Post Other (Not Awesome) Trad Videos Here

This thread isn't about poorly edited vids, it's a showcase of poor climbing/incompetent trad leads.  Nothing wrong with the above vid that I saw.  Sadly there haven't been any monumentally entertaining ones for a bit. 

zosowrote:

This thread isn't about poorly edited vids, it's a showcase of poor climbing/incompetent trad leads.  Nothing wrong with the above vid that I saw.  Sadly there haven't been any monumentally entertaining ones for a bit. 

If you don't see ANYTHING wrong in the video I posted...well, I don't know what to tell you.  It certainly ain't the worst I've seen, but far from unproblematic. 

zosowrote:

This thread isn't about poorly edited vids, it's a showcase of poor climbing/incompetent trad leads.  Nothing wrong with the above vid that I saw.  Sadly there haven't been any monumentally entertaining ones for a bit. 

I can't believe you've disrespected Billy like this

Paul Lwrote:

Jeezus... those last two lead videos were stressful. 

When Billy weighted that first piece....    

By first piece are you talking about the grass cause...damn.

This Rumbling Bald vid isn't so bad. Seems like the leader is a competent climber and knows how to evaluate gear-- though it was probably a mistake to not place the .75 at the first placement; then he could have used the .5 at his second placement and not overcammed the .75. But he placed what looked like a good nut just above that. I thought he was placing the nut so he could work on getting the .75 out but then he just kept going. I think he may have thought the .75 while overcammed was still too shallow to rely upon for protection, which isn't a crazy thing to think. Then he placed the yellow C3 is questionable rock, just to the right of a block with a chalk X on it-- again my eyebrows were raised when he didn't seem to check on the rock at all, but maybe he's been there before and already had an opinion beforehand, it's hard to tell. 

The route looks very nice!

SethGwrote:

This Rumbling Bald vid isn't so bad. Seems like the leader is a competent climber and knows how to evaluate gear-- though it was probably a mistake to not place the .75 at the first placement; then he could have used the .5 at his second placement and not overcammed the .75. But he placed what looked like a good nut just above that. I thought he was placing the nut so he could work on getting the .75 out but then he just kept going. I think he may have thought the .75 while overcammed was still too shallow to rely upon for protection, which isn't a crazy thing to think. Then he placed the yellow C3 is questionable rock, just to the right of a block with a chalk X on it-- again my eyebrows were raised when he didn't seem to check on the rock at all, but maybe he's been there before and already had an opinion beforehand, it's hard to tell. 

The route looks very nice!

It's a stellar route for the grade!  It's 5.7 and follows a continuous crack system for 80 feet.  

My assessment:  The first piece, a 0.5, looks undercammed.  I've climbed this route a couple times, and I'm pretty sure a 0.75 fits much better there.  Then he gets the 0.75 stuck and plops in a nut above it in a nearly parallel crack.  The nut is probably okay, but he should have clipped that 0.75 as well...it's already stuck, not much fear of it walking at that point.  Then he runs it out into DEFINITE decking territory (especially if that nut pulls) and places a marginal yellow c3 in less than optimal rock, passing up several larger options.  Then he struggles with an obviously poor choice of a 0.4 higher up and just foregoes a placement...he was jamming for God's sake!  He placed 3 pieces in 80 feet, none of which were bomber.  And sure, people run out easy terrain all the time, but he's not doing it because it's far below his limit...

You are basically saying the same stuff I said but with a lot less benefit for doubt!

Although I didn't realize he was in groundfall range when he placed the yellow C3 and I thought he did not forgo the final piece entirely but instead moved it lower and clipped it out of camera range.

Definitely much room for improvement.

I would have clipped the .75 and let my follower curse me out. Dude seemed pretty run out too, but was climbing confidently so meh.

The first pitch just seems like N00b fumbling. The second pitch made me cringe a couple times.

edit: Just realized everyone thought I was rickrolling. Here's the video:

Jordan Duncanwrote:

The first pitch just seems like N00b fumbling. The second pitch made me cringe a couple times.

Youtube

I can't believe I watched the whole thing. Truly painful in almost every respect.

Knees weak, arms are heavy, there’s vomit on his daisy already.

pt1: https://youtu.be/Ul6mTlidHIA

Pt2:

Adam blocwrote:

Knees weak, arms are heavy, there’s vomit on his daisy already.

pt1: https://youtu.be/Ul6mTlidHIA

Pt2:

We're back boys!!

I know there are a million thing here...but what the hell, the cam abuse on the 4 at the end? Grabbing the lobes and pulling upwards to bump it? Wtf??

Same channel as I posted from earlier. In some ways it’s better. In a lot of ways it’s worse...

Auden Alsop wrote:

*watches Reel Rock 7 once*

Reckon this cat knows what happens to dynema in factor 1 falls?

That Bedtime for Bonzo guy is terrible at placing gear. Like, really bad. But at least he uses the crack to climb!

SethGwrote:

That Bedtime for Bonzo guy is terrible at placing gear. Like, really bad. But at least he uses the crack to climb!

Like I said. There’s better. But a lot worse

Jordan Duncanwrote:

The first pitch just seems like N00b fumbling. The second pitch made me cringe a couple times.

edit: Just realized everyone thought I was rickrolling. Here's the video:

The biggest problem with that video was that she didn't set the nut. It seemed like a decent placement if she had given it a few good yanks.

There were a few spots where she placed a bad piece, and then took it out. I don't really mind that--she clearly knew they were bad pieces and acted accordingly. That will fix itself as she becomes more familiar with her gear.

It also seemed like she had enough climbing experience that the movement was easy for her. Maybe she didn't use the crack to climb in some cases, but she didn't really need to.

Overall, not the carnage I'm looking for when I come to this thread. Just newbies being newbies.

grade a shit show right here folks

Benj84wrote:

grade a shit show right here folks

Did that man just untie at the top of the pitch without an anchor, THREAD HIS ROPE THROUGH AN OLD RUSTY PITON AND LOWER OFF IT? Wow.

This is why I feel the “leader shouldn’t fall” mentality is good for many new leaders.  I feel like it prevents a lot of death in our sport. Though certainly not a substitute for mentorship, I feel like it helps people live long enough to realize their crazy stupid mistakes and make fewer of them once they start climbing grades where they might fall. “Leader doesn’t fall” doesn’t prevent crazy lowering/rapping accidents though...

Matt Bwrote:

Did that man just untie at the top of the pitch without an anchor, THREAD HIS ROPE THROUGH AN OLD RUSTY PITON AND LOWER OFF IT? Wow.

This is why I feel the “leader shouldn’t fall” mentality is good for many new leaders.  I feel like it prevents a lot of death in our sport. Though certainly not a substitute for mentorship, I feel like it helps people live long enough to realize their crazy stupid mistakes and make fewer of them once they start climbing grades where they might fall. “Leader doesn’t fall” doesn’t prevent crazy lowering/rapping accidents though...

They have discovered the most dangerous discipline. It’s free soloing, but with rope drag.