Double Digit Slab Highball just put up in West Virginia. INSANE

I'm impressed.  Rehearsal or not, it's a committing piece of climbing.  

WF WF51wrote:

Jim, read the post again.

INSANE!

It is 2021 - all capital letters, ipso facto, it is newsworthy. Everyone knows. 

Big facts. Glad you recognise how INSANE! this is. 

Max Rwrote:

This whole thread is one weird flex. 

Yes the weirdest of flexes. Very odd. 

Brendan Nwrote:

Nice! Who was that? 5.14 slab 20 years ago is a pretty big deal. 

A local ghost named Peter. No idea what his last name is, the only way to get in contact with him is via smoke signals from what I've heard.

Lone Pinewrote:

Looks like standard Yosemite V3 slab

Except it is sloping gritstone and barely 1 degree off vertical. The better friction would make it V2+ in Camp 4.

Idk, but I kinda like climbing content on my climbing websites. Thank you for posting and nice send! 

D E Griffithwrote:

If you want to come hop on it, let me know! I'd be stoked to have another repeat. I'll even carry the pads for you! 

The anchors were put there (way back) in the 2000s. The guy that put them there eventually toproped it after a long time of trying it. No one wanted to bolt the face since it is so beautiful, plus it would be a 2 bolt sport route with the crux at the bottom. So I took it upon myself to serve some sweet sweet slab justice and bouldered the thing. The main reason I wanted to leave the shunts there is so other pursuers of slab justice can rehearse it (similar to Too Tall to Flail). 

You can be as unimpressed as you want, as long as you as you are sliiiightly more inclined to climb a slab the next time you get outside. Maybe even clean one, FA it, and share it to MP so I can come climb it! I don't care if it is a V10 highball or a 8 ft V0-. I'll climb your downclimb if it is slab!

Dylan,  I am not trying to knock what you did. Further, I did not say I was not impressed, I said I was not sure how impressed one should be. That is because there are many missing details. At this point we now have some history:

In 2000, Pete put in some anchors and successfully TR'd the route.

In 2021, after many rehearsals on TR you climbed the route solo calling it a V10 boulder problem.

You note the crux is at the bottom, within what the first 10 feet? How hard is it after that? Does the difficulty back off considerably. Give us some more details.

Regardless, if you had fun, and seems you did then that is all that really matters. Props on that. Especially as I climbed around Coopers Rock back in the mid 70s.

And if ya want some slabs, come west young man, come west. I'll be happy to get you on some of our local granite slab test pieces that I have done, many of which are in the 5.10R-5.11R range. Pretty sure you would be stoked on them.

West Virginia Climbing is very cool.  

I miss it.

minus the ticks.  Fuck those little bastards. 

I put up a triple digit highball in east Virginia but u don't see me posting that shit on the forums

Rahat Awrote:

Big facts. Glad you recognise how INSANE! this is. 

SLAB JUSTICE SERVED!

Whats instagram?

Gumby Kingwrote:

Whats instagram?

A safe place for white people, to let other white people, know they’re not racist. 

Allen Sanderson wrote:

Dylan,  I am not trying to knock what you did. Further, I did not say I was not impressed, I said I was not sure how impressed one should be. That is because there are many missing details. At this point we now have some history:

In 2000, Pete put in some anchors and successfully TR'd the route.

In 2021, after many rehearsals on TR you climbed the route solo calling it a V10 boulder problem.

You note the crux is at the bottom, within what the first 10 feet? How hard is it after that? Does the difficulty back off considerably. Give us some more details.

Regardless, if you had fun, and seems you did then that is all that really matters. Props on that. Especially as I climbed around Coopers Rock back in the mid 70s.

And if ya want some slabs, come west young man, come west. I'll be happy to get you on some of our local granite slab test pieces that I have done, many of which are in the 5.10R-5.11R range. Pretty sure you would be stoked on them.

I get the feeling you haven't done much high balling.

Dan Cookseywrote:

A safe place for white people, to let other white people, know they’re not racist. 

Rent free

MojoMonkeywrote:

SLAB JUSTICE SERVED!

You already know!

Jordan Wilsonwrote:

I get the feeling you haven't done much high balling.

BITD I soled plenty of steep stuff on rock and ice. 

Allen Sanderson wrote:

BITD I soled plenty of steep stuff on rock and ice. 

Allen your gatekeeping and flexing is moving to the next LEVEL! KEEP IT UP!

Allen Sandersonwrote:

BITD I soled plenty of steep stuff on rock and ice. 

I call BS if you don’t have footage in Instagram

Lone Pinewrote:

I call BS if you don’t have footage in Instagram

Facts. Pics or it didnt happen as the kids say

Allen Sandersonwrote:

Dylan,  I am not trying to knock what you did. Further, I did not say I was not impressed, I said I was not sure how impressed one should be. That is because there are many missing details. At this point we now have some history:

In 2000, Pete put in some anchors and successfully TR'd the route.

In 2021, after many rehearsals on TR you climbed the route solo calling it a V10 boulder problem.

You note the crux is at the bottom, within what the first 10 feet? How hard is it after that? Does the difficulty back off considerably. Give us some more details.

Regardless, if you had fun, and seems you did then that is all that really matters. Props on that. Especially as I climbed around Coopers Rock back in the mid 70s.

And if ya want some slabs, come west young man, come west. I'll be happy to get you on some of our local granite slab test pieces that I have done, many of which are in the 5.10R-5.11R range. Pretty sure you would be stoked on them.

I still have 8 hard slab projects around me of similar difficulty and height that I have to do (and about 30-40 slabby trad and sport routes). All a 20 minute drive from my house in Morgantown. And then all the hard East Coast slabs, and then I'll head west. I have heard Old Rag in VA has a ton of potential for granite La Pedriza style slab sport routes too!

If I am ever out your direction, I'll happily hop on whatever slabs you point me at!