill and bolt kit to do it. Nope, just 'oh yeah, we need bolts. SOMEONE better go do it.' So your comments are worse than useless.

Anyway as to impact, neither bolts nor tat, once theyre up there, have really any impact that's noticeable to anyone but a few climbers. So that's a dumb argument comparison. The only impact to be considered is the impact of placing it there, which is obviously much bigger in the case of bolts. Maybe that should be what we think about in terms of protecting wilderness; is it really protecting wilderness if we drag up a bunch of machinery and tools to mess around, or just carry a sling in case it needs replacing?

Obviously, I would rather clip a bolt than a sling, but I have no intention of putting any bolts there, so I won't argue for that.

You sound like a teenager 

A buddy and I were rapping the descent route off a multi-pitch rock route. One of the rap stations was situated in a seasonal waterfall. We'd both done the route before and chatted about the deteriorating nest of nasty at that rap station. I think we added one to the mess that day, ourselves. No comments about "someone should do something." But we did theorize a bolted rap anchor would be an upgrade.

2 weeks later I was talking to my buddy. He casually mentioned,

"Oh yeah I replaced that anchor last weekend." Just a casual mention. I eventually pried it out of him - he rope soloed the (6 pitch route) for the purpose of replacing that dank anchor.

And that was that. It was done. No one took credit for it. No one wrung their hands over it. 

It just got done, by one person who's actions spoke louder than his words. A year later I did the route again and was super psyched to use that nice clean stainless steel anchor he selflessly added. To this day I'm pretty sure I was the only person he told about it.

Mike Preisswrote:

You do not have to climb at the area in question or even be a climber to have a lot of valuable knowledge on land management or other knowledge that can bring a different perspective on the issues

Just yesterday you were raging about how gym climbers don't know anything about this topic.  Now people who aren't even climbers have "valuable knowledge"?  I think what you're really saying is "If they are agreeing with my stance, I don't care if they actually have knowledge on the topic."

The only "different perspective" that Daniel is bringing to this topic is complete ignorance about alpine climbing (and a healthy dose of youthful brashness and hubris).

Cherokee Nuneswrote: The best way to distill these kinds of mountaineering work questions is to replace "they" or "them" with "we" or "us."

Why didn't we place a rap anchor?

Why don't we go back and do so?

Forget about them doing something to make your mountain climbing experience feel a slight bit safer or look a little bit more tidy. Do it yourselves?

If you're like a lot of us, the answer will be - I already did that peak. Not my problem.

Next.

This is how it goes in the mountains - it is a self-serve community. 

Yes, usually the best answer to "why aren't there rapp anchors" is, "because you haven't put them in".

Cherokee Nuneswrote:

A buddy and I were rapping the descent route off a multi-pitch rock route. One of the rap stations was situated in a seasonal waterfall. We'd both done the route before and chatted about the deteriorating nest of nasty at that rap station. I think we added one to the mess that day, ourselves. No comments about "someone should do something." But we did theorize a bolted rap anchor would be an upgrade.

2 weeks later I was talking to my buddy. He casually mentioned,

"Oh yeah I replaced that anchor last weekend." Just a casual mention. I eventually pried it out of him - he rope soloed the (6 pitch route) for the purpose of replacing that dank anchor.

And that was that. It was done. No one took credit for it. No one wrung their hands over it. 

It just got done, by one person who's actions spoke louder than his words. A year later I did the route again and was super psyched to use that nice clean stainless steel anchor he selflessly added. To this day I'm pretty sure I was the only person he told about it.

Really? " chatted about the deteriorating nest of nasty at that rap station." and you were "super psyched to use that nice clean rap anchor"? I don't know anyone that climbs a certain route because of what type of anchor is used but hey okay

Kyle Tarrywrote:

Just yesterday you were raging about how gym climbers don't know anything about this topic.  Now people who aren't even climbers have "valuable knowledge"?  I think what you're really saying is "If they are agreeing with my stance, I don't care if they actually have knowledge on the topic."

The only "different perspective" that Daniel is bringing to this topic is complete ignorance about alpine climbing (and a healthy dose of youthful brashness and hubris).

Don't think I was really raging and yes even gym climbers can and should have input on bolts in the alpine as should just about everyone else as it is public land

B Pwrote:

You sound like a teenager 

Teenager's shred

Mike Preisswrote:

Teenager's shred

But we’re talking about crushing