New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #15

And the hike out there also gives you a chance to look at Figures On A Landscape. What a gorgeous climb that is. 

GO

Lori Milas wrote:

Kinda bummed about this: I think the CS Special route goes permanently off my list.

Funny I was going to ask today whether Houser routes were only slab. Was there ever upper body muscular moves? So the CS Special route and the adjacent route put up by Bob are beautiful friction slab... until you walk up to it and ask yourself how one gets on to the wall.  I stared at this thing from every angle until I realized they actually intend a Boulder move. Do we have no Plan B?

The roof is 7 feet from the ground. I am 5’8”.  The first handhold is a sloper. The first decent foot/hand is another foot higher.  It would take some real power just to get onto the face and then some to get settled onto the route.  I concluded its impossible.  

Hi Lori, here's the beta:

Stem between the two blocks under the roof, left hand undercling under the lip of the roof, then right hand up to a big fat edge and crank up. 10a/b for the roof and 10a/b for the slab too.

Bob Gaines wrote:

Hi Lori, here's the beta:

Stem between the two blocks under the roof, left hand undercling under the lip of the roof, then right hand up to a big fat edge and crank up. 10a/b for the roof and 10a/b for the slab too.

It sounds a little mantle-y. Can I do it?   

And can a top rope be set up? 

Yes and Yes!

Bit of trad leading today for me, a really easy grad 11 to start with. First peice (a nut) popped when I was about 5 metres up. And that was my only peice at the time. Got something in quickish even it was easy climbing. 

Also led a nice 15, few biggish move over a mini roof. Nice to do bit of trad..

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/morialta/route/13538539

GabeO wrote:

Most books call it two, and iirc there is a bolted anchor in the middle. That said, it is better done as one pitch. 

I think that may be one of only two leads I've ever backed off due to being just too chicken. It was twenty years ago. I was a new leader.  I was starting up the second pitch, with my belayer hanging out on the bolts. I discovered that the 5.7 crux of the route is fifteen feet above the belay, just before you get to the first bolt. I did not like the idea of a thirty foot tumbling factor two fall on my belayer. 

I later realized that just because there was a belay in the middle didn't mean I had to use it, and went back and sent it as a single pitch. Very nice route if I recall. Each pitch quite different from the other. 

GO

It's good to do two pitches when 1.) yer partner hasn't done a lot of two pitch climbs so it's fun and 2.) Communication is a lot easier. Win-win.

I'm still mulling over Jan's response to my question about Dave--which was so appreciated.  In my desire for stories and to understand history, there's a big missing piece.  What is it? Some climbers left here and won't come back. EVER.   Some seemed to shake the dust off their feet and go elsewhere.  Several friends here will climb anywhere BUT Joshua Tree.  

I'm not trying to pry.  It may not be my place to ask.  But as I wander around with newborn eyes, and continue to discover this place for myself... I have to wonder what happened.  Did competition and hostility ruin it all?  Was it a territorial thing?  Or maybe as newfangled gym climbers (like me) came barging in it was no longer sacred ground?

I could be talked out of this idea easily... but I understand the ranger station has been taking oral interviews of climbers.  I don't know what they plan to do with all of that precious information.  I'd like to see it turned into a book about the history of Joshua tree climbing.  If I can help in any way, it would be an honor.  

I'll be climbing with Jeremy (Schoenborn) next week... and in my fantasy, such a book would come right up to present to include guys/gals like him.  These new climbers listen to new music, have their own language (routes are no longer 'sick'... they're 'ill'    ) and they have strength and vision moving forward. It's only getting better. (Jeremy at Shuteye) 

Kristian Solem wrote:

It's good to do two pitches when 1.) yer partner hasn't done a lot of two pitch climbs so it's fun and 2.) Communication is a lot easier. Win-win.

Generally speaking, sure.  Also if the crux is low on pitch one. However for me (and I suspect many others) the crux on pitch two overrode all these potential factors. Are you suggesting otherwise?

GO

Lori Milas wrote:

I could be talked out of this idea easily... but I understand the ranger station has been taking oral interviews of climbers.  I don't know what they plan to do with all of that precious information.  I'd like to see it turned into a book about the history of Joshua tree climbing.  If I can help in any way, it would be an honor.  

