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Post Other (Not Awesome) Trad Videos Here
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This thread needs some reviving and I'm pretty sure I found a new everything bagel. I won't give everything away but I'll tease you with the prospect of a first time trad leader setting a toprope off a single quick link to run laps on a popular approach route. The wonky terminology they use may just become a meme I can't let go of. Comments have been disabled, but based on his viewer message on youtube, you can imagine that people did not go easy on this group.
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Woah, how NOT to learn how to trad climb. It's all right there. Clipping the draw straight to the wire loop of those BD, the epic take right on the first very high piece of gear, unclear and unecessary communication... It says in the description on YT it's his (their atually) first trad climb. Scary for all the wrong reasons... EDIT: Wrote that too fast - I hadn't yet got to the bit were a bail biner is set on what is clearly a textbook rap anchor with tow nice round huge rap rings.... what a beauty. |
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Oh god, I wasn't prepared for him to grab a clump of grass and weight it while free soloing. Some of the stuff he does is so bad that it wraps around and becomes good. Like when he "tests" the piece at the beginning before weighting it by... wiggling it back and forth? That causes it to walk back in and makes his shallow flaring placement much better. That might have saved his life. The text is hilarious. "This shows a climbing technique using hands in a crack" while he tries to pry the crack open like elevator doors. And explaining why he clipped a new-looking locking biner to the rap rings before even clipping himself to the rap rings (as a bail biner for others, apparently). It looks like a neat climb. |
T Legowrote: This might be the scariest video on the internet. I feel like we just witnessed a man extremely close to death, while the subject had no idea what was going on. |
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Solid find T Lego |
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That video, and y'alls comments made my day way better. Anyone know the route? I'd like the FA to rename it in this man's honor. |
F Loydwrote: Block Route at Stone Mountain. It's used as an approach to the super popular Great Arch route. If he would've kept going to finish the route, he would've hit like 40 feet of runnout after those bolts and a 5.8 mantle move. I was morbidly upset that he didn't keep going. |
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This is the criminally hilarious credit roll on the “Stone Mountain day part II” mentioned at the end of the vid  Seems the vultures I encounter there are even smarter than I first thought! |
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“Billy’s down there waving in the blue shirt” with his hand off the belay. |
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Here's another one. This guy gives Billy a run for his money. |
Rob Deaneswrote: Great video to illustrate why practicing placing protection on the ground is so important before ever getting on a trad route. That route in particular looks like it has fiddly protection in a lot of places and is by no means a straightforward route for a noob to get on. Most of his placements are shallow and he doesn’t double up any of them. Considering his inexperience I didn’t think it was helpful that his partner actually told him not to place anything down low. Granted it was easy, nearly fourth class climbing, but it’s still the climber’s prerogative to use it where he wants. His partner should have been encouraging him to put in more pro the whole way, but probably didn’t know any better himself. I think sometimes the gym/sport experience conditions people to accept a single piece as being fine. So this guy got one after another dicey piece and climbed like it was ok. It didn’t look like he had any longer slings to equalize with, but in a way that worked out fine because he wasn’t even thinking about that. He wouldn’t have used them anyway. His rack also seemed pretty limited. He could have done more with some larger cams at hand. I know a lot of people hate tricams but some of those shallow cracks and pockets would take them really well. |
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That Billy video is terrifying. |
E Kwrote: No shit, I don't know how the hell y'all watch this stuff, that lead was spookier than Free Solo |
Rob Deaneswrote: The placement he tries to get around 4:05...wtf is that protecting you from exactly? Wowza |
Steve Climberwrote: These videos are like Free Solo, but with less climbing skill. The difficulty of the routes is adjusted down to the skill of the subjects, but the subjects don't know they're free soloing because they're using placebo gear. |
David Kwrote: That's it. I'm officially stealing the expression "placebo gear" to describe all my shittier pro, as well as describe any shit placements I may observe from other leaders in the wild. |
Rob Deaneswrote: If you look closely at the beginning, it looks like the belayer also has the rope backwards in the tube. |
Franck Veewrote: Yes, but placebos have been proven to actually have an effect. |
Long Rangerwrote: But it would have a similar affect, right? The mental idea that you are safe causes the physical state to be calmer and you climb better? |
