Free Pitons for worthy recipient

I have met Erik on occasion... He has always been nice

i would also suggest that having those pins could be a burden for most( like Scott )

I really don't think he will profit Financially....he does loan gear out for free if you ask

Peace

Let's just say Erik's rep amongst the valley regulars on the taco was generally less than positive. Never met him so can't personally judge him.

Hi Nick, thanks for your thoughts. Other than mud climbing in Utah which uses beaks and specters (which old dads have very few of)- where else are folks commonly using pitons? Hopefully folks in those areas will step forward and say they are willing to be a community resource, and we can divide all the pitons up and spread them to the appropriate areas. 

For anyone interested in a historical bolt - those things are so cool. Like you will be like, oh man that was cheap, whatever one you get!

Leading a free Yoga class at churchbowl tomorrow 915 am if anyone's around. Woot Woot! E

Message sent!

I love the enthusiasm for this post! ....what we really need in Yosemite is a climber's museum and dedicated climbing exhibit where folks can try climbing just for a few minutes, and climbers can share info with each other about new routes or route changes......Yosemite is basically funded by generous patrons who pick pet projects, so go big! The climbing museum cud lend out all the pitons! Woot Woot! E

Ken Yager (aka chicken skinner) and the YCA have a climber's museum in the valley.

Edit: seems it has moved to Mariposa.

https://www.fresnobee.com/news/california/yosemite/article230721779.html

https://abc7news.com/localish-my-go-to-national-park-service-yosemite/6374676/

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/yosemiteclimbingassn/yosemite-climbing-association-gallery-and-museum

Yeah, Mariposa not really close to the Valley - an hour drive on windy roads. Good thought, but we need something in Mecca, the most important place for Rock Climbing on Earth!

I use pitons regularly for mixed climbing. I have no dog in this fight, but to say that pins are only used in the valley is myopic at best.

Erik Sloanwrote:

Yeah, Mariposa not really close to the Valley - an hour drive on windy roads. Good thought, but we need something in Mecca, the most important place for Rock Climbing on Earth!

Agreed Erik. Wonder why the YCA decided to move it out of Yos Village?

Yeah.. I support Erik and think people are outrageous and mean to him which is some fucking stupid bullying.

That being said, pitons are still used up here in Montana. I would say all over the rockies they are still used, especially beaks. I think there are some areas where iron is actually used more often than in the Valley. Last time I was in the valley (on a free climbing trip) every aid climber I talked to was hyped on hammerless ascents. I think it goes without saying that a hammerless or clean pitch/route is possible, dependent on the use of a hammer durring the FA/fixing/heading. Also leaving the hammer at camp is far more bold than leaving it clipped to the tagbag for when you decide its needed... 

John Pencawrote:

Agreed Erik. Wonder why the YCA decided to move it out of Yos Village?

The Rent is too Damn High

https://youtu.be/rHEitsYJnmw

John we never have had a museum in Yosemite Village. The YCA was trying to get the NPS to give them dedicated space for a museum, but that has not happened. 

Man I hope this thread makes everyone clean out their closets and get their pins (cams, biners, old ropes, power drills, etc.) to the folks that can use them!

BTW - I'm starting to presell my new bigwall select book, The Ultimate Guide this Thursday Jan 21 st - it's coming out so sick! Woot Woot! E

Yosemitebigwall.com

Kalous’ aid rant and pix of PTPP with his shirt off have together put an end to aid climbing.  Those pins will just gather more rust.  The remaining nail-ups will sit dormant until someone retrobolts them into free climbs.  Send Erik your drills - his gets passed around to too many pro climbers - hardly any time left for fixed rope anchor maintenance.  Also - you pithy little twits bullying Erik for a decades old thread on Supertopo need to f’ off and get a life.  In the Valley among actual climbers, a guy with 100+ ascents of El Cap over 25-30 yrs holds way more cred than some nobody / has-been from the climbing forums.

alpinist 47wrote:

greedy?

Nah... Scott can give his old gear away as he wishes

Don't know what your intentions are but you sound jealous or you don't like Erik 

Go bash Erik on another thread

Please do NOT bash Erik on another thread....I recant

Bill Schickwrote:

Kalous’ aid rant and pix of PTPP with his shirt off have together put an end to aid climbing.  Those pins will just gather more rust.  The remaining nail-ups will sit dormant until someone retrobolts them into free climbs.  Send Erik your drills - his gets passed around to too many pro climbers - hardly any time left for fixed rope anchor maintenance.  Also - you pithy little twits bullying Erik for a decades old thread on Supertopo need to f’ off and get a life.  In the Valley among actual climbers, a guy with 100+ ascents of El Cap over 25-30 yrs holds way more cred than some nobody / has-been from the climbing forums.

Fuck yes! 

Lol, it is sort of a dying breed....but being up at the base of the Zodiac yesterday I could feel the pull! .....aid climbing is more work, but man the vistas! That's why I think we should just have a lending library of gear - not many folks are taking up bigwall climbing so no need for everyone to buy more new gear each year.

I always laughed at people talking shit about me online - I mean, if that's what it takes to keep your threads at the top of the page, lol, and getting to climb El Cap 106 times I feel so lucky.....living in the Crystal Vortex for so many years I def have nothing but Love for everyone, maybe even a little for the Yosemite Mafia, haha

106 and counting... Woot woot

Bill Schickwrote:

Kalous’ aid rant and pix of PTPP with his shirt off have together put an end to aid climbing.  Those pins will just gather more rust.  The remaining nail-ups will sit dormant until someone retrobolts them into free climbs.  Send Erik your drills - his gets passed around to too many pro climbers - hardly any time left for fixed rope anchor maintenance.  Also - you pithy little twits bullying Erik for a decades old thread on Supertopo need to f’ off and get a life.  In the Valley among actual climbers, a guy with 100+ ascents of El Cap over 25-30 yrs holds way more cred than some nobody / has-been from the climbing forums.

So a thread from 2018 is "decades old"?  Steve Schneider and Scott Cosgrove are not actual climbers?  Get your facts straight.

I work in an office and can afford climbing gear.  I don’t lead hard climbs.  I would never want to carry anything as heavy as a rack of pitons and certainly don’t want to carry a hammer.  If I didn’t respect the local ethos, I would want to nail those babies into piton scars in the Gunks just to know how sketchy it was to climb the classics the old way.  If all other suitors prove unworthy, let me know.  I can talk to my wife about making room for them in my tiny apartment.  No promises. 

John Pencawrote:

So a thread from 2018 is "decades old"?  Steve Schneider and Scott Cosgrove are not actual climbers?  Get your facts straight.

I don't think Scott was posting on any threads in 2018.