That’s strange, my guess is they are trying to better understand how visitors use the park so that they can manage impact. Last year there was a grad student handing out surveys asking for opinions about potential new regulations, park entry reservations, no-pad zones, it even suggested reserved times for routes if I recall.

Have you read any of John Long’s essays? Rock Jocks, Wall Rats, and Hang Dogs is an amusing read with a few essays about JT climbing history, I think you would enjoy it. There is also a Stonemasters coffee table book from Stonemasters Press that is unfortunately out of print and super expensive. I also recommend Lynn Hill’s memoir, Climbing Free. There is some JT history peppered throughout there too.

I would definitely enjoy a more thorough history of JT climbing (John Long is an excellent writer but his essays are more like dramatized campfire stories than an honest history). Both climbing and JT tourism are booming, so perhaps there is a market for your proposed history book, but I have to wonder if people might bristle at the idea of a history of (mostly) privileged (mostly) white (mostly) men goofing around the desert. There is a trend among the current Instagram generation of climbers to tag/mention the tribe who used to live where they are climbing. Referring to the park as “sacred ground” for us climbers might be a little triggering to some.

Sam Cieply wrote:

That’s strange, my guess is they are trying to better understand how visitors use the park so that they can manage impact. Last year there was a grad student handing out surveys asking for opinions bout potential new regulations, park entry reservations, no-pad zones, it even suggested reserved times for routes if I recall.

Have you read any of John Long’s essays? Rock Jocks, Wall Rats, and Hang Dogs is an amusing read with a few essays about JT climbing history, I think you would it. There is also a Stonemasters coffee table book from Stonemasters Press that is unfortunately out of print and super expensive.

I would definitely enjoy a more thorough history of JT climbing (John Long is an excellent writer but his essays are more like dramatized campfire stories than an honest history). Both climbing and JT tourism are booming, so perhaps there is a market for your proposed history book, but I have to wonder if people might bristle at the idea of a history of (mostly) privileged (mostly) white (mostly) men goofing around the desert. There is a trend among the current Instagram generation of climbers to tag/mention the tribe who used to live where they are climbing. Referring to the park as “sacred ground” for us climbers might be a little triggering to some.

They might bristle Sam... but “it is what it is.”  The truthful history of this place is of mostly (all?) white dudes goofing around in the desert.  As for privileged, I don’t know about that.  As far as I can tell some of these young climbers broke with their families and future college etc to pursue a dream,  don’t know how many had means, or even a car.  

I know today “I” have privilege relative to my friends and family and this dirtbagish dream can only happen when lots of help comes with it. I don’t forget that for one second.  This is no longer a cut-school and camp here sport.  

I don’t mean to go off on a rant but I don’t think I have an ax to grind.  When I have mentioned that I don’t see a lot of female climbers in this place it has been taken in a pc way.  I’m just looking at numbers with curiosity.

Anyway a bunch of white guys came here and did some spectacular climbing. Some others were surfing or skiing with the same intensity.  Without judgment I just want the history.  

GabeO wrote:

Generally speaking, sure.  Also if the crux is low on pitch one. However for me (and I suspect many others) the crux on pitch two overrode all these potential factors. Are you suggesting otherwise?

GO

If the leader is sketch on 5.7 slab, then you are 100% correct. That is definitely one of those "the leader must not fall" situations. But with all of the tumbling and skidding involved, it won't really measure up as a factor two. And even with your belayer back on the ground, further reducing your impact on the rope, the skidding-tumbling business will still suck. Best just not fall there   .

Lori Milas wrote:

Anyway a bunch of white guys came here and did some spectacular climbing. Some others were surfing or skiing with the same intensity.  Without judgment I just want the history.  

The relative scarcity of black climbers is an interesting and complicated issue. I spent some time with an “Afro-American,” as she liked to be called, climber. Among many things, she went on to become the first black woman to climb El Cap, finishing Lurking Fear in a shave over their 24 hour goal.

One of her thoughts is that it hasn’t really been very long since the days when good things didn’t happen to black people in the woods. The life span of one person reaching 80 puts you back to the time when, in southern states, woe be it for a black man who was seen to look at a white woman improperly. The KKK was mainstream and killing blacks was a sport. And it usually happened in the woods. A stretch? She convinced me otherwise.

Her regular job was to take groups of inner-city kids out in the wilderness. She told me that skittish feeling was there among some of the kids. They didn’t feel like they were in a good place, even though they were.

