Picks on Black Diamond Cobras loosening/rotating while climbing
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EDIT: it seems like this is a major current issue with new BD hot forged picks. Many are defective. See mike bauman's post quoted by Andrei on page 2 for more detailed info. Contact BD's warranty service if you have defective picks, and if you have new BD picks make sure to check them. Old post: The other day I noticed while climbing that the picks on my cobras had loosened a bit, and I could rotate them up and down with respect to the tool by hand. Determined to not let that happen again, I made sure to crank down on both bolts on the head real hard and tighten them as much as I could before the next time I went ice climbing. Still, after 2 pitches the next time I climbed on them, I noticed the picks had loosened themselves again! This was really annoying to find out while on the lead. Has anyone else had this problem? Is there anything I can do to keep the picks from loosening on the tool besides cranking down on the bolts even harder? |
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Check for deformation of the slot in the pick, or - much more trouble$ome - the spline in the tool head that goes into said slot. |
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Did they not move at home after you tightened them? Try some blue Loctite? |
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try any other ice tool than BD ;) |
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Never had an issue like that with cobras. Maybe you need to go to the weight room?? |
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I got soured on BD tools when 4 picks broke on my silver vipers in two years and BD customer service told me I didn't know how to ice climb. In 39 years of ice climbing I have broken those 4 BD picks and one humming bird pick.. Heck even Conrad had one break @ the Daks ice fest and had to Bum a spare from the mountaineer.. Maybe Conrad dosen't know how to ice climb either.. |
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Gunkiemikewrote: I just took both tools apart and did not notice any deformation in the pick slots or the splines. jdejacewrote: When I tightened them at home they did not move at all. But a pitch of ice climbing was sufficient to loosen them. I feel like I shouldn't have to resort to loctite because that would make it difficult to replace the picks. Nick Goldsmithwrote: I'm thinking that might be my solution... |
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Never had any problems when I used Cobras or Rages. Love my Vipers. . . |
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Alex Fischerwrote: Well, I don't have BD Cobras but blue Loctite doesn't make it particularly difficult to loosen a bolt with the correct tools. Certainly not more than torquing the s*** out of it. I put it on pretty much every part of my ice tools and crampons. On the little bolts (eg pick weights) I put it on specifically because I was tired of stripping them trying to torque them enough to stay put. Just snug + Loctite doesn't go anywhere and still unscrews easily when I want it to. You can get new tools, there are certainly some sexy ones out there, but they might loosen too. Handle on my new X Dreams developed some wiggle this season on their 2nd day out. They've been fine since with some Loctite. |
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I have both old style and new style Cobras. Use them about 35% of the time. Never had your issue, but Generally prefer Nomics for most ice. I’d try the following in order (many of which has already been suggested....or you may have tried) 1. Was there any chance when you had them apart, you swapped pieces to the other axe? Sometimes they may take a “set” and a particular combo of parts work better together. If not, maybe try swapping.. 2. When you do your tightening, do it when the tools have gotten to temp equilibrium at the cold temps. Don’t do it in your warm house. Ideally torque to 53 N•m (39 lb•ft) 3. When semi-loose, place the pick in its most “upward” position of play, then tighten fully as per 2. 4. Use Loctite per others. 6. If your axes are over three years old, replace per mfrs recommendations as stated in the Manual. Unless you’re (heaven forbid) one of those maniacs who continues to climb on gear past the recommended lifespan date from the manufacturer! Lol. |
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Loctite. My BD tools even had it on the bolts when brand new. |
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The three year rule on ice tools and crampons is pretty reasonable for modern tools if you lead at or near your limit or do any soloing. If you are useing them lightly and or don't climb a bunch of days or anything so difficult for you that you are gaurenteed to not fall and be able to get a screw in if a tool or crampon breaks then you are good for quite a bit longer.. INMOP YMMV PS I use super glue and no problems getting it apart. Nothing against locktite. just don't have any at the moment... |
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Have been using my cobras for 10 plus seasons maybe 17 times per year and have never had any problem. Have changed/replaced picks periodically |
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Ice gear lifespan is an interesting topic. I should clearly read the manuals more carefully. BD Cobra manual says "Under normal use (20 to 50 days per year), the lifespan of a Type 1 B ice axe is 5 years, a Type 2 ice axe is 3 years and a replaceable pick on a Type 2 ice axe is 1 year." Petzl Nomic and Dart manuals say there's a 3 year guarantee against material or manufacturing defect but lifespan is "unlimited." X-Dream and Blade Runner manuals say same thing as Petzl. |
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With the tools getting cold the metal can shrink a thousandth or 2. Put them in the freezer for a hr then tq. I freeze bearing races all the time for car parts. Standard metallurgy as well, cold contracts heat expands. |
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My friend Alden had the head pop right off his Grivel machine while leading WI6 in the Canadian rockies. He solos a lot and replaces his tools every 3 years. he is also a Mammute, Cassine,Camp ambassador so replaceing gear is easy for him. I have broken Grivel, CM, BD and foot fang crampons. All while leading or soloing. I rotate 3 pairs of crampons depending on conditions and objective and replace them when they start looking worn. I no longer replace the front points. If they are dull then the secondary points are also dull and its a good indication that the whole rig has seen enough use that something could break . |
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Alex Fischerwrote: I feel like I shouldn't have to resort to loctite because that would make it difficult to replace the picks. The whole point of Loctite is to fix a thread in place while still being able to remove it easily. |
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Alex Fischerwrote: So it's possible that the pick is machined badly. The groove might be too deep or the back face may be the wrong distance from the hole. I have Cobras and the pick did loosen on me when I used the wrench BD provided. Either use a real wrench or tap the BD one a couple of times with the other tool. |
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Victor Machtelwrote: Fixed that for ya. |
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rocknice2wrote: This. I just noticed the same thing on one of my Fuels. Never did this before, and just started after recently changing picks. I changed back, and it doesn’t do it anymore. So I think there is perhaps a batch of picks out there that’s slightly off. The other pick didnt do this, as I bought a pair of Natural Ice at the same time. |
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I climbed lots of pitches with my first gen cobras. I always tightened the picks so that I could loosen them will a spare. Never had trouble with them getting loose on their own. BD prolly got a cheaper supplier for that batch of picks |




