New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #15

Russ Walling wrote:

There are/were some pretty great ones...  

Better commit the list to memory though.  I smell a REDACTION coming on and I'll probably get banned again for such a submission.  See ya in Sarajevo!

Hey!  I just climbed a route called REDACTED!   

After thorough review of the various lists I have concluded that you boys cannot be relied upon to come up with proper nicknames for such delicate flowers as Helen and me.  But there's always hope that your literary prowess will emerge and you'll come up with one that will stick.  

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As to the age thing (just discussed by Helen)... I think we are going to agree to disagree.  From the git-go Helen got right to it and identified herself as 'old' out of the gate--sort of a 'why deny it' thought process.  

Much as I still try to get my arms around being 'old', there is no part of me that feels old.  In fact, I feel younger every day.  Not sure how to reconcile an alarming number of years with an inner age that doesn't match at all.  I got pissed with the ranger at the Park entrance when she GAVE me a free lifetime pass with "senior" on the face... I didn't ask for it.  

There's a lot of assumptions associated with aging... is it being female, I wonder, that makes it harder? I won't accept those assumptions without a fight.   

One of the themes running through these threads is our experience of age.  Maybe it's harder for the guys who saw their glory days decades ago and are aware of how much strength and ability has been lost.  My glory days are NOW.  This is all experimental for me... I have no idea what more my body can do, or for how long, so I'm just pushing my own limits to see what I can do.  I half expect to wake up one morning wrinkled and gray... or newly decrepit in some way. But so far, none of that has happened.  

I hope being 'old' doesn't limit what any of us can do, sexually, emotionally, physically... in the climbing world, in life.  I don't want any pre-programmed stereotypes.  Want to find out for myself.  

Dylan... "I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now... "   

Lori, I adopted the moniker of Old lady H when I joined MP, in 2015. Just a punk kid in my 50s, lol!

It is not "why deny it". It is "you got a problem with that?" 

I'm female. I'm 64. I'm short. Simple fact. You wanna make idiotic assumptions based on that, do so at your peril!

Best, H.

I have six sisters, 4 are older than me (66) & 2 way younger than me. The oldest is 78 the youngest is 40. They are all BADASS, each different, all BADASS, even the younger two that Guy had to hear me complain about when they were young. Each one amazes me in every way as they have grown into their power. The older they get the better they get! 

So, speaking of aging and body image: I bumped into some Instagram posts by Beth Rodden .  Her new campaign is on self-acceptance, after having some kids and attendant weight gain and stretch marks.  Super brave of her to acknowledge she pees when she runs and climbs.  I like where she’s going with this.  

Still it’s hard not to fall into the self-loathing trap. We were watching the Brittany Spears documentary last night and I said “I wish I had her belly.  Those are 19 year old abs.”  Tony said “He’ll no. I like your belly.”  And I think he means it.   

Lori Milaswrote:

Hey!  I just climbed a route called REDACTED!   

After thorough review of the various lists I have concluded that you boys cannot be relied upon to come up with proper nicknames for such delicate flowers as Helen and me.  But there's always hope that your literary prowess will emerge and you'll come up with one that will stick.  

---------------

As to the age thing (just discussed by Helen)... I think we are going to agree to disagree.  From the git-go Helen got right to it and identified herself as 'old' out of the gate--sort of a 'why deny it' thought process.  

Much as I still try to get my arms around being 'old', there is no part of me that feels old.  In fact, I feel younger every day.  Not sure how to reconcile an alarming number of years with an inner age that doesn't match at all.  I got pissed with the ranger at the Park entrance when she GAVE me a free lifetime pass with "senior" on the face... I didn't ask for it.  

There's a lot of assumptions associated with aging... is it being female, I wonder, that makes it harder? I won't accept those assumptions without a fight.   

One of the themes running through these threads is our experience of age.  Maybe it's harder for the guys who saw their glory days decades ago and are aware of how much strength and ability has been lost.  My glory days are NOW.  This is all experimental for me... I have no idea what more my body can do, or for how long, so I'm just pushing my own limits to see what I can do.  I half expect to wake up one morning wrinkled and gray... or newly decrepit in some way. But so far, none of that has happened.  

I hope being 'old' doesn't limit what any of us can do, sexually, emotionally, physically... in the climbing world, in life.  I don't want any pre-programmed stereotypes.  Want to find out for myself.  

