Anyone been up Split, St. Jeans couloir?

Asking for a friend... well, actually for me.

Just did a car-to-car on the Mountaineer's Route. I was hoping to snag a quick overnight peak this weekend (with camping at Red Lake). Anyone been up there recently? Have any beta? A guy on FB gave posted some nice pics of the foothills on the approach but he didn't make it to where he could see the conditions on the climb.

Any info is appreciated, thanks!

These photos were on the Eastern Sierra Avalanche Center website a little over 3 weeks ago, looking back into that area. St. Jean's is at an oblique angle to the photo, so you can't see conditions in that chute, but many of the other lines are visible, and were looking quite thin. There have been several minor snow events since then though. 

https://www.esavalanche.org/content/red-lake-zone-minimal-snow 

I have lots of other photos of Split/Split Couloir/St Jeans Couloir from that day (3/7) if you want -- those were just a couple. As MPG said and you likely know, we've had some small storms since then, though not much accumulation south of Mammoth. Here's another photo showing st jean couloir:

LMK if you want more hi-res pics.

Yeah, south of Bishop there hasn't been any real snowfall since Leo's picture. I would have to imagine that area is looking even more melted out by now.

Leo Franchiwrote:

I have lots of other photos of Split/Split Couloir/St Jeans Couloir from that day (3/7) if you want -- those were just a couple. As MPG said and you likely know, we've had some small storms since then, though not much accumulation south of Mammoth. Here's another photo showing st jean couloir:

LMK if you want more hi-res pics.

Hi Leo, thanks a lot. This is super useful. I’ve been up the Mountaineers Route three times in the last 6 weeks and the snow has been disappearing crazy fast. I’d image the snow has really receded above Red Lake by this point. But the couloir could still be in condition. I’d  be out of it by sunrise though to be on the safe side.

If it’s not a bother a hi-res version of that picture would be super useful.

Sent you a PM :)

Thanks that was really useful. Nice pictures!

I’m going for it. I think what I’ll do is Camp above Red Lake, maybe on a snow platform, and get an alpine start for summit day. Leave the couloir ideally before sunrise, then walk on down and back out. Should be fun. 

YOLOLZ Bicarbonatewrote:

Thanks that was really useful. Nice pictures!

I’m going for it. I think what I’ll do is Camp above Red Lake, maybe on a snow platform, and get an alpine start for summit day. Leave the couloir ideally before sunrise, then walk on down and back out. Should be fun. 

Report back! I'm interested in the conditions in the couloir as well :) 

Did St Jean's on May 9. It's still in, but you have to catch it before the morning sun turns it into oatmeal, which happens at roughly 0830. 100% snow coverage, no ice, no 'schrund at the entrance. If you are day-sending, I recommend leaving TH at midnight to arrive at the base at 0600. East Couloir is straight out, unless you want to drytool through several rock sections including a 60ft slab at the exit. 

Great post, thanks!

I ended up car-to-car-ing Russell May 8th instead. Great challenge. A lot harder than Whitney MR. It’s one thing to hike up 7000 feet in a day, it’s another to hike up 7000 feet then do ultra exposed Class 2/3/4 for four hours, including crampons and ice axe. I may still try to get Split this year, although it may be two weeks until I can get up there. 

Solid day. Did you want to do the East Ridge catwalk specifically or just to tag the summit? I think going over Whitney-Russel pass and taking South Face up is faster and probably safer. It's like half-a-pitch of class 4 vs endless class 3 with equivalent exposure. 

I was going for the Ridge specifically. Planning on heading up for Fish Hook Arete later this summer. Lots of big items on the agenda as long as forest fires don’t shut everything down.