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Chalk bans

Original Post
Jake G · · Maryland · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 10

Guys I've been getting laughed at for years for saying this but seriously, can we please start using colored chalk. It blows my mind that no one cares about this. I don't know about you but I like using chalk and I'd hate for this to become the new norm. Let's address this before it's a problem else where. 

https://www.outtherecolorado.com/news/colorado-park-bans-rock-climbing-chalk-and-chalk-substitutes-as-popularity-of-sport-grows/article_a96e6784-8683-11eb-91ed-1f25779e3d53.amp.html

Spider Savage · · Los Angeles, ID · Joined May 2007 · Points: 540

Things to do to live a better life:

1. Quit smoking weed.  ,/

2. Quit drinking.  ,/

3. Quit eating sugar. ,/

4. Stop using chalk.  

Bryce Dahlgren · · Boston, Ma · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 216

As some one who wants to climb in the Utah deserts does anyone know where to get reddish brown colored chalk?

Vaughn · · Colorado · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 55
Bryce Dahlgren wrote:

As some one who wants to climb in the Utah deserts does anyone know where to get reddish brown colored chalk?

Climbing Addicts makes different colors of chalk for this reason. It's a bit more expensive and I haven't tried it myself but I do think its a good idea in principle.

Jake G · · Maryland · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 10
Bryce Dahlgren wrote:

As some one who wants to climb in the Utah deserts does anyone know where to get reddish brown colored chalk?

It's hard to find. I use gray being east coast, but I know climbing addicts sells a gold one that's supposed to be good for desert sandstone. But it's all so pricey and too fine for my liking. I wish metolius or black diamond would get into the market. It would be a game changer

Cutler Jensen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0

Idk, Is it really that big of a deal? I mean when it rains most of it will wash off anyway. I just think there are much more impactful things we do in climbing chalk is less of a concern. Like bolts or trails etc.

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

The problem with colored chalk is that the pigment creates permanent stains. White chalk, though visible, can be washed off with water. 

Bryce Dahlgren · · Boston, Ma · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 216
Frank Stein wrote:

The problem with colored chalk is that the pigment creates permanent stains. White chalk, though visible, can be washed off with water. 

Is that so? That definitely changes my stand on them but some more explanation or examples would be appreciated

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Chalk is clearly aid and it leaves traces. A reckoning is due for popular areas on public land. It sort of boggles my mind it hasn't been prohibited yet. 

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669
Jake G wrote:

Guys I've been getting laughed at for years for saying this but seriously, can we please start using colored chalk. It blows my mind that no one cares about this. I don't know about you but I like using chalk and I'd hate for this to become the new norm. Let's address this before it's a problem else where. 

https://www.outtherecolorado.com/news/colorado-park-bans-rock-climbing-chalk-and-chalk-substitutes-as-popularity-of-sport-grows/article_a96e6784-8683-11eb-91ed-1f25779e3d53.amp.html

"Chalk use was previously not permitted in the park, though chalk substitutes were allowed."

curvenut · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0
Bryce Dahlgren wrote:

As some one who wants to climb in the Utah deserts does anyone know where to get reddish brown colored chalk?

I am wondering  how efficient  is the dust you can pick  on the trails  to the cliff  ? 

They are the same color ..! 

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260

Climbers aren't pro-active. That's why it's never been a thing. I'd refer to the previous thread. Anything that the climbing community does is obviously either great or perfectly acceptable for everyone. A by-product of climber's habit, such as huge white marks all over the cliffs, cannot be a nuisance by definition.

Anyways, as Cutler Jensen pointed out and anyone who's been to say Red River Gorge will know, chalk nevers stays on any wall more than a day or two, because of the rain:

I'm guessing that image was taken during peak season at the Red, all that stuff would be gone by like the next day.

Jake G · · Maryland · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 10
Cutler Jensen wrote:

Idk, Is it really that big of a deal? I mean when it rains most of it will wash off anyway. I just think there are much more impactful things we do in climbing chalk is less of a concern. Like bolts or trails etc.

This is what I always hear. But it really is a concern just look at the city of golden in the link I sited. Keep in mind it's not the average tourist we should be worried about. It's the other 1 percent of non climbing outdoor enthusiasts that have made the great outdoors they're life. They are the ones with the loudest voices who run organizations like the AMC and Sierra club and so forth. And I feel for them. Some places, every boulder in site of a trail is covered. I know colored chalk isn't invisible but at least it's less in your face and less likely to result in an all out ban.

Jon Ruland · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2007 · Points: 1,026

Maybe some of you more chalk addicted folks could try just dabbing a bit on your tips and blow the excess off instead of dipping your hands in up to your wrists.

Nick Orticelle · · Denver, Co · Joined May 2009 · Points: 50

I've always found chalk stains to be an absolutely unnecessary eyesore. If you ever thought a climb was beautiful, it's pretty easy to help maintain it's beauty by chilling out on chalk.

I reduced my use by climbing without chalk for a while. It's amazing how little I found I actually need after that short endeavor. Excess chalk reduces grip...dry hands are the goal. The clothes we wear are also pretty darn good for drying hands.....

Steve Climber · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 659
Franck Vee wrote:
Anyways, as Cutler Jensen pointed out and anyone who's been to say Red River Gorge will know, chalk nevers stays on any wall more than a day or two, because of the rain:

I'm guessing that image was taken during peak season at the Red, all that stuff would be gone by like the next day.

I've only been to the red a handful of times so maybe a local could chime in here, but I think it's actually the opposite for chalk marks on overhung routes there, ie lots of it is steep enough that rain never/rarely washes the chalk off. It seemed like every semi-travelled route there had everything that could conceivably be a hold covered in chalk. That's the way it also is with some spots in Tennessee. I've often fantasized about hauling a power washer out to the wall...

Also it seems a little pompous to issues blanket statements about "I don't need to use any chalk so no one else should need it either!!" There's definitely a huge spectrum of how much people's hands sweat, the type of rock and type of climbing you're doing etc. Anyone that says they don't need chalk should come climb in the south in July lol 

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Chalk should be illegal for anything under 5.11a

I’d even allow 10a.  Maybe.   But chalk on 5.9 and under is by people who see real climbers and wanna pretend to be one.  Change my mind.
(feeling ornery today)

Tim Bratten · · Balcarce, AR · Joined May 2017 · Points: 4,421

I have no problem with chalk on a wall and I think whining about it is infelicitous

Daniel Chode Rider · · Truck, Wenatchee · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 7,484

Honestly this seems like a Colorado problem to me. CO is the new California, change my mind

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 50

I'm way ahead of you: I stopped using chalk altogether 10 years ago! 

Caleb Wood · · Farmington, UT · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 205
Cutler Jensen wrote:

Idk, Is it really that big of a deal? I mean when it rains most of it will wash off anyway. I just think there are much more impactful things we do in climbing chalk is less of a concern. Like bolts or trails etc.

Yeah unfortunately in the desert, it doesn't really rain and sandstone really loves to hold onto chalk. Check out Chuckawalla wall in Utah, Big Bend Boulders in Moab, or even little cottonwood canyon granite in Utah. People climb on the rocks out here so much that the chalk becomes part of the rock

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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