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Favorite Cams


Original Post
Tyler Newcomb · · Burlington · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 86

What cams are your favorites and why? I finally have enough money to slowly add to the rack again. 

M Alexander · · SLO, CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 21

Totems -> Metolius -> C4/X4

I think most people would probably swap C4s and Mastercams in order, but the combination of weight and narrowness of the head on the Metolius, especially in the smaller sizes, make me reach for them first every time. 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Do you climb with anyone experienced who leads trad? Seems like that would be the place to start asking.

Justin Veenhuis · · Ferndale, MI · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 101

I researched for a long time before I bought my C4s. Cant beat the range per cam plus theres a matched set from prettys small to damn big. Only thing that beats the range as far as I know is link cams. I think I still have a doc with comparisons, Ill email it to you if you want. 

Justin Veenhuis · · Ferndale, MI · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 101

Also the guide books in the States usually reference BDs. Easy enogh to convert but it is nice when it says C4#2 and you have that exact one

SeƱor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
bruno-cx wrote: Black Totems & Pink Tricams.

Someone must ONLY climb narrow finger cracks. 

Dunder . · · Bakersfield ca · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Generally with the small stuff. I go with single axle units, totems, totem basics, aliens, C3's. I like C4's.75 and up.

Everett · · Nevada · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 25
bruno-cx wrote: Black Totems & Pink Tricams.

Pink Totem beats both of those.

Dr Strangelove · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 30

Og style Aliens

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 661

I usually rack up with 10 black totems...

But seriously, Black Diamond C4s for thin hands and larger sizes.  I like Totem Basics (Aliens) for the small gear.

Peter J · · Davis, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 145

C4s if you're gonna be climbing splitters/whipping all over them/putting them through the ringer. Totems for all around versatility, funky granite placements, or just rich people who just want to flaunt their cash. Mastercams are a nice, lightweight, affordable option for the finger sizes, but they compromise durability for the light weight design. etc.
Essentially, just do your research and buy what is best for what you need them for! Different pros and cons with different cams.

Taylor Lapeyre · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 179

C4 Ultralights in fists, hands, and fingers. The new aliens for thin fingers to tips.

My "peace of mind" piece is the red alien, which I bring and place on pretty much every pitch. Probably my favorite cam out there.

grog m · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

C4/X4

Glenn Sweeney · · San Francisco, CA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

I recently got to place a few of WC’s new friends, and I loved them. They feel like a C4, but with many small details slightly refined. Nicer trigger action, two options for sling length, and no real sacrifice in weight, range, or rating. I’m now preferring them over C4s for the future.

And of course totems.

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 286

Metolius master cams 00-8 here.

Zach Holt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 100

1. 10 dollar ones
2. 15 dollar ones
3. 20 dollar ones 

peter heekin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 116

Metolius for small. BD for big.

Alan Coon · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

Let’s not forget about dmm as well folks. Dragon cams are pretty fantastic. 

Tyler Newcomb · · Burlington · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 86
FrankPS wrote: Do you climb with anyone experienced who leads trad? Seems like that would be the place to start asking.

I'm not exactly a beginner, I've got quite a few trad pitches under my belt and I feel comfortable on trad. But I've only climbed with other's gear and it's always been C4s. I was wondering if any are more highly recommended.

Tyler Newcomb · · Burlington · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 86
Zach Holt wrote: 1. 10 dollar ones
2. 15 dollar ones
3. 20 dollar ones 
Where can these mythical pieces be found?
Tyler Newcomb · · Burlington · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 86
Justin Veenhuis wrote: I researched for a long time before I bought my C4s. Cant beat the range per cam plus theres a matched set from prettys small to damn big. Only thing that beats the range as far as I know is link cams. I think I still have a doc with comparisons, Ill email it to you if you want. 

 I'll pm you my email

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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