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What are the top 5 Trad destinations in the U.S.A?

Original Post
The Weavers · · High Falls NY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 10

What are the top 5 Trad destinations in the United States of America in your opinion?

Here is mine:

1. Yosemite

2. Gunks

3. Joshua Tree

4. Red Rocks

5. Indian Creek

Lyndsy Gallins · · MOCKSVILLE, NC · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Freemont Canyon 

Short Fall Sean · · Bishop, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 7

1) Yosemite is a bigwall destination; that's different. 

2) The Gunks is a myth perpetuated by NYC gym climbers so they can lure westerners to the east coast and harvest their kidneys

3) Joshua Tree is just a silly pile of crumbling boulders

4) Red Rocks doesn't have anything harder than 5.8, and you have to win a blackjack tournament at the BLM Casino to be awarded an entry permit that's good for 69 minutes of climbing.

5) IC is sport climbing on gear

But other than that, good list!! :)

alpinist 47 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Eldo

How about Colorado front range?

Zach Baer · · Bellingham · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5
  1. Tuolumne Meadows (Deserves its own mention!)
  2. Squamish (Yeah, sure, Canada is an independent country)
  3. Yosemite Valley
    (Only if you like aiders and pin scars)
  4. Index
    (Better cragging than the valley, but so hard)
  5. Joshua Tree or Red Rocks (Depending on if you like pebble wrestling or choss)
Michael Atlas · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85

Dont come to NC.  There's no good climbing, that's for sure

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

I'm kind of surprised nobody said Eldorado Canyon.

That certainly belongs.

alpinist 47 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
Steve Williamswrote:

I'm kind of surprised nobody said Eldorado Canyon.

That certainly belongs.

I did

Eliot Hack · · New England · Joined May 2020 · Points: 1

Personally I think cathedral ledge should be up there, trad all the way from 5.6 to 5.14a 

W K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 167

Little falls, NY. It's the yosemite of the east!

Colton Lawson · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 22
Steve Williamswrote:

I'm kind of surprised nobody said Eldorado Canyon.

Eldo is choss. Change my mind.

alpinist 47 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
Colton Lawsonwrote:

Eldo is choss. Change my mind.

Nah

Maverik · · Barre, VT · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Just one human's opinion:

I never got the Gunks thing.  Climbed there for years because it was local (Albany, NY) and did most of the "great" routes through 5.12 and boulders through V11.

Every time I traveled to NH or the Adirondacks (High Peaks) I thought the climbing was so much better.  Heck the bouldering in CT was better.

I guess I find the rock and routes in the Gunks uninspiring...and the atmosphere is not my cup of tea.  It makes sense why people from NYC like it...they don't have many local options.  

If you have the time, I recommend driving past the Gunks and heading toward Keene Valley and experience climbing in nature without crowds and climb on real cracks :)

Side note: often I see photos of Gunks climbs and think wow that looks spectacular!  It never actually looked like that when I was there and on those climbs.

Isaac Gromacki · · Nashotah, WI · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0
Lyndsy Gallinswrote:

Freemont Canyon 

Shhhh, Wyoming blows. Don’t go there...

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

1) RMNP - Lumpy

2) Eldo (I don't mind choss)

3) Black Hills Needles - Devils Tower

4) City of Rocks

5) Little Cottonwood Canyon

Jeff Blockwick · · Longmont · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 30

1) Eldo

2) RMNP - Diamond

3) Indian Creek

4) Vedauwoo

5) Red Rock

Garrett Genereux · · Redmond · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 35
Isaac Gromackiwrote:

Shhhh, Wyoming blows. Don’t go there...

Seriously, I almost blew off the top of the Nautilus yesterday... 

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,822

One way I think about it...is, if you had friends from outside the US who were climbers, and they wanted to hit the US for a trad climbing roadtrip, where would you send them?

Yosemite.

Tetons.

Wind Rivers.

RMNP.

Probably toss up between Joshua Tree/Red Rocks to round out the list.  

Roadside or long approaches might be a discriminator...

Maybe toss Indian Creek/Moab in there.  

Cochise/Tuscon.

Never been, but, Devil's Lake might make the list, depending on the grade range.  Ditto Cathedral/Whitehorse.  I'd probably count the Gunks too.  Eldo.  COR and LCC/BCC if could base out of SLC for awhile.

Be nothing wrong with a tour of NC crags...Looking Glass, Stone, Rumbling Bald.

Nice to have choices....

W K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 167
Colton Lawsonwrote:

Eldo is choss. Change my mind.

The booty is solid

Mike Morin · · Glen, NH · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,350

There's no top 5, there's a class of crags/areas that are special for their own unique attributes, with the complete list being greater than 5, but less than 50. Missing from the list are several areas that reside along the Appalachian Mountain chain.

Short Fall Sean · · Bishop, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 7

I'm gonna let you all in on a little secret called the "High Sierra". It's nearly as cool as RMNP but you have to deal with better scenery, better rock, and better weather. Maybe doesn't hold a candle to, uh (checks notes) Little Falls NY, but it's pretty cool!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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