Dylan... "I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now... "   

      

A couple of years ago a young lady stood up and offered me her seat on the bus! I almost slapped her! Other than aches and pains I feel young inside, in my spirit. Although I get pissed off with the world and shout at the TV like a proper old person... 

Carl Schneiderwrote:

...Although I get pissed off with the world and shout at the TV like a proper old person... 

Welcome to my world   

Lori, what specifically would you like to know about Dave Hauser?

He was tallish for a climber, brown hair, kind of quiet, kind, an engineer, husband, father, a failed mormon, and a great climber with excellent footwork.

just got back from night soloing..  just a road cut . about 40ft of pretty steep ice and annother 10ft of steep turf on top.  4 laps is enough to feel it was productive but then got to race home and get ready for work tomorrow.....   Its tall enough that your can't see the top or bottom  with the headlamp so it's pretty cool...  like being in a capsul....  

Jan Mcwrote:

Lori, what specifically would you like to know about Dave Hauser?

He was tallish for a climber, brown hair, kind of quiet, kind, an engineer, husband, father, a failed mormon, and a great climber with excellent footwork.

Jan, what a surprise.  Thanks so much!  

I’m still a pretty new climber and until recently didn’t pay much attention to routes and FA’s. But when I climbed  Loose Lady a year ago it kind of knocked my socks off.  It totally got my attention, And then I noticed some more routes with that same familiar vibe and realized Dave Houser’s name was attached to most of them (and yours!). I looked up one day at Echo Cove and saw a tiny human inching up a magnificent  boulder and I couldn’t believe what I was seeing (EBGBs).  I had walked past it so many times never imagined there were routes on it.  So, I became a fan. 

I started asking around about Dave and no one could recall anything... no idea where he was or what happened to him.  The more I asked the curiouser I got.  Is he still alive?  Was he just here and gone?

This season I decided I wanted to climb all the routes with Dave’s name attached... partly as a lark.  But they’re all beautiful and the right amount of challenge for me.  Some are way past my ability but you never know.  On my radar right now is Run For Your Life.  Of course while researching those routes I find that there are harder and grander routes put up everywhere by very familiar names. 

Now I’m on a full roll learning  about Park history... the big names and the gang of climbers who came before. I just watched the video of your climb on Bachar-Yerian and realized “So that’s Jan. Wow!”  

Would love to see pictures if there are any... stories and tales of you all and if anyone ever captured one of Dave I’d love to see that, too.  There is so much history to this place! 

Lori Milaswrote:

Super brave of her to acknowledge she pees when she runs and climbs.  

Is there some other time I'm supposed to pee?

Self-acceptance is the sexiest thing of all. 

Andrew & Jan, B&Y

Andrew Ricewrote:

Is there some other time I'm supposed to pee?

Self-acceptance is the sexiest thing of all. 

I love the way you put that, Senor.  There is some fine line... and I don't know exactly where it is... between embracing changes of aging, and expecting infirmity.  

A cool thing about Beth's Instagram campaign is that she's still so young, and she's going about posting pics of herself in less than flattering ways--because that's reality, a real body of a real athlete. The hundreds of responses tell that it's an issue for more than just Beth. 

She's also talking about climbs she refused to attempt previously because she just thought she was not good enough, especially if she didn't look good enough.  

One of the things I so appreciate about this group, and about the people I have climbed with (even including Jeremy), is the total lack of judgment regarding age and ability.  Bob especially walks that fine line with me... doesn't exclude projects because of expectations about what I can do, but also is pretty generous in areas where I just lack.  There are times it's just "probably not a good idea, Lori"... but more and more "Yea, we can do that." 

But the peeing thing.... it's an issue.    

From my first year of climbing, July 2015.

This wonderful kid was leaving the next day for China, to finish his schooling. The hazard of being at a University climbing gym. Your friends grow up and move on.

Anyway, the hug turned into me scooping him up, for a pic. It's out of focus because we are all laughing so hard.

I discovered that bladders are not designed for downward pressure. I quickly put him down. Picked him back up. I really wanted this photo! "Hurry, hurry, before I pee my pants!"

No puddle on the floor. But I went home with soaked pants that night.

Sneezing. Sneezing is hazardous sometimes, lol! 

But otherwise? Well, this is the plus side of giving birth by c section. :-)

H.

I got to the gym the other day.  For maybe the third time in a year.  My performance was the cause of much amusement.  It turns out that if you don't climb at all, you turn into a crappy climber.  I'd never tried that (not climbing), so I guess I didn't know.  Hardest thing I tried was almost a solid number grade easier than a route I onsighted last time I was there.  And I could not even get to the top.  

