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Which pack for Denali?

Alex Calder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

To add to the discussion, since I havent seen the pack I used on this post.

The Lowe Alpine expedition 75:95 worked great for me on a 2-man Denali trip- although I didnt camp at 17k and never did a no-sled single carry. Its a good alternative to the 75L thats too small and the cumdumpster pack mentioned above.

Daniel Lewis · · Nashville, TN · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 25

I exploded C5-C7 in high school (vertebrae AND discs) and had a bi-level fusion. I still get bad between shoulder blades pain. I assume that means I need a pack that shifts more to the hips than shoulders?

I’ve read reviews that the Gregory Denali does this better than my Mountain Hardwear BMG 105 (which sucks and really hurts—terrible hip belt). Osprey Xenith 105 looks attractive as well, cuz I love the osprey suspension. Does anyone have any insights specific to my injury as to what pack might be most appropriate?

I’m doing the WB with AAI this May.

Thanks!

Daniel

Tony Yeary wrote: If you are pulling a sled, then a 75 or 85 liter pack should be just fine. You want a pack that is soft in suspension( back packing as apposed to technical climbing)and is relatively lightweight. I have an Osprey Argon 85 that I like very much. Great load hauler at a reasonable weight. What Jared had to say up thread is spot on, worth remembering. I use CCW packs for technical climbing, but Denali and Aconcagua, by the normal or regular routes, are best served with comfortable backpack verses a technical climbing pack. Look at what packs guide companies recommend for their guided trip. Dana Designs Terraplane, Osprey Aether 90, Gregory Denali Pro, Arc’teryx Bora 85-90 Mountain Hardware BMG 105 are examples listed by AAI.


Bahaha Literally snorted when I read this.

Daniel Lewis · · Nashville, TN · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 25

Also, holy crap this McHales are high!! $900 base, or double that for full Spectra.

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5

In the heavy hauler category I would look at the Exped Expedition 80. It is also designed to hook a sled if you need this kind of stuff.
Anyway, you have more courage than me, I don't even own a backpack bigger than 40 liters and when it is fully loaded I already find it super heavy :(

Daniel Lewis · · Nashville, TN · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 25

I’m 5’10”, 150lbs, 29” waist, 38” chest btw. CANNOT have something making me lean into the load at all or the pain is baaaad.

Skibo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 5

If you're interested, I have a like-new Dana Design Astralplane for sale.  Should be listed in the For Sale section.  Lots of cush. https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113785822/fs-dana-designs-astralplane-pack-300

Mitch Murariu · · Wilsonville Oregon · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 55

Can I use for Denali my Black Diamond 55L ..? If I pack correctly is like 65 pounds. I can’t imagine carrying more stuff than that.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55
Mitch Murariu wrote:

Can I use for Denali my Black Diamond 55L ..? If I pack correctly is like 65 pounds. I can’t imagine carrying more stuff than that.

Bulk is as big a deal as weight - can you fit everything for Denali into 55 liters?  I'm going to say no without even asking what all you're taking.

Mitch Murariu · · Wilsonville Oregon · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 55
SinRopa wrote:

Going guided?  No.  

Unguided?  Probably still no.

So I have no choice then to go 75L Black Diamond. Thank you. 

Mitch Murariu · · Wilsonville Oregon · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 55
Chris Rice wrote:

Bulk is as big a deal as weight - can you fit everything for Denali into 55 liters?  I'm going to say no without even asking what all you're taking.

Thank you Chris.

I just hate big backpacks, but I decided I will get the Black Diamond 75L.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,793

I used a Dana Design Astralplane on several trips to Denali and its shorter siblings.  Carried well with weight. 

I like BD packs...but...I dislike the Mission series.  Can't stand the moving shoulder straps and loaded down, don't seem to carry as well to me.

75L might be a touch on the small side especially for the big, bulky loads on a WB Denali trip.

If you have the opportunity to try a pack in the store, they usually have weight to put into them to see how the carry is.  Do it.  Try 60 to 70 pounds and see how it feels after a few minutes walking around.  Hard thing to suss out in the store but...

Daniel Lewis · · Nashville, TN · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 25

Anyone tried an Osprey Xenith 88/105. I generally like how the Ospreys carry.

Brian Prince · · reno · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 2,893

I used a Mission 55L. Had a pretty monster sled up to 11k then was able to get everything to 14k in only the pack in 2 trips. But on the way down, we still had to double carry to 11k. Only wish I had a bigger pack when going from 11k to airstrip so I didn't have to ski down with a sled. Other than that I'd say the 55L was fine. 

If you're carrying a sled anyway (which everyone does), makes more sense to me to put most of the weight and/or bulky items in that. And if you're skiing, double carrying to 14k is NBD and actually fun. Dragging a sled to 14k is also an option but didn't seem too fun. Some did it.

