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What pro climber has the most fun?

Original Post
Porter Archibald · · Northern Utah · Joined May 2020 · Points: 349

As I've watched climbing videos on YouTube and such I've noticed that unfortunately, lots of pros don't seem like they're having lots of fun. That might not be a great way to describe it but I think lots of them take it very seriously (I mean c'mon, it's their job). This is my list of pros that *seem* like they're having the most fun

1. Pete Whittaker

2. Cedar Wright

3. Tom Randall

4. Jacopo Larcher

5. Adam Ondra

Spencer Barrack · · San Diego, CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

6. Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll

Rocrates · · The Forum · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 15

Will Stanhope and it isn’t close. See Youtube video “As A Guide”

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LE61cvEsU10 

Buck Rogers · · West Point, NY · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 240

Hazel Findlay!

She's so awesome!

Buck Rogers · · West Point, NY · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 240
Rocrateswrote:

Will Stanhope and it isn’t close. See Youtube video “As A Guide”

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LE61cvEsU10 

Jesus.  What's up with the extreme close ups?

Cameraman needs to get LASIK or something.

Rocrates · · The Forum · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 15
Buck Rogerswrote:

Jesus.  What's up with the extreme close ups?

Cameraman needs to get LASIK or something.

It’s tasteful

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Alex Lowe answered this question decades ago— “the best climber” 

Nol H · · Vermont · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 2,310
Spencer Barrackwrote:

6. Sean Villanueva O’Driscol

Adding him also requires Nico Favresse by default

"There was also a birthday party on the wall. Sean turned 36, and all three climbers crowded into one portaledge for a celebration, replete with popcorn and a jam session.

Nico says, laughing, 'As a present we gave him some cannabis tea and some aphrodisiac powders to put in his breakfast."

https://www.outdoorjournal.com/news-2/belgian-beasts-free-1200-meter-route-patagonia/

Seth Bleazard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 714
Spencer Barrackwrote:

6. Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll

Switch that to #1

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 441

I don't think I've ever seen a video of Brooke Rabatou where she didn't have a huge smile on her face.  She seems to really enjoy what she does.  

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,026
Kai Larsonwrote:

I don't think I've ever seen a video of Brooke Rabatou where she didn't have a huge smile on her face.  She seems to really enjoy what she does.  

True. Also, how did Ondra make the list? He’s always on the cusp of blowing a fuse. 

Jaxon Stuhr · · Santa Barbara, CA · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 47

https://youtu.be/tOIr1An3Nvk

It is undoubtedly Sean and Nico

Victor K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 180
Creed Archibaldwrote:

True. Also, how did Ondra make the list? He’s always on the cusp of blowing a fuse. 

I've been watching his videos over the last few years, and I'd say he's having the most fun while he's actually climbing. He's much less fun (just) off the rock.

Cutler Jensen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0

I would probably say my favorite climber Peter Croft or Adam Oundra also

Seth Bleazard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 714

Jacob Cook

Ron O · · middle of nowhere, southern… · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Especially in the '90s I hung with a lot of pro climbers. I suppose I could include myself as a guide and the recipient of a lot of free gear.

Two others struck me as true fun hogs. As mentioned Alex Lowe, and someone I referred to in an article as a "peripatetic super guide". After Charlie Fowler read that he asked me about it and I told him that it was a typo. It was supposed to say a "very pathetic and stupid guy".

Charlie and I were friends since his first week in Boulder in '75. More than 20 years later we would put up yet another route with the exception  that Charlie would eventually choose it as his favorite climb in "50 Favorite Climbs" as much for the fun we had as for the quality of the route. We cracked each other up for days on end, and it was so nice to try the line again without the weeks of rain we sat through in '92.

A few years later I saw Alex Lowe interviewed about Great Sail Peak on Good Morning America. They talked about snowmobiling to the peak with the help of Inuit guides and the dumbshit interviewer asked him if the Inuit guided them up the mountain as well.

 

I made a mental note to tell Alex how he had missed a prime opportunity; how he should have said, "Yeah those Inuit are magnificent climbers. They were making cams and nuts out of whale bone and walrus tusks hundreds of years ago." 

I saw him a few weeks later at OR in SLC. We passed each other going opposite ways on the escalator and slapped hands and I said, "Wanna catch you about something."

I never saw him (or Dave) ever again.

If treading the edge is the way to have fun then watch your step.

ChrisMurphy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

Nick Bullock

Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 60

conversely, which "professional" climber is a serial killer?

MattH · · CO mostly · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,401
Mark Pilatewrote:

Alex Lowe answered this question decades ago— “the best climber” 

Changing the inflection on that expression is still my favorite climber joke/dig at trad dads.

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260
Buck Rogerswrote:

Hazel Findlay!

She's so awesome!

I think she might be my vote too. That Mongolia trip from the last RR wasn't really all that much hard, cutting-edge climbing, seem they were mostly gooffing around & having fun. She's a pretty chill vibe in general, while remaining a badass climber.

Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643


Redynswrote:

conversely, which "professional" climber is a serial killer?




If we're just guessing? Jason Kehl could totally be a serial killer. Really cool dude too!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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