Funny thing is I kept thinking of RGold, and his quote:  "If climbing makes your ego bigger, not smaller, then you're doing it wrong.  Doesn't matter what grade you climb."    ---Hazel Findlay 

I guess I must've REALLY been doing it right!  LOL

GO 

GabeOwrote:

I got to the gym the other day.  For maybe the third time in a year.  My performance was the cause of much amusement.  It turns out that if you don't climb at all, you turn into a crappy climber.  I'd never tried that (not climbing), so I guess I didn't know.  Hardest thing I tried was almost a solid number grade easier than a route I onsighted last time I was there.  And I could not even get to the top.  

Funny thing is I kept thinking of RGold, and his quote:  "If climbing makes your ego bigger, not smaller, then you're doing it wrong.  Doesn't matter what grade you climb."    ---Hazel Findlay 

I guess I must've REALLY been doing it right!  LOL

GO 

Good for you, Gabe!  Good for you for showing up and doing your best. This fitness thing is something we are all dealing with since COVID.  Keep at it, you’ll get your mojo back soon.

Whelp, I made it to the top of Ryan’s Mountain this morning, in 37 degree weather with 48 mph winds.  Every bit of this is a shock to me—I feel like the most out of shape woman on the planet yet  here I am, hiking this trail without huffing and puffing the whole way.  Pretty much like everyone has promised: some level of endurance is possible over time.  

So I was thinking on the way down... who’d be down for an afternoon get together at Hidden Valley campground? Or an evening? Or a day of climbing? One day soon I’m going to make that attempt on RFYL, and whether I make it or not I’d love to celebrate the effort.  It would sure be cool to meet up with friends and hear the stories—and maybe I’ll have one to tell.  Just a thought. Bring the wives. Tell me again about the climber who peeled off Old Woman and picked a climber off Judas.   

That's great that you have seen the to of Ryan Mountain, Lori. Not a small accomplishment at all. Plus a beautiful hike. By now, surely, you've figured out that some of the best multi-pitches in J-tree are right in sight of the trail on Saddle Rock. If you can hike Ryan Mountain you could certainly follow Right On and rappel off. 

Andrew Ricewrote:

That's great that you have seen the to of Ryan Mountain, Lori. Not a small accomplishment at all. Plus a beautiful hike. By now, surely, you've figured out that some of the best multi-pitches in J-tree are right in sight of the trail on Saddle Rock. If you can hike Ryan Mountain you could certainly follow Right On and rappel off. 

Yes and you climbed Mt Whitney. (Twice?) I’m not keeping up with the big boys yet.   

Lori Milaswrote:

Yes and you climbed Mt Whitney. (Twice?) I’m not keeping up with the big boys yet.   

Apples and oranges, though, with anything in J-tree. I've climbed a bunch of 14,000+ peaks. The crux of those is always endurance and, frankly, ability to suffer a bit. Nothing you need to do.

But if you can muster the stamina to climb Ryan Mountain up and back without collapsing in a diabetic coma you are in FAR better shape than you were last time we hung out. Which is awesome. And clearly your new insulin system is really helping you out. 

Andrew Ricewrote:

Apples and oranges, though, with anything in J-tree. I've climbed a bunch of 14,000+ peaks. The crux of those is always endurance and, frankly, ability to suffer a bit. Nothing you need to do.

But if you can muster the stamina to climb Ryan Mountain up and back without collapsing in a diabetic coma you are in FAR better shape than you were last time we hung out. Which is awesome. And clearly your new insulin system is really helping you out. 

Yeah, what he said!

And super ditto on the insulin system! That's a game changer, maybe???

Best, H.

Andrew Ricewrote:

Apples and oranges, though, with anything in J-tree. I've climbed a bunch of 14,000+ peaks. The crux of those is always endurance and, frankly, ability to suffer a bit. Nothing you need to do.

But if you can muster the stamina to climb Ryan Mountain up and back without collapsing in a diabetic coma you are in FAR better shape than you were last time we hung out. Which is awesome. And clearly your new insulin system is really helping you out. 

I suffer!  I SUFFER!  I suffer every day for my art.  

For one, I put up with you guys! And the continual references to “just a toprope “.  I also suffer with Tony.  And there’s heat, ice and windstorms here.  This life is pretty much only suffering.

But right now I gotta run into Stater Bros for some popcorn.  Gonna put off more suffering until tomorrow. It’s movie/steak night.