I didn’t spend a night at 17 but a 55L would certainly be enough for me to do a summit trip from 14, stopping at 17, even if it took a week. 

Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0
Brian in SLC wrote:

... I like BD packs...but...I dislike the Mission series.  Can't stand the moving shoulder straps and loaded down, don't seem to carry as well to me...

FYI the 75 does not have the moving shoulder straps. I have a 75 and I find it carries fine, but I use it for hauling to alpine crags or carrying a lot of gear on ice approaches. I suppose I haven’t hauled a heavy load for multiple days but the suspension has been fine for my habitus and uses. 

I also have a BD moving strap system on my ski touring avy bag and find it carries well too; I have nothing negative to say about the “swing arm” suspension. Not sure if it BD has multiple moving cable systems and this is dif than the small mission series. 

Jonathan S · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 261
Daniel Lewis wrote:

Anyone tried an Osprey Xenith 88/105. I generally like how the Ospreys carry.

I have the Xenith 88 that I plan to use on Denali. It's a capable pack and carries fine. I used it on a 3-day winter trip last year. I was curious about the Gregory Denali, but I couldn't find it in any store near me to test, while the Xenith 88 was at REI. I also figure that 88 L is enough volume for me; if I can't fit my stuff in it (plus sled), I am probably over-packing.

Mitch Murariu · · Wilsonville Oregon · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 55

null I’m getting confused, what exactly I carry in my 55L mission backpack on Denali trip....?

Sleeping bag, Parka, Goretex, Jetboil, gloves, socks, etc. personal belongings. Food and others are carrying on sled, and Air Taxi aloud only 125 pounds per climber so ..? Help me out here.

Also down jacket, rope, carabiners and ice axes are all external use so...what I’m putting in my back pack..?

The picture of the backpack has everything on it from medical kit to cream for the face, and is 45 pounds, with the exception of food so if I purchase 75L backpack what do I put in...? ??

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,793

Most folks don't drag a sled from 11k to 14k, or, from 14k to 17k.  So, you have to use your pack for "food and others" between those camps, or, double (or triple) carry.  And, if its hot and sunny on any of those carry daze, you'll likely be lightly dressed and your down jacket, overboots, mittens, etc, will be in the pack.  Amazing how bulky that stuff is.

Usually not a deal on the way up, as, you'll likely double carry for acclimitization anyhow.  But, when you're gathering up your stuff to bail either due to weather, conditions, or just being successful, you might not want to double carry down too.  Motivation for chewin' up that terrain twice instead of green grass, burgers and beer, will be low low low.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55
Mitch Murariu wrote:

null I’m getting confused, what exactly I carry in my 55L mission backpack on Denali trip....?

Sleeping bag, Parka, Goretex, Jetboil, gloves, socks, etc. personal belongings. Food and others are carrying on sled, and Air Taxi aloud only 125 pounds per climber so ..? Help me out here.

Also down jacket, rope, carabiners and ice axes are all external use so...what I’m putting in my back pack..?

The picture of the backpack has everything on it from medical kit to cream for the face, and is 45 pounds, with the exception of food so if I purchase 75L backpack what do I put in...? ??

I realize gear has come a long way since I did it in 1990.  I'm also a big guy so my clothes, parka, sleeping bag etc were large and extra large but I don't see how 55L is going to work without having to tie stuff all over the outside of your pack at times.  Even on a technical route and moving fast I don't think you'll be happy with something that small.  But hey more power to you if you can get everything in there.

Mitch Murariu · · Wilsonville Oregon · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 55
Brian in SLC wrote:

Most folks don't drag a sled from 11k to 14k, or, from 14k to 17k.  So, you have to use your pack for "food and others" between those camps, or, double (or triple) carry.  And, if its hot and sunny on any of those carry daze, you'll likely be lightly dressed and your down jacket, overboots, mittens, etc, will be in the pack.  Amazing how bulky that stuff is.

Usually not a deal on the way up, as, you'll likely double carry for acclimitization anyhow.  But, when you're gathering up your stuff to bail either due to weather, conditions, or just being successful, you might not want to double carry down too.  Motivation for chewin' up that terrain twice instead of green grass, burgers and beer, will be low low low.

Thank you Brian

That will explain the reason. Thank you much.

Mitch

Mitch Murariu · · Wilsonville Oregon · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 55
Chris Rice wrote:

I realize gear has come a long way since I did it in 1990.  I'm also a big guy so my clothes, parka, sleeping bag etc were large and extra large but I don't see how 55L is going to work without having to tie stuff all over the outside of your pack at times.  Even on a technical route and moving fast I don't think you'll be happy with something that small.  But hey more power to you if you can get everything in there.

Thank you Chris....I don’t like to climb like a bulldozer :) and I’m very minimalist on my gear.
Thank you.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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