Favorite Cams

Smallest to largest:

Z4's #0 to #2 & ball nuts - >black totem through red totem - > C4 UL #3 &4 - > C4 #5 and #6 2018 version

Michael Atlas wrote:

Smallest to largest:

Z4's #0 to #2 & ball nuts - >black totem through red totem - > C4 UL #3 &4 - > C4 #5 and #6 2018 version

Why the older c4 for the big cams?

Yukon Cornelius wrote:

Why the older c4 for the big cams?

Shoot, I stand corrected.  Not the older version, the new ones with the trigger keepers.  The trigger keepers are nice and the 30g savings per cam top it off.  

Michael Atlas wrote:

Smallest to largest:

Z4's #0 to #2 & ball nuts - >black totem through red totem - > C4 UL #3 &4 - > C4 #5 and #6 2018 version

Red totem is the same size as a BD 1, so you're missing a #2 size in there.

Double -stand corrected.  Black totem through orange totem.  Sorry, off day I suppose

While we're talking about favorite cams, anyone else not like the redesign of the Camalot C4s?  I don't like what they did with the trigger (less grip on them from my feel and not as comfy) and I hate what they did with the thumb press area.  They added a bigger ridge of plastic with a sharp radius where your thumb rests and it digs in to the gap between the first two pads of the thumb. It presses on some nerve there in my thumb and it legit hurts when you have to pull hard on the trigger.  Never had this issue with the older gen of Camalots so I'm glad I still have them. 

Just did a back to back test, they seem super similar to me. I tried as hard as I could but couldn't get either of them to hurt my thumb at all. 

Andrew Rice wrote:

DMM offsets are not "softer metal." They're just a slightly different shape.

My own rec on stoppers would be DMM Wallnuts and, then, a set of DMM offsets. Re. the offset thing, a lot depends on where you climb. I climb a lot at J-tree and Tahquitz. Both places eat up the offset nuts. Never had one get stuck.

J-tree, in particular, also loves Totems. Their ability to adjust to flared cracks is unrivaled. 

Well, you’re wrong 

BD stoppers are aluminum while the dmm offsets are an alloy. 
here’s some info outdoorgearlab.com/topics/c…

Tim M wrote:

Well, you’re wrong 

BD stoppers are aluminum while the dmm offsets are an alloy.
here’s some info outdoorgearlab.com/topics/c…

You ever handled pure aluminum? It's very soft. Aluminum alloys are made by adding other metals in small percentages to harden aluminum up while keeping its good qualities. Both DMM and BD nuts are made from an aluminum alloy, though. Almost nothing is made from pure aluminum. Not aluminum foil. Not aluminum cans. Most certainly not climbing nuts. 

If you really want to argue, I own both and have used them extensively. The DMMs don't wear more, or gouge or any of the other things that would happen if they were softer. 

Tim M wrote:

Well, you’re wrong 

BD stoppers are aluminum while the dmm offsets are an alloy. 
here’s some info outdoorgearlab.com/topics/c…

That source doesn't say anything about that

Tim M wrote:

Well, you’re wrong 

BD stoppers are aluminum while the dmm offsets are an alloy. 
here’s some info outdoorgearlab.com/topics/c…

You know that an the offsets are an aluminum alloy, right? It's say it

I thought this was thread was about cams. New trad climber here. I have friends and c4s so that's all I know. Don't really have a preference. Although the friends are slightly bigger at some sizes, which can be useful.

Erik Strand wrote:

You know that an the offsets are an aluminum alloy, right? It's say it

yup, its a softer alloy

Don't forget that anodizing changes the hardness of the surface of the nut. Also different heat treating changes hardness.
The alloy is only one factor in considering the softness.
That said, I just got some Wild Country nuts and they seem excessively hard and I'm having a hard time getting them to set in gunks quartzite in non perfect scenarios. They don't bite at all. But they're also brand new and super smooth. I just replaced my rack of WC non anodized nuts from the 90s that I lost :( so they were very textured by now. 

gtluke wrote:

That said, I just got some Wild Country nuts and they seem excessively hard and I'm having a hard time getting them to set in gunks quartzite in non perfect scenarios. They don't bite at all. But they're also brand new and super smooth. I just replaced my rack of WC non anodized nuts from the 90s that I lost :( so they were very textured by now. 

Dude:  I had the same thought on the new WC nuts being a little bit harder. I still have a pretty good number of the old non-anodized WC Rocks that place really well in granite, even Lumpy weird flares, along with the DMM offsets. But I used a couple as a bail anchor, and my buddy dropped the #5, i had to replace with new, and they aren't the same. 

If you have enough money, black through orange totem + larger C4s seems to be ideal. I do not, so I do a single set of black-yellow and use X4s and C4s for the rest. 

anyone want to buy the rest of my cams? I'm selling out. I decided to be exclusive to passive pro in order to slow myself down.

ulmc blue $25

ulmc grey $30

But I'm keeping all of the C3's because they belong to Dr. Garon Coriz.

we lost a good one.

Tyler Newcomb wrote: Where can these mythical pieces be found?

I have some older TCU's I would let go for 20 each if you shoot me an email. 

c3's for rent. They were last placed by a good man who died in New Mexico. They are literally the most important metal and nylon that I own in my life. Who feels like Venmo'ing a trusted MP seller?

grey and blue ULMC sold for $15 each with Photons

#formatmylife

HAS ANYBODY MENTIONED BLACK TOTEMS?