Is it a cultural thing? Look at music. How many Black groups are doing songs about the Grand Canyon? As this collective memory fades into the past things will change.

Lori Milas wrote:

 a bunch of white guys came here and did some stuff....

Kinda most of standard issue American History 101????

;-)

led the rig in red.. Crazy Diamond. 

hard, cold dry ice.   Tim got a rare shot of me (I usually have the camera) coming out of the cave. 

the final pillar was  rather delicate and hollow for a bit at the start of the steep part.  One of my feet popped while I was matching or swinging?  didn't think anything of it at the time but by the end of the day my shoulder was getting tender.  Its pretty obviously tweaked today....   back to rehab.... :(

Lori Milas wrote:

I could be talked out of this idea easily... but I understand the ranger station has been taking oral interviews of climbers.  I don't know what they plan to do with all of that precious information.  I'd like to see it turned into a book about the history of Joshua tree climbing.  If I can help in any way, it would be an honor.  

Actually, the Interviews are being conducted by/through the University of California Riverside and the NPS.  They are seeking historical narratives to document the development and history of climbing in the Park.

These are not part of determining how visitors use the Park - though no doubt the Park is undertaking efforts in that regard as well.

CS Special is tricky to get started. If you are 5'8" you should have an easier time (than shorter people) stemming up and moving your hands up to make the move getting established above the overhang. Definitely going to be the crux.

Bit of indoor bouldering today... 

https://youtu.be/R54PakBVMNA

Lori

Jean got her 1st shot this past Friday and I got mine Saturday. Jean will also get another x-ray in 3 weeks on her wrist and then hopefully find out if she can start PT or wait another month or so. 

I have two songs.

This one is an old Peter Green song Oh Well, I like it because the 1st verse is me.

"I can't help about the shape I'm in. I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin. "

It is done by one by my favorite guitarists Kenny Wayne Shepherd besides Joe Bonamassa.

A mellow song is Soulshine by Warren Haynes

John
 

The great Dinah Washington!

"Is you is or is you ain't my baby"

Carl, looking great, as usual!

Nick, sorry about the tweak.

John and Jean....well. Hope for the best, and snow to understand it's spring.

Lori? 1. Bob Gaines says you can do it. 2. The start is a boulder problem. Stack some pads! ;-D

I'm now preregistered on the new statewide list for getting vaccinated. I can expect an appointment in days.

Weeks.

Months.....

John, Oh, I'm so happy Jean is hanging in there.  Not like you have any choice, because apparently she will do whatever she wants to do!      And so glad you guys got your first shot.  Tony and I just got our second shot on Saturday.  I will just leave this subject alone.  

Thank you for the songs!  I have listened to all the songs offered here.  Love the Oh, Well song... and somehow never heard of  Kenny Wayne Shepherd.  (heard the original, just never this one.)

Probably what I was really asking was what music are you all listening to out on the crags? I have some songs that, no matter what shape I'm in, will get me up and moving.  I have also created some odd playlists that I sort of hang on to for months at a time, and they take on a meaning.   Weird thing though, when I'm actually at the base of a route and ready to climb, I always vote for silence.  I'd love to blast Hendrix, or some other great noise... maybe it's that climbing takes so much focus.  I haven't been able to bring music TO a climb.  Maybe it will come.  

------------------

I went back and examined C.S. Special... just to see what I had missed.  Sure enough, there's a big hold (and lots of chalk) under the roof.  And I could see the possibility of stemming up the boulders a ways.  It's the 'crank on up' part that eludes me.  

I wanted to say yesterday, in response to several posts, that I have never seen myself as a victim... not of women's issues, or any other.  It is just a matter of fact, though, that on a route like this the guys are going to be more naturally suited, as a whole.  And that's just the way it is.  All I can do is try on this one, and cut myself some generous slack if I cannot do it.  This may be one I'll video and post, just for the laugh value.  But it's that beautiful face I'm really interested in.    

Quail are eating my newly sprouted wildflowers as we speak.  Having visited Joshua Tree many times before we moved here, I still didn't have the full impact of living here.  I had no idea that the wind was this strong much of the time.  Anything that can fly in the air needs to be nailed down, and that includes cushions, chairs, pillows, towels, and plants.  Crazy place !  On the other hand, things are growing...